Hey guys.

Firstly, my names Matt and I've recently bought myself an EL Fairmont Ghia V8.

It's got a couple of 'go fast bits' added to it

Exhaust, extractors, something called a GT snorkel or something.


Now, I apologise for advance about the way this thread is set out, I'm one of those people who will start typing straight from the thought process - so it might jump from topic to topic.

These cars came out with about 170kw's if i'm right.
This one i've bought has 200,000k's on the clock and has had a rough past year or so (bald tyres, replaced auto with a 2nd hand one).

Generally, it runs well, it revs nicely, idles ok (A/C will shake up the idle a tad) - but I have a few issues and a few questions.


Should the average fuel consumption be at 15l/100ks? It's drinking like a fish!

The car will only ever start if i give it a bit of throttle aswell while cranking - surely this isn't normal for an EFI car?

I hear the auto's in these cars take a disliking to being fitted with a shift kit? I think it would greatly improve the 'luxury' auto, she slugs into gears and loses alot of the torque range.

Do these autos have any common known problems? It'd been replaced with a 2nd hand one which was reco'd 2 years ago, but it feels to me that it's holding gears a bit. (though, I went from a VR Berlina to this, and the accelerator and rev range are much different.)

Is there a few easy mod's (upto 2k) I can do to give it some much needed poke, without sacrificing fuel? (I know.. catch 22.)

I was thinking of going to 3.45:1 at the bum, a shift kit and a 2500 stally - I know the stally and diff gears will greatly lower my economy - but I think these mod's would be the best solution for price.


Basically, I'm a holden man who's just jumped to the other side, and I need as much info and suggestions as possible.

I'd great appreciate any help.

Cheers guys and girls!

Oh, heres a photo

sexc car, as for yor questions

fuel consumpsion is a tad high, but that all depends on what type of drive you do(country or city) also how you drive(grandma style or with a heavy foot)

you shouldnt need to push any petrol when starting the car so their is defanitly a problem their

ive had a shiftkit on my ef fairmont for about 6months now and it seems pretty good, no problems at all

most ford autos die form overheating so getting a transcooler will defanitly prolong the life and condition of the tranny

as for mods id go the lsd with a higher ratio either 3.7, 3.9 or 4.11, which ever suits you best. they will give your car better acceleration and are very fun.

cheers,

Your LSD is already at 3.45.
Start running it on BP ultimate 98 and after a few tank fills the shaking will disappear.
I bought an EL Ghia V8 at 290,000ks and the engine was fantastic after using BP ultimate 98. Auto was a bit of a slug.

My old Ghia V8 had an average of about 10-12 litres per 100ks obviously it will drink a s**t more if you plant your foot.
A good mod that will give you a bit more poke but not too much without other mods is the new flash tune you can get done.

My almost stock 5.0 gets the same consumption around town, driving smoothly. 15/100 sounds about right. You'll get 9-10 on the highway, especially on PULP.

The BTR autos have a 200,000km lifespan on average. It may feel like it's holding gears when in normal (not econ.) mode. The Holden auto calibration probably just feels different than the Ford one. The BTR is definitely a nicer box.

When you find out what is causing the throttle-only start, let me know. Mine has been doing it for 4-5 years now, although I suspect the bloody ChipTorque modded ECU is the problem!

Nice looking car.

Mike

Awesome, thanks so far guys

I drive it like a granny 90% of the time, I'm still getting used to the accelerator, they're alot stiffer and more shallow than the holdens (i barely crack it and it'll jump off the line).

I'll use BP Ultimate from here on in and see if that helps,
Where can I get this 'flash tune' thing - and will that place to me a major service and most other things?

Maybe I'll go with 3.9's - the diff at the moment has a ever so slight clunk when you hop off the gas, so I want to get it rebuilt and tightened anyway.

Well, heres the list of things I want done to it as soon as I've sold my VR Berlina ($4k, calais mock up - pm )

Diff rebuilt and tightened, maybe higher gears.
Auto rebuilt, strengthened, shiftkit and MAYBE a small stally - about 2k all up you think?
Transcooler (few people suggested it.)
New bushes, Camber Caster kit to be re-adjusted, few joints and things here and there need replacing
Major service
Fix the throttle-only start issue
Flash tune
Dyno run.


But I also need some things done for a RWC - new globe in the number plate uluminater, 2 new tyres, maybe a temp raise with stock springs.

whats the legal limit now, 100mm or 80mm?

Is a coke can 100mm?

Hope you boys don't mind the constant barage of questions.

Heres some more photos for you to browse through, either oogle, compliment, or point out problems I've failed to notice.

PS: I want a new exhaust tip and get the bottom right bumper paint fixed up, the bumper has peeled from where it flexed, and the tip's been scratched to hell when the previous owner drove it for a while with chopped springs.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/ ... pic014.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/ ... ewpic4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/ ... /beach.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/ ... pic015.jpg

Oh, also - what price should I be expecting for 2 new front headlights?
The passenger side one is faded and yellow, so I figure I'll get 2 new ones.

Should I steer clear of aftermarket ones?

When you find out what is causing the throttle-only start, let me know. Mine has been doing it for 4-5 years now, although I suspect the bloody ChipTorque modded ECU is the problem!
Mines done the same for the last year, and after near on $3000.00 worth of mechanics replacing and not been able to fix I have learned to live with it, but if you do find out let me know.

finding a cheap aftermarket pair from ebay would be the besat bang for you buck just search "fairmont el headlights" and a whole bunch of them should pop up
or
do it yourself http://www.fordmods.com/forums/documents.php?doc=58

el fairmont ghia should already have 3.45s and lsd in the back. and that car was owned by another member and i must say its had its fair share of floggings of which there is several photos to prove. those gt wheels in the pic you have are actually on my car now

and those lights are dodgy as save up and get genuine ones

try cleaning out the ISC and check the voltage on the TPS as I did this last night and it seamed to clear a lot problems up that i had.

What rims has it currently got on it? EL GT's or BF GT's?

Don't worry about new lights- they can be cleaned up using wet and dry. Check the tech document on this site. Cost ya' about $10 including a tube of Autosol metal polish.

Mike

HMASEL

Average fuel consumption of 15 / 100 is in the ballpark for a 5.0L.
What you'd probably want to do is throw a set of plugs and leads in it if your not sure how long ago they were changed. Country driving will give better fuel economy, but around town 15 / 100 is to be expected.

As far as the starting issue, you'll find the throttle body itself is carboned up, invest in a can of nulon carby + throttle body cleaner, and some rag, and clean out the throttle body, once you do this, you will find it will idle faster for a couple days until the ecu relearns the idle. Also make sure you clean the carbon off edges of the throttle butterfly, spray the carb cleaner on the rag, open the throtte body and use the rag over your fingers to clean the back edge of the butterfly.

General rule of thumb - EFI cars, do not touch the accelerator to start it,as they already have cold start enrichment and fast idle coded into the ecu, touching the accelerator can cause it to rev up too quickly before it builds oil pressure.

The autos are fine with shift kits, we have hundreds of customers with our shift kits fitted, and never ever had a report of a customer having a problem with an auto giving up.
The auto's dont have any major common problems, provided you have an external cooler fitted and service the trans every 20.000 kms. No need to get the auto strenghened or anything like that, worry about that when it gives up. We've got customers running 260+ rwhp on factory auto's with only a shift kit.

The ecu controls the shift points, so if its holding gears then you may need to reset the trans ecu and see how it goes from there.

A 3.45 or 3.7 diff will be the best option, however a 2500 stall will cause the fuel consumption to rise slightly in city driving. Best upgrades to do is the diff, shift kit if you like, and fit your extractors, next on the list, change the cam, dont go too larger cam, as it will bring on the power later in the rpm, which with a daily driven auto, you dont want. Go with a cam that will give you a bucketload of torque in the midrange, and tops out at about 5200-5500 rpm

f**k the auto off and get a T5, the BTR has such a long first gear its pretty hopeless getting off the line in stock form. Id guess that a complete conversion would cost around the 2grand mark?

The windsor definitely needs better heads and intake. A set of GT40 heads and Explorer manifold would be a good upgrade. I'm fairly sure Vic is selling both right now, for a good price too.

http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=

Oh and a 2 1/2 redback exhaust.

Those would be some worthwile mods.

If it's hard to start do a self test first. Then check fuel pressure and fuel delivery. Change your fuel filter too...this is usually the first thing I do when I buy another car. 15L/100 is a bit much. Most 5.0's sit around 12L ive found....the fuel delivery can cause this problem. Not enough fuel means excessive accelerator action and therefore poor fuel economy.

Pete.