Anyone?
I'll just stick my new ELGT MAF Sensor onto the stock body and see what happens?

It may work o/k with 19 Lb injectors ??

I already said yes.
The reason the engine ran ok with no MAF is because the EEC uses a MAF failure mode table to look up fueling. This fueling is richer than normal because richer is safer for the engine. This richness would mask a missing problem or solve it if it were caused by an overly lean mixture.

should i stick the entire GT MAF on or just the GT sensor on the stock body? Or try both?

First try the GT 70mm Hotwire on the stock 55mm housing to see if it's better than your original hotwire.
You can also try the whole 70mm MAF which will also work but will not be strictly correct. This is effectively the same thing as the commonly done swap of 55mm hotwire on the 70mm AU MAF housing(which is really the same MAF as the 70mm GT one you have).
You will see slightly leaner mixtures with the 70 MAF body and this usually works out well at high loads with the generally rich calibrations done by the factory.
At light loads(in closed loop) the EEC will put some fuel back in to compensate and adapt that way over time. Load will be artificially calculated lower by the EEC due to the larger MAF it does not know is there. This can also work out well because these engines respond to well to a little more timing.
Just be wary of detonation....especially in hotter weather and when you stab the throttle.
I'd recommend a run on a dyno to check your air/fuel with this larger MAF fitted.
BTW have you done an EEC self test?

Thanks for that, no I haven't run a EEC Self Test.
I need multimeters don't I?

You can use a LED.

I must be the only guy without basic electrical knowledge.
What is an LED?

Light Emitting Diode