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| 3x-puursui7 |
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if u need them inserts i can get them from work i'll just need to know wat size bolt and thread pitch eg; m10x1.5 or 3/8 unf
i was wondering wat sorta puller they were using to do this damage as pete said. cos all the ones i've used just have a centre rod it reacts off and 2 or 3 arms to go around the pulley?
_________________ mmmmmmmmmmm 220 manual goodness! |
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| gogetta |
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{USERNAME} wrote: same thing happened to me, and same story from the mechanic palming the blame on another.  More like the balancer was a b**ch to get off, and they kept turning the puller when it was threading the crank, instead of stopping. And make sure they use a puller thats long enough to utilize all the crank thread for more strength when they refit the balancer {USERNAME} wrote: A Balancer puller doesn't engage the crank thread so unless they used the wrong tip which was too small in diameter to sit on the taper before the thread it can't actually damage the crank thread.
yeah i couldnt understand what FordFairmont meant by his post....to get the puller off you dont need to touch the thread other than to first undo the bolt
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| needfordspeed |
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See if you have any of those mobile thread repairers around your area, they can work wonders and should be able to help you out
_________________ 1988 EA S-Pack|MPI|LSD|AIT turbo manifold|Garrett GT3540|3" Exhaust turbo back|Resprayed|microtech LT8s|60lb Injectors|Bosch 044 with surge tank|3000 RPM stall|Ported AU head|Wade turbo cam|Crow double valve springs|1.3mm MLS headgasket|C4 conversion|Built bottom end|10.6@125MPHi |
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| banarcus |
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Nice way to drag out what would've been a simple job.
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
{USERNAME} wrote: A Balancer puller doesn't engage the crank thread so unless they used the wrong tip which was too small in diameter to sit on the taper before the thread it can't actually damage the crank thread.
whoops my mistake, in my case the new balancer was a b**ch to get on i meant. And the importance of using a bolt longer than the factory one to push the balancer on to engage more of the thread The car was handed back to me with a stripped crankshaft thread and my new balancer not fitted and was basically told to sort it out myself 
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| XR9UTE |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: A Balancer puller doesn't engage the crank thread so unless they used the wrong tip which was too small in diameter to sit on the taper before the thread it can't actually damage the crank thread. whoops my mistake, in my case the new balancer was a b**ch to get on i meant. And the importance of using a bolt longer than the factory one to push the balancer on to engage more of the thread The car was handed back to me with a stripped crankshaft thread and my new balancer not fitted and was basically told to sort it out myself I think that's most likely....and they probably are s**t you about it scaffy. They probably let some lacky do the job who didn't get the balancer far enough on before crankin on the bolt. Have a close look at how many threads are damaged. If it were overtightened in the first place then all of threads would damaged deep into the crank. Of course they could have done that too...by the same lacky!? |
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| Scaffy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: A Balancer puller doesn't engage the crank thread so unless they used the wrong tip which was too small in diameter to sit on the taper before the thread it can't actually damage the crank thread. whoops my mistake, in my case the new balancer was a b**ch to get on i meant. And the importance of using a bolt longer than the factory one to push the balancer on to engage more of the thread The car was handed back to me with a stripped crankshaft thread and my new balancer not fitted and was basically told to sort it out myself I think that's most likely....and they probably are s**t you about it scaffy. They probably let some lacky do the job who didn't get the balancer far enough on before crankin on the bolt. Have a close look at how many threads are damaged. If it were overtightened in the first place then all of threads would damaged deep into the crank. Of course they could have done that too...by the same lacky!? Pete, they told me about it when they took it off because they said it came off way too easily. They didn't think it was going to be that bad a fix due to the thread on the bolt looking fine. Only when it came to putting it all back together is when the severity of the problem has came to light. I have no doubt some lacky somewhere along the line has gone and f**k it.
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: A Balancer puller doesn't engage the crank thread so unless they used the wrong tip which was too small in diameter to sit on the taper before the thread it can't actually damage the crank thread. whoops my mistake, in my case the new balancer was a b**ch to get on i meant. And the importance of using a bolt longer than the factory one to push the balancer on to engage more of the thread The car was handed back to me with a stripped crankshaft thread and my new balancer not fitted and was basically told to sort it out myself I think that's most likely....and they probably are s**t you about it scaffy. They probably let some lacky do the job who didn't get the balancer far enough on before crankin on the bolt. Have a close look at how many threads are damaged. If it were overtightened in the first place then all of threads would damaged deep into the crank. Of course they could have done that too...by the same lacky!? Pete, they told me about it when they took it off because they said it came off way too easily. They didn't think it was going to be that bad a fix due to the thread on the bolt looking fine. Only when it came to putting it all back together is when the severity of the problem has came to light. I have no doubt some lacky somewhere along the line has gone and f**k it.
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| green car |
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Simple scaffy,who did the balancer? make them f**k pay to fix it.
_________________ 165 Killer Wasps all packaged in a green kmart car, almost an explorer in a way... |
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| Scaffy |
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Yeah green car, if it were that simple. It could have been these guys or it could have been the people who worked on it last time. I'm not about to jump to conclusions and can't be f**k arguing with anyone. Hopefully I can just get it fixed... or... drop a 363 bottom end in there!
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| 66 coupe |
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have you ever tried taking a bolt out thats cross threaded?? far from 'came off too easy'
they are full of s**t - they either damaged it using the puller or they damaged it putting it on! |
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| banarcus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: have you ever tried taking a bolt out thats cross threaded?? far from 'came off too easy'
they are full of s**t - they either damaged it using the puller or they damaged it putting it on! Thats exactly what I reckon. It is not a hard job! How about going to the workshop and having a good look at the bolt that 'came out too easy'. I can't believe how someone can stuff what it is a very simple job.... |
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| Scaffy |
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I don't get home til Friday. I've got a 45min chopper flight, then a 2 hour plane flight, so unfortunately can't go looking at it just yet.
Thinking back, I'm pretty sure when it was at BPT they said there was an issue with that bolt as well, from before they touched it. Anyways, all I want is to get it fixed. I could start harping on and carrying on like an idot, but bottom line is, I can't prove that anyone did s**t. I understand that taking a bolt out that's been cross threaded isn't an easy task, but in this case the bolt hasn't been cross threaded. What I've been told is that it's been over-tightened, stripped the thread inside the crank and appears as though it's been put back in again. This could be true, or any of the other theories could be true. I'll speak to them again tomorrow as when I spoke to them today they had someone who'll be fixing it with the helicoil. I mentioned to them the keensert and thety said they'll check it out and work out which will be the best option. Hopefully it'll be done by Friday so I can driver her.
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| EBXR8380 |
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If its been over tightened which I highly doubt.. The whole thread will be bad and that's almost impossible on a thread that size..
I would say the outer 5 or 6 threads are stuffed . Could try drilling these threads out and running a tap through... I often leave this bolt loose but in place to break initial contact when removing.. Yes it means taking puller off and back on twice.. Yes as said double check puller fitting where is contacts crank.. The tapper fitting...
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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| 66 coupe |
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overtightened.... lucky its not a toyota diesel, torque on the balancer bolt is around 350nm !!
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