Sup guys. im getting my hands on a el xr8 no rego and no key. i want to convert it all into my i6 eb falcon but unsure if its worth doing or just fixing up the el for a blue slip. for me i like the body shape eof the old eb faclon so would prefer to do the mod. i have the time on my hands to do the mod. but a friend told me because my eb is a i6 and i want to change it over to a v8 i will have to get it approved

If you need a key for the EL, pull the boot lock or door lock and take it down to a Locksmith and get them to make up a key.

If you have an EB1 (no Smartlock) then these weren't fitted with a V8. Only the later EB's got the V8.

Fitting a V8 to an 6cyl EB/ED will require a V8 K Frame.

You won't need an engineer but you will need to have the car Blueslipped. Caution on the early series EB. You may not get it approved due to that series not being fitted with a V8. I would check that first, different people interperate the rules differently.

Early EL XR8s had the 165kw motor and the later series got the 185kw.

What condition is the EL? Is it worth bringing back? It would be a better option than the EB.

my eb is the earlyer series no smart lock. would the el k frame fit on my eb and i was thinking and hoping the brakes would bolt striaght on aswell. might just be worth fixing up the el for a blue do you think? im not to good with whats required of cars and mods to get rego but im ok at working on them. i only had a quick look at the el but motor is good body good. by the looks of it the el needs a new paint job and a key, it has no key and also has smart lock. im getting the hole car for $200

EF/EL K frame can be fitted to the EB with some modification, nothing overly major. EF/EL K Frame is a major upgrade on the EA-ED K Frame.

EL front brakes are the same as EB. Your EB won't have ABS where the EL XR8 will.

Diff in the EL XR should be 3.45:1 LSD. Your EB will probably be a single spinner. Rear brakes are different between EF/EL and EA-ED.

Paint is not a fail for a pink slip and the key is an easy fix.

Hard to do just the barrel as you need the key in there to pull it out. You could change the whole ignition barrel/column lock over and progam the new ignition to the ECU.

im pritty sure there in no barrel just the end part were the wires go to. the guy can start it but he sed he has to do sumthing to it and wait 40min then it will start.
I was pritty much thinking of putting every thing from the el. diff, engine, gearbox(4 speed auto).
only because my eb gearbox is on its way out and the bottom end of the enging is aswell.
i was planing on getting a ba engine and converting it into my eb but i got this deal on the el was to good to knock back.

If there is no barrel, just fit a new one and program it to the BCM.

ye i could probly get a barrel and key from the wreckers for pritty cheap.
Im starting to think its more worth me fixing up the el than transering everything over to my eb.
it sounds like you know a fair bit about mods and stuff as this would be my 1st big mod.
Whats your thorts. do the conversion or fix up the el?

Depending on the condition of the EL - fix the EL.

damm. went to go and get that el xr8 today but he sold it already. eny ideas whats a good engine and tran to put in my eb. i want a 4speed auto gearbox. as my old i6 bottom end is going and same with the g,box

replace with either another EB 6 & gearbox or ED motor/box or EF/EL/AU motor with either EB/ED/EF/EL box

an au motor and gearbox should drop straight in?
which set up would give me most power?
i was thinking about turboing it aswell be4 i drop it in. not sure yet

Stock E Series/AU engine will give you no major increase in power. The AU Block is a more balanced engine and is the better option.

Things required to fit AU engine to EF/EL (updated 15/02/14)

1) Sump needs to be modified to fit K-Frame, you can cut and weld the K-Frame but that is up to you, will need engineering after being cut. You cannot use an E Series sump as the sump is totally different to AU. There are cases of the E series sump being used but filler plates or large quantities of sealant were used, not recommended. Also you loose the advantage of the cross bolting of the AU sump when using the E series sump, one of the major strength points of using the AU Block.

2) You need to use AU/BF alternator or you will need to modify the block and drill and tap mount points to mount the EF/EL alternator.
If you use an AU I alternator you will need to change the plug for the alternator to one from an AUI as these are different from the Mitsubishi alternators.
Note: The AUII & III and BA alternators have the same plug as EF/EL.

3) Remove the Oil Drive Block where the Dizzy (EL) or cam sensor (EF) goes and remove the gear from the shaft and fit to your Dizzy (EL) or Cam Sensor (EF). This will then mean that the gears are matching and you should have no issue’s, there have been issues with dizzy’s failing when this has not been done. Some modding will be required to use the existing mount point, extra notch in the clamp plate or grind the tab off the Cam sensor.
Note:Do not try and drill hole in existing EF position on AU block, you will drill through the block.

4) You will need to use an EF/EL thermostat housing as these have your temp sensor and AU housings do not. You could use the EB type if you wish as this has an extra fitting for an additional sensor is required at a later date.

5) You will need to use the EF/EL BBM as the upper section is different to the AU. Also use the EF/EL throttle body as some of the plugs are different to the AU.

6) Use the EF/EL wiring loom.

7) You will need to tap the block on an AUII/III Block with an M12 1.5 tap if using the EF/EL Knock sensor. AUI is already tapped with the correct thread for the EF/EL Knock Sensor. If using the AU sensor you will need to modify the plug.

8) a) You will need to cut the EF/EL AC pump mount spacers down to 30mm to suit the AU block as well as shortening the bolts by 10mmm if using the AU alternator to suit the standard serpentine belt.
b) If using the EF/EL alternator with modified mounts you will not need to cut down the mounts and be able to use the standard Serpentine belt.
c) Alternatively you can use the AU alternator , standard AC spacers and a Serpentine belt from an XH (Slightly longer).

9) Use the EF/EL power steering pump. This is a direct bolt up. The AU pump hose connection is different to the EF/EL.

10) You do not need to change the Harmonic balancer for either EL (Dizzy) or EF Coil Pack.

11) If fitting to EF you will need to use your original Coil Pack or an AUI coil pack as these are different to AUII & III. (different plug) You can use an AUII/III coil but the plug with need to be changed as well as different leads.

12) You can use the AU head or fit you EF/EL head, that is up to you.

might just try and find a eb ticktford engine and gearbox and put the things i have on my old engine onto the tickford. i have exctactors, my cam reground sports exaust. do you know what a good diff is for the old eb also would it be worth turboing it? how much power do you recon sum1 could get out one fixed up, with turbo and with out? sorry for the dumb questions but im not to good when it comes to what mods i can and cant do

he's not using the EF/EL ..... going with the EB







believe that you will need to use the tickford ecu to get the most out of the ticki & fuel reg ... turbo - no idea. diff depends on what you want .... really [& be serious] could be anywhere from 3.23 to 4.11. most common ones i believe [?] are 3.22/3.27 & 3.45.

he's not using the EF/EL ..... going with the EB

Same bloody modifications required. .

Not rewritting the whole f...ing procedure. If you can't work it out from what is written then you shouldn't be touching it. F..k me.

This has gone from DOHC to SOHC to Wiidsor 5.0 V8 back to SOHC.