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| Littlefoot |
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Hey Fordmodders
I've got some time and patience to spend on the GT40p heads tomorrow... I also have a dremel  I'm going to sand the intake ports rough by hand but has anyone taken some restriction out on the exhaust sides with dremel/grinder bit etc that could give me pointers? Now, I'm not going to start chopping in like a mad scientist without proper advice... or am I?? mwhahahahahahaaaaaa 
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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| NLGHIA5.0 |
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If you just go hogging out it will more than likely result in less flow. Shape is more important than size. Not 100% but i know there are some porting guides on eectuning.org, but the might be manifolds and not heads. Either way do plenty of research to know exactly where to remove material or you will probably make it perform worse.
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| TROYMAN |
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if anything I would be doing the intake side before the exhaust side..
also using sanding drums with a dremel will be a long slow process. if your using a dremel get some carbide burs for it and use the sanding drums for final work.. I port matched my intake manifold and it took 4 hours to do 8 ports using carbide burs on alloy, if I used sanding drums or grinding stones ill still be doing it..lol |
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| snap0964 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: if your using a dremel get some carbide burs for it and use the sanding drums for final work.I port matched my intake manifold and it took 4 hours to do 8 ports using carbide burs on alloy, if I used sanding drums or grinding stones ill still be doing it..lol My Taurus dremel from Aldi had a flexible attachment - very useful for this kind of work - ditto re the stones and sanding drums - was a long job even on alloy, and the stones wear down in no time also. 80 grit flapper wheels do a good job of general smoothing out dags on alloy - cast iron might be another story though. Do all this stuff before you do other machining work, e.g. valve seats, gasket face. Start and stop your tool before exiting a port - very easy to nick valve seats, etc. There's a bit on here by Tickford_6 and Wagondad re the I6's, probably a lot can be applied to the V8's. Above all - do your research, and it's not til you're into the job that you realise how long it takes.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Littlefoot |
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Good thing I ran out of time today before I went all port crazy. Only just got the timing cover off to pull the cam out... .....cam is still in there
 lol. There's a good guide on the net called DIYporting which focuses on GT40ps and says the no go zones but I'm not sure if it gives me complete confidence. The best way would be to have an example head to go by
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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| 66 coupe |
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work out how much its going to cost you in burrs/scrolls/time and also to get the heads dipped, faced and valve seats cut, it might be more cost effective to buy a set of allys?
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| Littlefoot |
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I've got all the gear I need, the heads have already been milled and the valves removed, cleaned and pressure tested. Around $400 in total. Less head gaskets, I won't spend any more.
I'm only looking to do some light work on them, out of fascination, maybe smoothing a few edges here and there if it improves flow etc etc.
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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| cjh |
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Port matching is worth it.
Cast iron heads take forever to do.....It took me about 20~24 hours to do a pair of 308 heads, and that was just a quicky. I was using an electric die grinder with carbide burrs. It took me nearly 3 months to do a Honda CB900F head. Basic rule is don't remove any from the floor of the ports, just enough to smooth it. The style of porting that I do is Velocity Porting. Gaskets are a great guide to use. Alloy heads don't take long to do.
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| XR9UTE |
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If you have an actual Dremel? It isn't going to be enough....you'll be there forever.
A die grinder is what you want and an air powered one with an exhaust at it's tip is ideal. This way it blows all the swarf out of the port. Short tungsten carbide burrs can be used for a port match but you can also get 6" long ones to reach right in there but controlling them is more difficult. |
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| Littlefoot |
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Quote: If you have an actual Dremel? It isn't going to be enough....you'll be there forever. A die grinder is what you want and an air powered one with an exhaust at it's tip is ideal. This way it blows all the swarf out of the port. Sorry XR9UTE. I was assuming it was a Dremel. My mate who I'm building the motor with has all the gear at the garage. He explained he has all the bits I'll need to do the ports but hes not familiar with where to remove material on GT40p's. I'm not sure either but... gotta start sometime   (he cant be effed either way as he works on 5 cars a day so it's all up to me lol)
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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| Littlefoot |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Port matching is worth it. Cast iron heads take forever to do.....It took me about 20~24 hours to do a pair of 308 heads, and that was just a quicky. I was using an electric die grinder with carbide burrs. It took me nearly 3 months to do a Honda CB900F head. Basic rule is don't remove any from the floor of the ports, just enough to smooth it. The style of porting that I do is Velocity Porting. Gaskets are a great guide to use. Alloy heads don't take long to do. I'd love to give it a major go, I guess the problem is I need an example head or some very specific diagrams. Having a 220 head nearby would be helpful as they had port work and I could just copy parts of it. I've noticed with what I've read so far that they mention to work the upper "left" section of the ports or it will decrease flow, as you mentioned (don't remove from the floor of the ports) It's a bit of an ask, but do you have any guides/pictures I could use? 
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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| TROYMAN |
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the only port work I could see on the 220 heads were only around the opening of the port area on sides only to match the manifold and manifold was ported the same.
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| Littlefoot |
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Cheers TROYMAN
So I guess it's a question of, how much to take off and how far? 
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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| XR9UTE |
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Here's some pics of the intake....
The ports measure about 27mm across. The scribe lines are still there from the gasket outline. {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} |
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| Littlefoot |
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XR9UTE you are a legend! Can't thank ya enough mate!
So confirming, that's done by factory for the 220's or was that one of your jobs? Is it just 27 across or is there some taken off lengthways also? I'm trying to visualise it, do the intake ports on the head match it exactly? Or .. how do I describe it... Do they have a smoothed lip where it meets the intake but the heads port size is narrower.
_________________ It's always funny until someone gets hurt. Then it's just hilarious. |
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