Hi all
Well Im hoping someone can point me in the right direction to sorting my pile of s**t out.
A month or so ago I fitted a set of GT40P heads and an Edelbrock Performer RPM II manifold to my lane.
I had the heads decked 30 thou before fitting. I dont know if they were previously decked and if so by how much. The edge of the inlet valve is nearly level with the deck face if thats any help.
Camshaft is standard.
The standard 58mm throttle body and 19LB injectors and MAF remained.
From this point on it was a total b**ch to start when cold. Cranks and cranks , coughs tries to start eventually and will eventually get running if the battery doesnt go flat first. It can take 5 mins to get it running.
Once the car has started it will be fine and fire up after a couple of cranks when warm.
Then I fitted a set of AU 24LB injectors , 70mm Ford Racing throttle body and an AU MAF fitted with 19LB electronics.
Still has the same issue.

The car is running AU irridium plugs , the ignition is standard NF with a MSD Cap , rotor and coil , new TFI module and leads.
The problem doesnt seem as bad when the car has been on the battery charger over night.
The battery and alternator are new and working correctly.
The issue is only there when the car is stone cold. It wont start after it has been sitting there all night , but once it is running it is fine.
I have tried everything and it is sending me frigging insane!

ANy help is really appreciated!

Hey mate

Im Having similar issues with my EF Mont 5ltr. I think my problems are due to a crack in the head gasket on a water tunnel - im not exactly sure though. So everytime I crank it over there's water going into one of the cylinders and the fuels not igniting properly. And even when running its only running on 7 cylinders.

But yeah I have the same issue as you - extremely hard to start when its cold but is fine once its warm. I find if I put my foot to the floor while cranking it over it usually starts heaps easier.

So my question is did you do the gt40's yaself or get someone else to do them? Perhaps (and don't get me wrong if you did them yourself im not tryin to question your mechanical ability) but perhaps the head gasket has been broken - even slightly somewhere??

As of monday im just going down to supercheap and getting some powdered head treatment to put in my radiator just to seal up any cracks in the head or gaskets.

Hope I may have been some kind of help.

Cheers
Grant

mines the other way around.... its easy to start when warm, but takes a bit to start when hot

Check inlet leaks.. Even the PCV, fuel pump hose... Any air leak between MAF and engine will cause lean fuel issues.. Run the plug gap at minimum till sorted.. .8 instead of 1.1mm or so...
Did you fit the rockers correctly ?? With taking meat out of head you have effectivley lengthened the pushrods.. The rockers MAY need shiming ???
Or fit some adjustable roller rockers...

Grant.
All good mate , I question my mechanical ability myself half the time............... Im not too bad for an electrician.
Yeah I put the top end on myself.
Funny you should mention about coolant leaking. I wondered the same myself very briefly but then dissmissed it. It is making the same noises as a flooded cylinder and is only happening after it has sat for a while. Also it only started after heads and manifold were changed.
The header tank drops slighty over time , no signs of overheating etc but it is definately something to think about.
I think I might go down tomorrow and grab a bottle of seal up myself. It cannot hurt things at all.
If that does help I will have to get the system pressure tested.
Matt

Hope that's your problem mate as its an easy fix im hoping its my issue too . . . I also found when I use the heater the car overheats yet will run fine if I don't use it. Maybe its coz it uses more water or something while heaters on im not sure but after I get the head treatment hopefully all will be good

Cheers
Grant

All seems ok as far as leaks go. It aint running lean. Its actually very rich. I am having a chip tuned for it at the moment.
Set the plug gaps at .9 today so will see how that goes.
I fitted the rockers according to the manual. I thought it was weird that they just said to torque them down when evey other V8 I have done them on I had to set the rockers at a certain point , do 4 of them , rotate the engine and so forth.
The manual just said to torque them down and didnt give any form of sequence.
Can you fix me up with the info on setting them correctly? Its something else to look at.

as the manual says with loctite on threads,you using 1.6\1 pressed steel rockers,did you check the oil grooves and radius for wear,was the piston below the deck.on my rebuild i used flat tops just below the deck and phils heads serviced and shaved,xr8cam,i was out 1 tooth on the distrutor a few times to get the advance right,when i got it, fired straight away.shorted the plug out and set timing to 30 deg to run it in,then had air locks in the cooling system,added a new bleeder in the block.as stated you may have to shim the rocker posts,did your valley fit nicely and gaskets seated ok,selastic bead on the front and rear of valley,gaskets dont do it well.mine starts on lpg cold at 0-5 deg mornings,get about 7 cranks on battery,but starts on 2-3,what gaskets did you get-brandname.

Is the TPS under 1V at idle ?? Maf connections good ??
Is there coolant leaking into manifold over night ???
Check coolant leaking in EGR housing or disconect coolant hoses
to it ...
Take plugs out when it doesn't start and check there condition...
Fuel lines connected right way around?? Same with coil ??...