I've been looking at a 347 stroker to put into my car, but I've just discovered that it's been bored to .040". Can get it for a good price, but am worried that .040 will be pushing the boundaries as far as block strength goes. The motor has pushed out 350rwhp which will suit me fine, but for how long?

350rwhp is still within the limits of our thin walled stock blocks. IMO, you shouldn't have a problem with reliability if that's as far as you push it.

Should be ok but personally id just go buy a block from a wreaker with standard bore and start with that

I hear you Vic, but I'm still wary.

I really want to get it cos I don't think I'll come across anything at this price for a long time. I've always been led to believe that they shouldn't go over .030". If it was .030 overbore, then I wouldn't be thinking twice. Is the extra .010 going to make that much of a difference?

The weak point of the 5.0 (302) Windsor block is the main web. A bore size of 4.040 will be fine. It's only 0.005" of extra metal being removed from the bore wall over what would be removed from a +030 re-bore.

iam with him go a standard block and stroke it.......

That's always been on the cards, but if I can do this it'll cost me a hell of a lot less.

So u found a 347 stroker engine that has been bored out 40 thou????

Im sort of lost now hahaha

Yeah, it's already built mate. Just come out of another car and produced just over 350rwhp. It's done just under 13000km since it was built 18 months ago. So, it's actually 348. But yeah. My concern was that it's .040" over.

Is it a Windsor or a Clevo??????

Well its done the kms so if something was gona go wrong it would of by now

How much does he want and what parts in it exactly???

By the time I buy the car it's in, pull the motor out, slap a stock one back in and sell it and remainder of parts that I don't want to keep, it might cost me $2k! If I sell the parts on my current motor, I might be a couple of grand on top.

I get the full spec sheet tomorrow off the engine builder. At this stage I know it has eagle crank and rods, srp pistons (140690), heavily ported gt40ps, bbk race manifold and custom cam with around .530 lift and 270 - 280* duration.

Why dont u just swap engines and use ur top end on that engine and slap ur engine in his with its GT40p heads??? also swap cams over between engine so tune wont be so out???

U have to think at the end of it how much labour its going to cost u if u carnt do some stuff plus tunes for both or just ur car and sell other saying it needs a tune. I dont recommend this as if a car runs funny i wont buy it, so buying confidence is much higher if its running right.

Then u will have the hassal of selling the other car and could take months to sell it and just sit there and i bet it has a cast crank and i beam rods which isent the better quality parts used in the engine.

If its the case of cast crank and i beam rods i think its better to go build ur own fresh engine bottem end then use ur top end and know exactly what it is and what ur getting.

If i were u id approach some engine builders and see if they have anything for sale becuz my mate just recently bought a 393 cleveland rotating assembly, machined block ready to assemble for $2500.00 so add another $1500-$1800 to assemble and blue print and he is laughing.

There are bargains out there so wait around and keep and eye and ear out and something will come up for sure and u wont have to outlay so much money upfront with buying a whole car and swapping engine over then tuning them and who knows what else pops up.

Im sure BPT can put a block together for you and use ur top end from $5000.00 and its a new engine and u know what it is and have some warranty.

Have u also considered buying a engine from the US???

I am and doing research on finding reputable shops for both engine and gearbox and i can potentially save $5000-7000

Really think it through as u get excited then do it and have headaches then wished u just built ur own engine and 2 me it seems more simple to build ur own than buying another car and swapping it over then selling the other car which adds to the headache.

My mates done this b4 and it dosent work and when i stripped my EF XR8 and sold the 347, C4, wheels and roller was a headache to pull everything out and would never do it again. I should of kept the car as it was and drive till someone bought it as is.

Sorry to confuse u but thats my expeirence and the way it is unfortuantly

sorry to throw off topic,

but what in the block specifically needs machining for a 347 stroker and at what price?

In sydney it will cost $1500.00 to maching block for a stroker

So bore and hone
Line bore
Deck the block
Welsh plugs
Acid dip