Hello All.

I have a 1998 EL2 (185kw) XR8. I have just got hold of an EL GT MAF, and I am thinking of heading down to SVO to pick up a 75mm TB, 75mm ported explorer top manifold to suit, and an SVO intake manifold spacer (heat insulator)...

Im just after peoples opinions on this stuff, and weather you think it will work well togeather or not.

I would also like to know if upgrading to 24lb Magna injectors would be benificial with above mods also?? (Keep in mind I already have a EL GT 24lb MAF sensor, but do I need an upgraded ECU to deal with this also????)

Cheers all, I look forward to your feedback and advice!

Pez

did you pick the gt maf up on ebay? saw one there a while back, i have heard that the gt maf is not compatible with the standard xr ecu, you need either a chip or the gt ecu.

Yes the EL GT isn't really compatible with the stock EEC, some get it to work but it will run you fairly lean up high. You should run a chip to get the EEC calibrated properly for it, but at least run it on the dyno to make sure you aren't running too lean. Also, the EL GT MAF (like any ford OEM MAF) is not calibrated for a specific injector size, that is done in the EEC itself. So upgrading to 24lb injectors (which the magan ones aren't anyway unless you run much higer fuel pressures) is not a solution.

As for the 75mm MAF and manifold, going that big will actually hurt performance. A 65mm TB is a perfect match for a 5L to around 280kw, any larger and you will just loose throttle response.

Thanks for your replys guys.

In regards to the EL GT MAF not being compatible, -- Can't I just remove the 'black box sensor part' from my current 55mm MAF and attach it to the new ELGT MAF???? --hence using the same sensor, but in a bigger body?
I heard that that is all I would have to do???

I have heard of people doing this with a particular AU XR8 MAF on EL's. Is the EL GT and AU XR8 MAF totally different in some way???


Cheers,

Pez

Ok, I just found this on another forum...........


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Just for those of you with EB-EL windsors...

Done the exhaust, Extractors, cold air intake? Goes OK but a bit more would be better?

Take a look at the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor on the back of the air cleaner box - Five litres trying to breathe through a fifty-cent sized hole...

Go to the wreckers (or Ford if you're feeling rich). Get hold of an AU MAF which is basically 70mm dia. Unscrew the AU hot wire module off it and store it somewhere safe - It will be there for a long time. Plus it won't plug into the earlier wiring looms.

Put the hot wire module from the original MAF on the AU body and plug it back into the car. Job done. The extra torque you pick up low to mid-range will shock you and you will also gain horsepower up top.

I was told about this by Rob Herrod - so it was always going to work, plus we saw dozens of these done at the FPV open day. Just to be sure, we stuck a gas analyser up the tailpipe on Barrie's dyno in Queens Park. Mixtures stayed spot on for cruise and idle (which is to be expected in closed loop) and 12.8:1 at wide open throttle - which is not necessarily optimum for horsepower, but is about as rich as Henry wanted it to be to make the exhaust valves outlast the warranty...

As a side note, a friend tried a Sprint/GT MAF (complete) on his EL XR8 and it did not work - I believe these are matched to larger injectors (24lb instead of 18lb) and probably ECU mappings. These may also work using the car's std hot wire sensor but I can't say from experience.
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Pez

Changing over the electronics still has its problems with running lean up high because the MAF body lows differently, but it is the normal way that people get the AU MAFs to work on earlier models. I would try both electronics on the dyno to see which produces the best AF ratio's.

Ok.

As I have not actually paid for the new MAF as yet, I guess my last question is this then...


Am I better off sourcing an AU 70mm MAF, or should I go with this EL GT one. (With the removable electronic "hot wire" sensor aside, are the bodies the same or very different???)

I dont have long to make the decision on weather to let the EL GT one go or not....

If I am going to have the SAME problems no matter wich way I decide to go (ELGT MAF or AU MAF - both running the standard EL XR8 electrics), then Ill be happy to give it a shot, BUT if the AU one is a better match, then thats what ill do!!!

Please help!!!!
Thanks all again


Pez

and one last thing,

are all the AU V8 70mm MAFs the same??? Or is there a particular model I need to source????


Pez

Every AU MAF I've checked (a dozen or so) have had the same part number so I assume they're all the same.

Yeah all AU V8's run the 70mm MAF but they don't flow nearly as well as the EL GT / Cobra style ones. As for which one would be a better match, my bet is they would both have similar issues.

How much are you looking at for the EL GT one? It may be a better idea to save a bit more and go for an aftermarket MAF like the Professional air systems or C&L ones. They easily outflow the 70mm Ford MAFs plus they are calibrated for your EEC and injector size, the C&L ones even have interchangable sample tubes for different injector sizes which make it very cheap and easy when you decide to upgrade injectors. Expect to pay around $400 for them but IMO its worth the extra money.

Good stuff.

Thanks EDXR8, and to all for the great advice! I will investigate the Professional air systems and C&L MAFs. I was looking at a brand new (old stock) EL GT MAF and airbox for $550. I guess that makes the $400 odd for the alternative look pretty good!

I rang around some of the most well knows performace joints today (they will go un-named here, but you can probably guess who they were), with very poor results! I was amazed at the lack of knowledge some of the people I spoke to had regarding thier own gear, and MAF info in general, but thats another story!

Pez

Nah $550 for the MAF is a rip IMO, I would possibly consider it if it was under $200 but even then thats already half a decent aftermarket one which should not have issues with leaning out etc. The Professional air systems are around $400 and you may be able to pick up the C&L ones even cheaper seeing you reuse your own electronics.

And yes I know what you mean about the lack of knowledge displayed by some of the so called ford experts, still there are some really good knowledgable ones around.