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| Scaffy |
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No, I haven't had any dramas with the fuel rails yet. With this kit, you shouldn't have a problem at all. Surface rust shouldn't be an issue, though. There's definitely no vacuum leaks anywhere?
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| bluestripes |
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{USERNAME} wrote: No, I haven't had any dramas with the fuel rails yet. With this kit, you shouldn't have a problem at all. Surface rust shouldn't be an issue, though. There's definitely no vacuum leaks anywhere? Possible vacuum leaks. Sprayed engine with areospray which appeared OK... Though 1 of the lower manifold bolts was not even hand tight. Have order another top end gasket kit to go through and re torque top end. Another thing, mechanic changed the lower intake bolts for Allen keys. I think I might change them back to standard bolts for correct torque readings. Re your short engine... Is it a stock 302? Mine is a 302 recon from eagle engine with a 0.030 overbore... Was thinking at a latter date to stroke my old block to a 331... For what I am chasing is a high torque street engine and not sure 302 will deliver.
_________________ AU Ute ~ R350 |
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| XR9UTE |
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Cap screws won't affect the torque settings.
Also check alignment of the intake to head face....Trick flow have had problems in this area. 4 out of 5 TFS intakes I've been involved with were incorrectly machined from new. Also just be aware... A mate of mine bought a 351w from the same place you did and it had overheating problems. They denied the engine was more than .030" over but when he pulled the heads it was .060" over and had significant core shift...he told them and they told him to f**k off. So much for the 12/20 warranty. |
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| bluestripes |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Cap screws won't affect the torque settings. Also check alignment of the intake to head face....Trick flow have had problems in this area. 4 out of 5 TFS intakes I've been involved with were incorrectly machined from new. Also just be aware... A mate of mine bought a 351w from the same place you did and it had overheating problems. They denied the engine was more than .030" over but when he pulled the heads it was .060" over and had significant core shift...he told them and they told him to f**k off. So much for the 12/20 warranty. Maybe a dumb question, though what I am i looking for when i check for intake/head alignment, and if out how to correct??? Seriously - i am a backyard mechanic... ( no shed ), If weather holds this weekend im planing to strip down top end and re torque. I also read that its incorrect to use gaskets in the lower north and south intake manifold valley... to sue sealant instead. SO now i will look for alignment issues. Re - Eagle short engine /not happy thus far. On purchase i was not informed it was an overbore and engine arrived damaged.... this is part of the reason why i want to re stroke my old block to a 331, and get a snappy low torque engine. I know the big trend is for the 347... and the cost is the same - but i just think the 331 will be a better Daily driver.
_________________ AU Ute ~ R350 |
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| XR9UTE |
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Ok basically....you're looking for an even gap all round between intake and head face. So with no gaskets in place check to see if the intake faces are flat against the head faces and that includes the front and rear of them. If you notice anything obviously different here then you can start to measure any gaps with feeler gauges.
I wouldn't use cork end gaskets, I'd use silicone on it's own or, the original silicone rubber end gaskets also work well with some silicone in the corners. A 331 is likely slightly more durable in the long run but at the end of the day it does give up some displacement. Do a 408w instead  sorry I can't help myself. 
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| bluestripes |
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Cheers for all that.
I was hoping for the gasket set to arrive today from Summit, as it's already overdue... Oh well. Another question if you have time.... Regarding back PVC hose on the south end of the lower intake manifold, the last mechanic has it running into the oil breather, though the dyno guy said that's incorrect, that I need to run the PVC hose back into the top manifold. So under my top intake there is to outlets side by side. One outlet is running to my charcoal filter and the other outlet is capped off. Do you think this is where I would connect lower intake PVC hose? ( sorry bud - it's a bit of a high tech question)
_________________ AU Ute ~ R350 |
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| XR9UTE |
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If it's the right size for the pipe then yes. It's a good idea to run it through an oil separator of some type because the factory setup doesn't trap enough oil and it gets drawn into the intake. That'll be why some guys run into an external breather but, you're supposed to return it back to the intake.
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| bluestripes |
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Thanks again.
Looking now at Rocket industry catalogue for oil separator, may go up to Bursons to see what they recommend. Cheers
_________________ AU Ute ~ R350 |
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| Scaffy |
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I was running my kit on a stock bottom end. It's now all out of the car and a 347 is under construction.
One thing to keep an eye on is the gasket between upper and lower intake. When we pulled mine down, the gasket was fouling each of the ports by between 5 and 10%.
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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| bluestripes |
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Just an update, fitted the Haltech Interceptor and only made 230rwhp... which needless to say was very disappointing. Car prior to chip was making 223rwhp so i only gained a lousy 7.
Spoke to Trickflow who said - If you are only making 230 rwhp with that kit you have issues somewhere in the tune or the bottom end is weak and not making good compression. Right now it > should be in the 300-310 rwhp range. MAN - this is stressing me out. Feel the right thing to do is pull the whole engine out and start again, re - degree cam, check lifter high, check compression... for now Im just chasing tail. One thing the dyno flagged, was cam sensor... so I've order a new cam sensor shaft and will see how that goes. Not happy 
_________________ AU Ute ~ R350 |
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| XR9UTE |
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Have you got a dyno sheet showing air/fuel ratio over the rev range and can you verify the spark advance over the rev range?
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| bluestripes |
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No air / fuel reading or such. I just recieved power torque dynolog reading.
I will be seeing him tomorrow and will ask if he has it on file... So if he has, what am I looking for? Also, I'm going to do a engine compression test over the weekend and make sure that Eagle recon block is ok. But I've still got that cam synchronizer glitch, for something at low revs the engine just cuts for a split sec... So I've got items on back order from Summit. Bosh 02 sensors, AIC sensor, Cam synronizor shaft....which don't arrive till 25th this month. Other than that, even though HP is down, it's still got heaps more go than the stock engine... Revs out easy... I reckon if I can just find that missing power I will be happy. Otherwise I need to stroke old block to 10.5.1 compression, stage 2 cam and trick flow r series manifold... But than I just worry it will have to much go for a daily driver.
_________________ AU Ute ~ R350 |
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Make sure you have correct length plugs !!
I was down about 20 RWKW when my engine was N/A.. It had the shorter E7 head plugs which lowered comp and didn't help spark, combustion...
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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| bluestripes |
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Ok - so I stripped down upper manifold and value cover a few weeks ago for pcv issues ... So if I go again for lower intake and I find its out, do I need to machine or just fill with goo?
I even noticed woody on ford stoker hitting these issues
_________________ AU Ute ~ R350 |
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| bluestripes |
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Forgot last post - I was in super heap auto buying compression gauge and replied to wrong post!
So may I ask - what plug are you using now ?? I noticed that trickflow recommends plug .0750 in.... So I ve got a set of NGK platiums on my next summit order.
_________________ AU Ute ~ R350 |
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