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| 79 raven |
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Alright going to replace the harmonic balancer on the Nc. I have read my manual and it says when installing the new balancer you do not need to bash it in but by tightening the harmonic bolt ( in the centre???), it will pull it into place? I have only ever done one harmonic and that was on a 202 out of a Vh commy..... and that was pressed so I needed to get a piece of wood and belt it into place, so I am uncertain of the Nc 5L. I dont want to take the pulley off and inspect unless im doing it so I am a little blind. I also just want to know what im in for. Help would be appreciated. The details of the car a 1993 Nc Fairlane 5 litre.
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| Sturmovik |
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You can just tighten the bolt to install it.
Only issue is the front crank seal, I assume you are going to replace it? Thats the hardest part in this, ive only done it with the timing cover off the engine.
_________________ 1993 ED XR6 5speed Polynesian Green. Project car. |
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| 79 raven |
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{USERNAME} wrote: You can just tighten the bolt to install it. Only issue is the front crank seal, I assume you are going to replace it? Thats the hardest part in this, ive only done it with the timing cover off the engine. If its not leaking now, is there a chance it will leak after the balancer is done or is it just best to do while the harmonics being done? |
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| Nigel |
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If you are going to do this, then perhaps consider replacing the whole timing cover and water pump as well.... just for good measure
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| 79 raven |
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{USERNAME} wrote: If you are going to do this, then perhaps consider replacing the whole timing cover and water pump as well.... just for good measure Timing cover and water pump was done by previous owner about 3 months before I bought her ( so about 5 months ago) and the pulley is not warped, its just there is the slightes shimmy on the harmonic's turn and I want to do it before it needs to be done and then I will be up for a new water pump. Purely preventative measures, the harmonics not bad right now though. Its the weight that moves sorry, was told the seal between goes and its just and I mean just slightly off true. |
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| Nigel |
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Good answer.
Even on your holden - there was an option to have a bolt in the crank to hold the balancer, but it just wasnt dont (at least from VC onward). The NC's definetly have it. means that after you undo the bolt, and use a puller to remove the balancer. Change the Seal (its cheap, just insurance), then install new balancer. The Bolt can be used to pull it right onto the crank. Just need to make sure that the engine isnt turning over while you do it. You can remove the starter and just bind the flywheel somehow (screwdriver), or find some other way. Cheers Nigel |
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| The Panel Van Man |
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YOU CAN PUT THE ENGINE ON COMP NO 1 REMOVE THE S'PLUG TURN THE MOTOR BACK A TAD AND PUSH SOME NYLON ROPE [NOT TOO THICK] INTO PLUG HOLE. THEN TURN MOTOR FORWARD IT WILL LOCK AGAINST THE ROPE. DON'T LAUGH ITS NOT ROUGH & IT WORKS. REGARDS TPVM.
SALT IS FOR RACING ON. SAUCE IS FOR FISH & CHIPS.
_________________ SALT IS FOR RACING ON. SAUCE IS FOR FISH & CHIPS. |
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| 79 raven |
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Thanks guys, I guess you chock the flex plate because when your tightening the bolt the crank will want to turn, right? The manual said to either put in park and chock the back wheels or remove the starter and so on.... might do both to be sure. Will go the seal. Cant believe the have a prostreet harmonic on f**k bay for $165 + $22 ( for efi one) +$22 postage, Supercheaps cheapo was $275?????? Even if it give no gain what so ever from the "pro street" one it still cheaper. I am glad I dont have to remove the radiator though, should take about an hour or 2 to fit instead of 4 +. Thanks again guys
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| TerroristGHIA |
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Or you could wedge your socket and bar with the rail and then just crank it. This will loosen the bolt enough to remove it. Dont let it start though, just a quick turn of the key is all that is needed.
Brett
_________________ The Terrorist ED Retired due to RUST. |
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| Sturmovik |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Or you could wedge your socket and bar with the rail and then just crank it. This will loosen the bolt enough to remove it. Dont let it start though, just a quick turn of the key is all that is needed. Brett Did this on mine with no dramas at all. Took three flicks of the starter and that loosened it
_________________ 1993 ED XR6 5speed Polynesian Green. Project car. |
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| One Drone |
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If it doesn't leak now and looks ok I wouldn't replace the seal; that's harder to do that the pulley altogether. As for putting the pulley on, the motor shouldn't turn having it in park(in gear manual) with park brake engaged. Torque it up to correct spec; I'll look for it and post it later. Too tight and you could stuff up the cranks thread.
_________________ There are 10 types of people in this world. |
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| sooty72 |
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ummm, the motor WILL turn of the trans is in park. It runs in park, doesnt it?
Just get a rattle gun and do it up, if the motor turns, then worry about it. It would be easier to remove the inspection cover and grab the ring gear from there, f**k pulling the starter out. Make sure you replace the front seal while your there, the new balancer on an old seal will leak like a politician. 
_________________ Yes, I own a Ute. No, I won't help you move! |
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| One Drone |
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When the keys are not in the ignition, doesn't the auto lock itself up when you try to move it when it's in park?
_________________ There are 10 types of people in this world. |
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| 79 raven |
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The one Im looking atsays the following in the description
Pro Street Harmonic Damper feature **Nodular Iron Construction- Most cast dampers are manufactured form grey iron castings. Nodular iron is over 30% stronger then grey iron. **Bonded Elastomer- Outer ring & inner hub are bonded (vulcanized) to the elastomer. This minimizes the potential for the outer ring to move on the hub, losing true TDC position. **Removeable Counterweights- Externally balanced models feature bolt in counterweights, making it easy to switch from an externally balanced engine to an internally balanced engine. ** Precision Balanced- Dampers are machined & precision balanced. **40deg of permanent easy to read timing marks. I have seen a standard harmonic for $175 new but this one is going to cost me $205, is it worth the extra or is the pro- street one for a stock Nc 5L going to be money wasted as I dont understand all of the description, sorry guys but you input is VERY needed. All that is planned for the Nc donk performance wise is extractors and maybe underdrives in the future. |
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| Steady ED |
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{USERNAME} wrote: When the keys are not in the ignition, doesn't the auto lock itself up when you try to move it when it's in park? it only drops a pin into the output shaft. the torque convertor doesn't lock up. if you turn the engine over, you'd still be spinning the torque convertor. {USERNAME} wrote: The one Im looking atsays the following in the description Pro Street Harmonic Damper feature got a link to that balancer? it's not from sydney speed supplies is it? i would go a powerbond balancer, you can get their "street" version for under $200 brand new. part number is (off the top of my head, so check it) PB-1084ST.
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
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