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| Scaffy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: overtightened.... lucky its not a toyota diesel, torque on the balancer bolt is around 350nm !!
I'm not too sure what you mean by this mate as most of this s**t means bugger all to me. I'm not a mechanic and am not at all mechanical minded... I'm just a dumb-a*** scaffolder/rigger. I've got no intention of arguing any point in here with anyone. I just need my car fixed. Should I get a crank out of a Toyota diesel so I don't run into this problem again? 
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| 3x-puursui7 |
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well i went to the workshop today to see if a keen-sert would be suitable and i think it wouldn't be a problem. the bolt slid the whole way in only slightly touching the threads on the way, but being a fine thread bolt it's not hard to knock the top off the thread and it's buggered although it should be able to handle more torque, someones buggered up but as chad said thats not the point now. hopefully i can fix it tomorrow if i can get a hold of the parts.
Is the torque for this bolt around 100nm(73ft/lb?) doesn't seem like much for a 5/8 unf bolt, but if thats enough that'll do.
_________________ mmmmmmmmmmm 220 manual goodness! |
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| Scaffy |
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A keensert was installed by someone who knows how to use them and when tightening it all up, it's just pulled straight out of the crank with very little effort. It looks like my car is going to sleep for a little while until I work out what I'm going to do. Here are a few of my options...
1- Pull it out and throw a new crank in there and get it back on the road. 2- Try and find a cheap enough stock motor and just swap it out. 3-Find someone out there who has a 347 short block for sale. 4- Buy a short block assembly from one of the hundreds of workshops in the States. 5- Get all the parts and get engine built over here by a local workshop. If anyone has or knows of any 302/347s laying around, I may be interested in buying one!
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| 66 coupe |
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theres always devcon
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| Scaffy |
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What is devcon?
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| s-tranzor |
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Thats bites bigtime Scaffy
 Sorry to hear... Looks like those 347 plans are indeed accelerated then hehe.
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| hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: What is devcon? retap the thread the next size up 11\16 or 3\4 unf,just have to open the hole in the balancer so the bolt passed thru it,it just holds it on and the key does the work,you may have to turn a drill down on the drive end to fit a angle drill,but can be done,its just time.
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| Scaffy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: What is devcon? retap the thread the next size up 11\16 or 3\4 unf,just have to open the hole in the balancer so the bolt passed thru it,it just holds it on and the key does the work,you may have to turn a drill down on the drive end to fit a angle drill,but can be done,its just time.You lost me after opening the hole in the balancer.
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| 3x-puursui7 |
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there's plenty of room for a drill bit and 90deg drill to fit, the hole was tapped out to 3/4unf then keensert put in with a 1/2"unf bolt to hold it but the whole keensert pulled out! i have never had this happen to me before even on aluminium although the bolts are only 3/8 and not getting as much torque.
The next option is to go one size up with the keensert which means the original 5/8unf bolt can be retained but more drilling and tapping required but i dunno how much meat can be taken out of the nose of the crank....
_________________ mmmmmmmmmmm 220 manual goodness! |
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| fairy v8 |
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if your gonna do that why not do as Hans says and retap the crank out to the next bolt size up ?
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| 3x-puursui7 |
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it will be?! but then it will be using a 7/8 bolt which you would have to drill out the washers hole aswell, and i cant remember how big the hole in the balancer is to allow for the larger bolt head to fit with a bigger socket.
_________________ mmmmmmmmmmm 220 manual goodness! |
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| green car |
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Scaffy the only way for it to be done in the car is to try and loctite a helicoil in there,like the other dude said.
I have used helicoils plenty of times and they always have worked for me,you will have to remove the radiator and stuff to get access when you have to drill it out. It can be done and it is most likely the only way. What is a keensert and do you drill the hole bigger to fit it? Make sure the bolt is brand new also.
_________________ 165 Killer Wasps all packaged in a green kmart car, almost an explorer in a way... |
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| s-tranzor |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: overtightened.... lucky its not a toyota diesel, torque on the balancer bolt is around 350nm !! I'm not too sure what you mean by this mate as most of this s**t means bugger all to me. I'm not a mechanic and am not at all mechanical minded... I'm just a dumb-a*** scaffolder/rigger. I've got no intention of arguing any point in here with anyone. I just need my car fixed. What he means is it is f**k tight!! 
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| hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: there's plenty of room for a drill bit and 90deg drill to fit, the hole was tapped out to 3/4unf then keensert put in with a 1/2"unf bolt to hold it but the whole keensert pulled out! i have never had this happen to me before even on aluminium although the bolts are only 3/8 and not getting as much torque. use some loctite 680 on the thread insert,will hold and fill in gaps,if you tapped 3\4 unf,then use a new insert and glue it in,loctite 680 needs heat-over 600F to release its grip,holds bearings and drive couplings in industrial uses,we also use helicoils the same way,they dont strip with impact guns.if the 3\4 unf thread is ok.then drill the balancer hole to fit that bolt,or try the insert coil again-i think dont go over 7\8 unf on the insert outside thread and try to keep the 5\8unf bolt to hold the balancer,give the loctite over nite to set---will set faster,but will be set like a rock,clean the parts with thinners or the loctite cleaner-accelerator,we do this a few times each day and works.
The next option is to go one size up with the keensert which means the original 5/8unf bolt can be retained but more drilling and tapping required but i dunno how much meat can be taken out of the nose of the crank....
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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| 3x-puursui7 |
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na the 3/4 thread is knackered aswell it pulled the thread out of it. these keenserts dont require the use of other stuff for them to hold in as they have 4 tabs u push in to lock the insert in there, and they are way stronger than a helicoil because the insert is longer. its up to chad where he wants to go next i spose
_________________ mmmmmmmmmmm 220 manual goodness! |
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