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| Littlefoot |
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Hope that makes sense.
Man I'm feeling greeeeen, feels like I'm a 1st year apprentice 
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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| Disco Frank |
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littlefoot
google portmatching it was xr9 ute has done, well i think he has! you basically open the ports to the same size as the gaskets and no more if you are unsure get someone who knows what they are doing to either do it for you or explain in great detail
_________________ RIP SCOTT |
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| Littlefoot |
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{USERNAME} wrote: littlefoot google portmatching it was xr9 ute has done, well i think he has! you basically open the ports to the same size as the gaskets and no more if you are unsure get someone who knows what they are doing to either do it for you or explain in great detail Yeah, I definitely need to make sure I get it right, maybe I'm way in over my head  I really want to do it though, a lot of what i know is self taught/reading. Engine modifications like this (and ecu tuning but that's another story  ) are the whole reason I'm into cars! I've done fun stuff like fitting turbos, doing engine swaps etc etc before but this is unfamiliar and highly sensitive (to error) territory! I'm not skilled enough yet but I don't want to pay to get it done, not because of cash but because I want to learn. Problem is, everyone I know in the trade in my area are more scared than I am and wont show me how.
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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| XR9UTE |
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Lets put it this way...my name is not Sam.
27mm is the width. Port height is not touched...there's no benefit in doing so. The ports match more or less exactly. |
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| XR9UTE |
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That's my 220 intake I took pictures of Frank. That's the factory porting and Sam was obviously the engine builder.
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| Littlefoot |
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Due to time.. or lack there of. My adventures into porting have been some-what-non-existent.
 I spoke with a well known performance dude in Adelaide (I wont name drop... yet) who said that porting won't do much if anything unless a lot of other work is done. He did say he could do some work on the valve "seats/shape" which gives a worthwhile improvement. Unfortunately he couldn't put a hp figure on it. However the figure I COULD get was the $400 - $700 cost to do the work. This might be a new thread but what do you guys think. Is it really worth it doing this, anyone have any experience?
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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| Shortshift |
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For those, like myself, who are happy to put in the hours I think it is worthwhile to start a thread (or keep this one going). There's still a lot of these heads out there, and spending $1800-3000 for some quality alloy heads is not in my budget. Still need a home made flow bench though to test your work.
The other thing that you have to factor in is what size valves you want to use.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| XR9UTE |
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The problem is, doing all that work will still net you heads that don't come up to par with even un-ported ally heads. Plus you'll likely spend the same if not more money on parts and machine work to get an inferior result.
Still, it can be a fun experience. |
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| Littlefoot |
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I've already paid to have them milled and pressure tested I'm not sure if it's worth an extra 400 - 700 for some valve work.
I just don't know what the gains would be Either way** I'm keeping the stock valve sizes
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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| XR9UTE |
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Ah well the valves will be strangling anything you try to do. You need to go 1.94 intake and at least 1.5 exhaust. Good valves will cost a bit and then you have to do a good 3 angle seat cut anyway. I'd get some quotes on the machine work needed before you go any further. Otherwise you're just wasting your time and money.
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| Littlefoot |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Ah well the valves will be strangling anything you try to do. You need to go 1.94 intake and at least 1.5 exhaust. Good valves will cost a bit and then you have to do a good 3 angle seat cut anyway. I'd get some quotes on the machine work needed before you go any further. Otherwise you're just wasting your time and money. It's an au200kw head so it doesn't have the bigger valves like the 220's. If those valves are gonna choke it, I would agree it might be a waste of money like you say.
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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| xafalcon |
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At 200kW the untouched GT40P heads are still some way from their performance limit, so I would optimise the other components. This doesn't cost a fortune and you will get a good performance gain without loosing drivability.
Get the standard cam reprofiled to about 218 @ 050 duration & 520 thou lift on the intake and 222 @ 050 duration & 520 thou lift on the exhaust. Don't go any bigger lift, the heads don't flow any better at higher lift than this. Keep the lobe separation angle around 114-115°, which helps keep it stock EFI friendly. Replace valve springs with a Crane Cams 44308 kit, they work well with Yella Terra rockers in those engines. Get pushrods of the correct length - stock may be OK, but expect +050. If heads have been milled by 20 thou you may be OK with stock pushrods, 10 thou is generally not enough to avoid the need for longer pushrods. Measure lifter pre-load to decide. Use a JP steel double roller timing set designed for the 5.0 EFI engine. New gaskets where necessary No tune really needed, if you shop around the total parts cost is around $600 including cam reprofiling
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| BOTTLEDUP |
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I agree with the other sentiments here, unless you know what you are doing, and are prepared to run larger valves plus enlarge the throat areas ( along with a 3 or 5 angle seat) you will achieve nothing. Just waving a flap wheel or grinding stone at the ports will not improve airflow into the cylinder 1 bit, this is not the restriction in a GT40P head. A proper port job on your intake manifold and a revised (read larger) cam profile will achieve a lot more than anything you can do to the heads yourself.
A friend's AU 5 litre made 291rwhp using stock 200kw GT40Ps with a valvespring upgrade, ported Explorer intake & a Comp XE276 camshaft.
_________________ TE50 T1 P01 |
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