howdy all....ive got an EB 5L....its got extracors, exhaust, cam, HiClone, cold air intake, and K&N filter (element style), worked auto & diff.What would be some advantagous power gains that wont break the bank as im a student. i work at AutoPro, so i do hav access to lotsa stuff....would a pod filter breath better than a standard stlye element filter.....also would bigger injectors help....wats anyones advice on Unichips....ive heard theyll giv an extra 20 horsies....is this s**t or what??

pods/injectors/chips are something id look into maybe when really pulling some power, id be looking at eninge stuff more along lines of heasds/maf/tb, what sizes do the eb's run?
Also if you really want a good programable chip is something you could think about in the future when you've got some engine mods that will require a computer change to make them work at their best.
Cams are such an item, how does it idle?

umm...dusnt idle to bad...i mean it sounds a bit lumpy, but its not of its head or uncontrollable...its got a cam, but i dontknow if the computers being tuned to it...it lacks a bit of midrange power...not very responsive in 3rd gear...

f**k that car must be QUICK off the traffic lights but how is it FUEL WISE
and how much did the diff gears to change?

set of roller rockers

Firstly I would actually think about removing the Hiclone, they don't work in the first place with the type of setup on the EFI V8's and they could actually cause turbulence which will cost you power.

A pod filter really won't give you anything over a K&N panel filter with a decent snorkle like the EL XR8 one. Depending on power you may want to add an extra cold air induction pipe from the front spoiler through the fender and intot he bottom of the airbox. Its a cheap mod which will help if you are producing more than around 160rwkw.

Unichips are fairly expensive (around $1200 installed and tuned) but will give some results. I would be looking more towards a Tweecer (if your EEC is supported), cheaper, far more powerful tuning and you can do the tune (or retune it) yourself if you want saving a lot of money in the long run.

As Disco Frank said, a set of roller rockers would also be a decent idea if they weren't already installed with the cam. After that you need to look at heads and intake as they are holding the engine back big time, but obviously that gets expensive.

i bought the car with the 4.11s in it...the fuel isnt too bad, but not that great either...it sits on bout 2600rpm doin bout 110kms on t he freeway

have a look at my website... the section with all the mods I have done to my XR.... should give you a few idea's on stuff you can do.

Mate, if you are doing 2600rpm at 110k, you DO NOT have 4.11's unless your rear tyres are about 32 inches tall.....the size of an averave 4wd tyre, so knowing Falcons like I do, I think this is highly unlikely. PM me your rear tyre sizes and I can tell you exactly what rear gears are in your car. If you want to get the thing going, throw away the stock heads, they are just junk, and whilst there, the inlet could get thrown as well. If you replace these 2 items, you are on the correct path to horsepower happiness.

i'd like to back up ED XR8 on the pod, i think the stock K&N panel filter will be just as good if not better with a EL XR snorkel, and maybe anouther pipe leading up to it, i got a BMC Panel filter with the EL XR snorkel, you could put a pod inside the airbox, but i wouldn't bother, i have just had this convo with someone, so i'd stay with the panel.

and about the other mods to your car, you might find that your intake system will kill your performance alot on those cars as i have same engine, i'd go get a 70mm MAF and injectors combo, so the maf will be calabrated *spelling*, to the injectors, then get a better intake manifold (upper and lower/ or kit) and a 65mm TB(Throttle body), then you will get a few more kw's, but you will still have your heads holding you back, you will most likly have stock E7 heads or something same as me, i wouldn't reccommend just doing heads i have heard problems with doing head work to these heads and even after alot of money put in them you will never get as much power out of them as say a set of GT40's/GT40P's, or maybe even a set of Edelbrock complete Heads, both your looking at about a grand'ish, and get some 1.72 roller rockers, and you'll be doing alright in the engine department.

talking about chips and stuff, go Tweecer, or maybe if you want unichip or chiptorque or something, but if you want to save money on re-doing the chip everytime you mod your car, do it later on down the track after you've done a few mods, or do all the mods at 1 time so you don't have to re-do it so many times, it's hard when you have a ford auto, you can't do a standalone ECU, and if you put a ecu onto the stock ecu tranny or something could just die, but if your really looking for alot of power go manual with a haltech E11 or something, i was about to put a Wolf 3D unit on before i got NOS but figured out i couldn't coz of the ford auto, untill someone makes a programme for the ford auto, i have heard rumours someone may be doing it but can't let to much out , but the market in australia if not big enough for people to be really interested in making one for it.

FYI nearly all aftermarket computers can be used with fords, auto or manual. On late model cars the stock EEC is left in there because it runs things like the auto, dash, A/C etc, they just use the aftermarket computer to control the engine. I have seen motec, haltech, EMS, wolf all installed on auto falcons without any issues at all, and as I said even with a manula they run the same setup. Anyway, if you can get a tweecer setup, it is more powerful than a lot of aftermarket computers out there and saves you a lot of hassels with rewiring etc.

Id say veeate is about right......
4.11 diff, 0.69:1 gearbox ratio (4th) with 225/50/16 shows 110 km at close enough to 2500rpm. he may have slightly different tyre sizes but that wont make too much of a difference ( +/- 100 rpm)
If it were a 3 speed it would be a different story.

I don't agree with this - My 3:45's rev at about this, maybe slightly lower, so theres no way 4:11's would sit on 2500rpm@110km/hr, especially on a 16 inch tyre.. A mate of mine has 3:9's and his sits up near the 3000rpm mark at 110km/hr, so 4:11's are gonna be slightly higher than this again.

i doubt its go a stock ratio...my mates 5L commodores (poor blokes) have stock diffs probly 3.08 and they do around 1500rpm at avout 100kays

3:23's in the fairmonts sit on about 1900
3:45's in the ghia's/xr's sit on about 2250
3:9's in a mates car sits on about 2800
hence 4:11's should sit around the 3000 mark

Jump underneath the diff, theres probably a tag on the diff that has the ratio on it