Hi,

Worked hard after hours all week - Pulled motor last thursday night, and had car running yesterday arvo (friday)....

I have the Series 2 XR8 Motor (XH). Installed TFS1 Cam, Rollmaster timing set, GT40P heads (with larger 351 windsor valves), Crane Double valve springs, Adjustable 1.6 ratio Yella Terra RR's, (as a result of that - new valve covers - which are taller - so then plenum chamber didnt fit - so then a heat spacer).....

Also running 70mm BBK throttle body, 24lb injectors with matching 78mm Pro-M MAF.

Car started first go, but very lumpy and rough idle. Ajusted timing to around 34 degrees (30 degrees is factory??)

What timing should i be looking for (if i advance any more car "POPS" when i floor it)

Using LOTS of fuel - about 22-25L per 100kms according to my Trip computer....

Should i expect fuel consumption to get better with ECU learning?? or i need a unichip of something??

I've got a big flatspot about 1/2 throttle...

Im not sure if i would need adjustable fuel reg.. (my maf is calibrated to my injectors)

Sometimes car stalls under hard braking or going from park to reverse/drive. I think i may need a stall convertor to get best performance from this cam!

BTW did everything myself with little help from mechanic mate - so i learnt a lot! Just those points im curious about! please let me know what u all think/comments!

Thanks!

BTW, forgot to mention -

The heads have bigger 351 windsor valves fitted.

Pistons had to be notched with notching tool (so i didnt have to pull bottom end apart) - this was the biggest delay in rebuild - waiting for the tool.

Oh and the cars been driven around 100kms. So maybe i need to drive more? Should i be flogging it or taking it easy?

The TFS1 cam is a lumpier idle compared to many others anyway so even when its running right, it'll be lumpy.
Is your TPS voltage adjusted correctly ~ 0.9v or thereabouts? What's your AF ratio - you might be running rich?

have you got factory ecu or aftermarket installed sounds like you may need to play with the fuel air mix and ajust the idle factory ecu's will only learn so much so you may need a piggy back ecu
sounds like you have a beast on your hands dont go thrashing it drive it easy and take it for long runs up and down hills sitting on different speeds like 100km/h for 30mins then drop 10km/h for 20mins then increase to 120km/h for 40mins keep doing that and you will run the engine in nicely drop the oil at 1000km and give it some fresh stuff if you start thrashing you will kill the poor bugger you got to free the engine up

The TFS1 shouldn't be too much trouble for the factory EEC calibration.

You wont need an adjustable fuel reg.

Do you "know" that MAF and injector combo works OK? Had you tried it before on the car? If not, try the original injectors and MAF again, and see if it drives any better.

I am running a Crane 2030 with stock EEC (a touch bigger than TFS1), and I get stalling occasionally after hard braking too.

How did you adjust timing to 34 degrees? I assume you mean total timing right..?

You are only able to set the "base" timing by turning the dissy, and I think from the factory that it is 10 degrees.

You may want to double check this...

Also, make sure your TPS voltage is between 0.9-1.0v at idle.

Just a quick question about this, how is it a touch bigger - I mean in what sense?

More lift....actually I just checked the specs, and the TFS1 has more duration @ .050 than the 2030.

Crane 2030 - 216/220 duration @ .050", .533"/.544" valve lift, 112 deg LSA
TFS Stage 1 - 221/225 duration @ .050", .499"/.512" valve lift, 112 deg LSA

Base timing is 30 degrees, can only be done in base idle mode. If you experience a bit of pinging at WOT knock it back a ocuple of degrees to about 28 degrees....this is the only timing that mine wont ping or backfire/miss and i've got same combo as you know.

Fuel consumption seems high, i'd get it on the dyno to check A:F ratios and then possibly put a unichip or equivalent to get a tune going - this is what mine is lined up for asap.

After a fair few 1000 kms mine stall every now and again after harsh braking so it is definately in the upper limits of what the ECU can handle.....TPS if it is off doesn't help and you may want to bump up base idle if it doesn't cope too well.

Stall converter will only help get it off the line when you plant it.....it wont do anything for the idle or stalling issues.

Dyno is the only answer to tell you how its running, should be making roughly 180rwkw if all in order and A:F ratios of about 12.8:1