I've been thinking whether to post my new engine build up and have considered why not, so here we go.

This will be a "blueprinted" build

For starters these are some of the new "bits".



consisting of,

Scat 9000 lightweight 347 crank
Special size Probe forged pistons with perfect seal moly rings.
Special size Probe lightweight rods
Clevite 77 bearings
Romac balancer
Ford Roller lifters
Ford SVO Oil pump drive
Ford SVO mini windage tray
Mellings oil pump
Moroso oil pick up
Pavtek alloy mains girdle
ARP complete engine stud kit
Extreme chrome moly flywheel
Seco pressure plate
Aisin HD truck clutch
Fel Pro gaskets
Ford 90mm Lightning SVO truck MAF
Accufab 80mm race series throttle body
Bosch 36lb injectors
Ford SVO/Rouse Racing HI-VO NASCAR timing chain set $$$ - As used in Ambrose's cars
Custom ground US camshaft,springs,titanium retainers and locks.

The aim of this engine will be torque with a great mpg and the secret is the personal custom camshaft, which was ground to suit the 4runners weight, gearing and engine etc etc. I've decided mpg is more important if I want to continue with long trips etc so while a full performance cam would be neat it wouldn’t be a smart move. The current cams lopey idle does sound great but I have to be practical, however the final RWHP figures will still be more than reasonable and occur at only 5400rpm.

I’m using another block so I can still use the 4Runner and I’ll pull the engine and swap the heads and injection over when it’s ready. At the same time I will have the gearbox refurbished with new bearings and synchro's.

First off was to source a low mileage standard block and do some basic block "blueprinting" prior to reboring such as deburring, chamfer oil drain holes, remove any casting dags etc etc and a few hours was spent prepping it accordingly and it’s now ready for a rebore.



It was then time to "fix" the new Scat "black" crankshaft

Half way there and a time consuming and messy job but so far so good.



Many hours later the crankshaft is now fully polished and all counterweights have a polished submarine bull nose. Not a good pic but its now up to my specs.



In addition I've trial fitted the Girdle and done clearancing etc, fabricated a dipstick tube to clear it along with making mounts for the mini windage tray. As I'm still using the 4Runner I cut and welded a spare sump to clear the front diff and reshaped the Moroso oil pick up to suit. Also all the rotating parts have now been balanced.

New sump modified to clear front diff and prepared for painting.



Next I decided to fabricate a complete new larger alloy air cleaner box. I first made a wooden mock up to get the right clearance an intake angle and then cut alloy panels and clamped them to the mould so they could be welded exactly as required. It took a fair bit of work to finalise this mother and I still have to do the final cut for the MAF location once the engines installed.



But recently, I also decided to do a complete revision of the front accessories and spent time wandering my local wreckers to determine what to use for a neat fitment and practicality point of view.

This time I'm sticking with Ford and using a Ford BA power steering pump, Ford BA air con compressor and a Ford AU alternator, which is also available in a 220amp capacity and cough cough a LS1 belt tensioner. All these items are late model and easy to locate, if required.

Again using another block and heads the trick was to first position each accessory where required to work out how to fab suitable mounts but also be cognisant of the pulley belt length so as to use a common belt that is readily available. The plan this time was to also have them on separate mounts so each can be easily removed if required rather than have to remove others to get to one etc.

Determining a suitable p/s mount design.



These are the final brackets and all can now be removed separately in seconds, if required.





BA p/s done. Much neater pump installed with 3 simple easily accessible bolts.



BA XR8 air con.



This Ford 130amp alternator can now be installed or removed in seconds from the top using a rattle gun on 3 bolts. The belt tensioner has 2.



The accessories are now closer to the engine centre and the P/S pump is now located on the right side so the current crossover fluid lines can be discarded. I was hoping to locate the air con on the left side for the same reason but I didn't want it sticking out etc so it stays on the right, but the BA compressor has better hose connectors so I can streamline the hose configuration.

The new mounts are designed so they can be slightly spaced in either direction etc in case any replacement parts don't perfectly aligned and they now also use a shorter common belt.

Crank installed and an assembled rod and piston on each corner and using a magnetic dial gauge bridge to determine what current deck height is



This is No 1 cylinder and it read .0185" "down the hole" and No 4 read .016" . No 5 read .014" as did No 8 so the left bank is perfectly parallel to the crank whereas the right bank has a 0025" slope.:

I require a zero deck so I need to have .016: machined from the right and .014" from the left.

Crank end play measured up bang on 004" so mickey mouse.



Block has now been decked and spent the day applying Glyptal 1201 and man that stuff is powerful as I was high as a kite by the time I finished



Currently working on new p/s and a/c lines using the new accessories etc as its been too freakin cold in the shed at nights to build the engine so I'm planning to wait until it warms up a tad and I get to pull the current engine, remove the AFR185's and my custom injection and then finish this engine in one go.

I recently found out my digital camera took vids so here's the current engine idle etc.

Click on the square in bottom right of vid and turn speakers up

http://www.vimeo.com/1372470


I'll post further engine build pics as and when I get to it

.

Looks great.

Just out of curiosity, what heads will you be using with it?

Yep, use the AFR 185’s and this custom injection from current engine.

how much HP ya chasing?

mite have to report this post as PORN!! haha looks freakin sweet as.

how much HP ya chasing?

Whatever it makes

HP is not the goal, torque and mpg is where it’s at for my purposes.

My 4Runner weighs 2300kg’s and with 32” tyres and turning a transfer as well as the gearbox it is not possible to be directly compared to dyno figures of a car etc. A South Oz 4wd shop did 4wd engine dyno versus chassis dyno tests that showed a 4wd loses around 30-35% on the chassis dyno versus engine.

However, I would suspect it will pump out around 330-350hp at the wheels, which given this % drivetrain loss would mean it would be making some serious flywheel HP .

But my goal is to see if I can get this baby running super efficient so it gets into the 10L/100k zone while cruising. I drive to Bathurst each year (not this year though ) and then visit areas on the east coast etc. With current and future fuel costs every bit will count to be able to continue doing these long trips.

nice job mate ...really impressed with your air cleaner box , bet you put a few hours into that !!

Very nice JD.
I always admire your work.
Hopefully i'll get the chance to check out your beast again one day.

Cheers
Jeff

You're not wrong . Still got drawing plans on the garage floor as I used a texi colour pen and it won't wear off

But only last night I was looking at it thinking of either starting again or cutting that one up to make some changes. Probably wait and see how it all comes together and then make the decision

Just remembered I haven't updated this post for awhile

Some pics of the actual engine build.

First determining the factory deck height in order to have the block decked to suit the new 347 pistons.





Block now decked, bored and ready for assembly





Previously polished lightweight crank fitted





¾” alloy girdle, SVO mini windich tray and modified Moroso oil pickup now fitted using ARP studs





Checking crankshaft end play





Rouse Racing NASCAR timing chain fitted





Dialling in the cam using Lift at TDC method





General cleanup of current AFR185 alloy heads





Setting valve spring height using spring micrometer





Heads installed and setting Jesel rocker to ascertain correct rocker geometry





Checking final rocker geometry





All done and ready for injection and paint job

Here’s a series of various install pics.

Engine built and fitted the injection and time for a paint, so first the undercoat. I always paint my engines for various reasons. One they look better but it also allows for easy identification of any leaks etc but mainly as I do a lot of beach driving it helps to keep seawater rust at bay.



All done and a quick trial fit of accessories.





At this point I was planning on swinging it in the next night but got stuck on considering whether I should take the opportunity to give the engine bay area a spruce up as the paint was now a shade of pink rather than Mica red. Procrastinated for hours and eventually decided I’d better do it otherwise I would always be kicking myself. As it involved a lot of preparation I also couldn’t make up my mind whether to get my painter mate to come do it properly or just do it using cans etc. But spraycans it was so first a quick clean and prep and hit it with undercoat.

You can just see the colour difference of the red front right guard compared to the engine area which is a faded reddish/pink.



Undercoated



Done





Fast forward and its now in



My rad was now 15 years old so I decided to get a new one for this engine and decided to try an alloy rad. It has the same surface area as my old one being 450mm wide and 500mm deep but its thinner being only 32mm thick and a single core. I don’t espouse to the theory that thicker is better and am more than confident that this smaller rad will still keep things under control no problems.





Fan fit. The bottom section of the viscous hub is about 20mm from the rad so overall clearance is great.



New A/C condenser and revised fans now permanently fitted.



About now I had another spaz attack as the discoloured top rad support and guard area were getting to me as the rest looked spiff so I masked it up and gave it a shot



The front done with the aircon fitted along with the winch.

BEFORE



NOW :D



Also gave the winch a service.

BEFORE



NOW :D



Underside of winch showing air holes in my custom winch cradle that match the factory body holes etc.



Before getting to finally mounting the radiator I had to make a new shroud. Even though it's fairly large it took me days to find the fibreglass shroud floppy I made back in 1993/94 so it shows what a mess my parts shed is in . I knew I wouldn't have thrown it out and finally found it and did another shroud from it.

The basic rule is the fan needs to be 2/3 in and 1/3 out of the shroud.



Next was to slope the shroud as the fan sits on an angle at the rad so the bottom needs to be shorter to maintain this 1/3 clearance etc. Initially I was making it as a one piece unit but went back to two piece so as to be able to access the fan a lot easier by being easily able to remove the top section.

I am really happy with this complete frontal redesign as I have so much easier access to everything than the original design. The rad is also positioned a lot better being a tad thinner so there is now heaps of clearance between the rad and air condensor whereas before they were touching, yet I never had heating issues and why I am confident that even with this smaller rad all these issues will mean it will be just as efficient and possibly even colder



Finished the rad shroud and the rads now done.









All finally done.







Previously I just had a hole in the cover and squished an o ring on a capscrew head but because of the vacuum and the small head sealing they leaked air so I used to just fill them with selastic .

But I've had the cover machined to now use a special cup that has a machined V shape on the underside and the o ring is now squished into this V shape around the bolt and it should seal perfect.











I wasn't happy with the original design so I revised it and also added a quick removable MAF section





The plastic cover I made to hide the various wires, cables and the fuel pressure reg.









I actually started it for the first time last Sunday but the belt is slipping badly on the P/S pulley so I’m currently fitting an idler pulley to give it more contact. Once I’ve done a few miles it will be going on a dyno to have the ecu retuned to suit the various additions.

JD

Man this build is awsome

Love you work, keep it up

injection setup looks NUTS!
make it all yourself?
should definatly pull mate, out of curiosity what stopped you from fitting a 5.8 windsor?

Yep, I made the injection.

It would have meant getting new custom extractors made as clearance is an issue and the injection would be obsolete as well . But no real point as the 347 will be enough and it already fits

Last edited by ozrunner on Mon Apr 06, 2009 3:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.