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 Post subject: Fuel Issues
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 1:01 pm 
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I've replaced a few things on my ute recently but I continue to get s**t fuel economy. I've replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter, oil and oil filter but I still get around 7k to the litre or 360km from a tank. I know there is more in it as I've had 500km from a tank previously. The leads are about 40,000k old but I wouldn't think that would make too much difference. There is also a hole in the exhaust thats only minor. Im thinking it might be time to have the injectors cleaned but can they really be holding back an extra 150km per tank? I'm running premium fuel.

thanks for any help guys

 

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Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 5:20 pm 
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tried cleaning the maf hot wires? or might be o2 sensors, hego sensors or whatever they are called. does it show any fault codes?

 

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Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 7:43 pm 
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as millard455 said, check all the sensors. I had faulty hego sensors which are the o2 sensors in the headers. They caused a decrease in fuel economy. A diagnostic check will tell you if you have any faulty sensors - or blocked injectors, if I'm not mistaken.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 12:01 am 
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Another vote here for cleaning MAF hotwires, and checking o2 sensors.

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 2:56 am 
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thanks guys. can use a test light on the diag plug and short wires for diagnostics right? what are the maf hot wires? are they the wires inside the barrell? what is the best way to clean them?
cheers.

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:25 am 
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Very lightly with a cutip and some degreaser

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 12:00 pm 
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Get some contact cleaner or carby cleaner and blast some spray at the MAF hotwires. If you are going to touch the hotwires, be very gentle because if you break one of them then the MAF becomes a throwaway and will cost you a few hundred for a reco unit.

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 7:50 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
thanks guys. can use a test light on the diag plug and short wires for diagnostics right? what are the maf hot wires? are they the wires inside the barrell? what is the best way to clean them?
cheers.


No you cannot use a test light because it will draw too much current and blow the driver. You can use a LED with a corresponding resistor or use an Analog multimeter and watch the sweeps.. Some DMM's have a bar graph(like my Fluke) so you can use them otherwise they display too quick so you might miss the code.
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 11:26 pm 
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Ok I have a simple analogue mutli meter. Will that do the job without causing any harm?

 

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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 11:28 pm 
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Yes that'll do fine.
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Posted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 6:58 pm 
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Dont clean the maf wires with carby cleaner its the best way to totally stuff it(learnt from experience) use contact cleaner.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 9:48 pm 
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buddy your car is fine, i wish mine did 7 to the litre its more like 19 km im only getting 200-250 out of a tank
but you should also think about the fuel your putting in is it from caltex or shell or bp
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Posted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:42 pm 
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From my traning on Volvos that use the same sensor systems do the following.

Replace all the O2 Sensors in the ehaust system. They only havea 12 month life span. As they get older there readings change. But they never change enough to thorw a fault code in the ECU.

So just replace them anyway.

To clean the MAF hotwires do the following.

Drive car untill at operating temp.
Shut off engine.
Start Engine.
let Idle for 1 min or so.
Rev engine to 3000 RPM for 30 seconds. And while holding 3000 RPM switch off engine and remove key.

About 30 or so seconds later the MAF will heat up the hot wire glowing red and automatically clean its self.
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Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 10:17 am 
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Self Cleaning? Thats pretty fancy. I ended up cleaning it manually before seeing your post garsiph but now I know for next time. I pulled the MAF out of the car and removed the electronics part to make it easier - a bit of contact cleaner and a light rub with a cotton bud got all the gunk off - there was a fair but of s**t. The wires were black when I pulled them out of the car and when I put it back together they were shiny silver and it has made a difference to fuel economy - about an extra 40km per tank which is well worth it. I will replace the oxy sensors next. Anyone have an idea on what new ones cost roughly? Can I replace them myself? Also is it worth pulling the injectors out to have them sonically cleaned?

Thanks guys

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 4:32 pm 
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Sensorsjust bolt on / off easy as pie :)

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