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Sketch |
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Nice questions dude, its feedback like that that makes great inventions come to life : )
The pressure switch would be similar to those in the Ea and pov-pack falcons, with a pressure activated on off function, below set level is on, and above is off, similar to the pressure warning light’s, but with a relay to active pump. As for monitoring via a gauge, I would assume that would be the optimum way to go, or perhaps have a sender set to activate a light when pressure has been reached. I already have a separate analogue pressure gauge so that would be the easiest way to go, ill be doing it this weekend hopefully so ill address any issues I find during installation in the write-up. With the 555 timer you pretty much have it spot on, “Are you doing so for when it does reach the OFF pressure it will still flow for X time, giving you enough time to crank the engine without worrying if the pump has stopped or not? “ I may or may not implement this, because as soon as you crank the engine the standard oil pump will be working as usual, so its not necessary for the electric one to operate. As far as the worst case scenario, I would only use one oil filter, in a remote location after the electric pump, ,,, it would also be very easy to run an engine oil cooler in front of the radiator also to maintain optimum oil viscosity. Because the electric oil pump can free-flow when no current is applied, it will not interrupt normal operation when its not active, and if the oil pressure drops below said level at lights etc, it would only reduce pressure on the mechanical pump, and increase engine pressure up to the specified level, maintaining a correct pressure at all rpm’s. feedback is apreceated, ill keep you all up to date on how it goes - Sketch
_________________ i miss you scotty, u goddamn goose! |
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master |
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No worries Mr Futura, we all have days like that. Lets just agree to the fact that Castrol "MAGNATEC", does none of what it claims, and from what we can gather, is a s***ty oil anyway
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Sketch |
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redline racing oil on the otehr hand,, mmmmmmmmmm
3-6 Hpand many otehr benifits,,, NOT off their website.... frank, you run waterwetter dont ya,,, man i love redline
_________________ i miss you scotty, u goddamn goose! |
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1 SLY 97EL |
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{USERNAME} wrote: No worries Mr Futura, we all have days like that. Lets just agree to the fact that Castrol "MAGNATEC", does none of what it claims, and from what we can gather, is a s***ty oil anyway
Yes we can all agree on this
_________________ " In life their is never an Obligation just an Opportunity to..Own an awesome 1970 Ford Mach 1 Mustang! " |
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Epitome |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Nice questions dude, its feedback like that that makes great inventions come to life : )
The pressure switch would be similar to those in the Ea and pov-pack falcons, with a pressure activated on off function, below set level is on, and above is off, similar to the pressure warning light’s, but with a relay to active pump. As for monitoring via a gauge, I would assume that would be the optimum way to go, or perhaps have a sender set to activate a light when pressure has been reached. I already have a separate analogue pressure gauge so that would be the easiest way to go, ill be doing it this weekend hopefully so ill address any issues I find during installation in the write-up. With the 555 timer you pretty much have it spot on, “Are you doing so for when it does reach the OFF pressure it will still flow for X time, giving you enough time to crank the engine without worrying if the pump has stopped or not? “ I may or may not implement this, because as soon as you crank the engine the standard oil pump will be working as usual, so its not necessary for the electric one to operate. As far as the worst case scenario, I would only use one oil filter, in a remote location after the electric pump, ,,, it would also be very easy to run an engine oil cooler in front of the radiator also to maintain optimum oil viscosity. Because the electric oil pump can free-flow when no current is applied, it will not interrupt normal operation when its not active, and if the oil pressure drops below said level at lights etc, it would only reduce pressure on the mechanical pump, and increase engine pressure up to the specified level, maintaining a correct pressure at all rpm’s. feedback is apreceated, ill keep you all up to date on how it goes - Sketch A further question for you. You will take the oil pickup for the electric pump from the base of the sump, right? Obviously, you can't take it from through the mechanical pump, as it isn't spinning and therefore there would be zero oil flow.
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Epitome |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I think that kind of stuff is available innit? I imagine this is how a dry sump would operate.
Actually dry sump systems use multi chamber belt driven pumps. That is they have three or for pumps in one unit. Typically two chambers are used for sump scavanging purposes. One chamber is used to feed the motor. And if there is a fourth chamber (V8 supercar teams use 4), it is most often used as a crank case vacuum pump.
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Epitome |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Spotted the add for this in a magazine and are wondering if anyone has used or heard of it before.
The website for it is www.frictech.com While I have no experience with Militec, I have heard good reports from other drag racers who have used it.
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Disco Frank |
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{USERNAME} wrote: *thinks* i know what im doin this weekend,,,,, remote oil filter,,,, with an electric pil pump, similar to dry sump,,,,
but on a 555Timer on the oil pressure sender,,,, ill do a tech writeup when ive done it, but itll basicly be ,,, when teh ignition is on, and the oil pressure is below a set limit, teh oil will be pumped through the galley's by the pump, then when pressure is up, i.e engine running,,, the pump will freeflow as normal..... mm weekend over... so is it done?
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master |
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A friend of mine, who has been in to racing in the past, recommended that I use Penrite, he seems to think it is one of the best oils, what would you guys say ?
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We use Penrite and several other drag racers I know use Penrite too. I haven't spoken to any others about what they use.
We buy HPR50 in 20 litre drums.
_________________ Kel. Last edited by Epitome on Thu Jan 06, 2005 9:20 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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Disco Frank |
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{USERNAME} wrote: A friend of mine, who has been in to racing in the past, recommended that I use Penrite, he seems to think it is one of the best oils, what would you guys say ?
PENRITE IS THE s**t i run penrite engine oil, trans oil and theire super think blue lsd oil!
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Sketch |
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Quote: A further question for you. You will take the oil pickup for the electric pump from the base of the sump, right?
taking it from the sump drain plug with a screw in hose fitting. havent done it yet as mates cars died and had to fix em my weekend was spent replacing the timing cover and waterpump on a Eb302 fitting a cam on an i6 fitting 3 thermofans and fising ignition probs on 2 of my mates cars,,, didnt get aorund to doin my own stuff,, although i did convert from the dodgy AU thermo's to a sweet 16" volvo one,, mmm cooling..
_________________ i miss you scotty, u goddamn goose! |
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master |
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Cool, thanx for the advice guys.
I think I'll start using Penrite. The previous owner was using Mobil I think.
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Disco Frank |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Cool, thanx for the advice guys. ohh if he was using mobil 1 from at least 40thou kays kepp using mobile 1
I think I'll start using Penrite. The previous owner was using Mobil I think. it is actually very very damn good oil expensive yes but if the engine has had it since under 40thousand kays it worth it it actually stops alot of wear!
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master |
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I'm getting the car tuned by an expert here in Brisbane, I'll see what he says, I'm not sure if the car has run Mobil 1 since under 40 thousand, because I am the third owner, I'm sure my mechanic can tell me.
Thanks for that advice Disco Frank
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