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ef302 |
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Apparently my engine/car has some sort of electrical short which causes electrolysis within the engine... This causes corrosion of softer components like aluminium. In this case, the timing cover. A small hole (about 1cm square) has resulted in a massive water leak into the engine and now my motor looks like a wedding cake!!
The car is at Mick Webb's workshop, and even he has no idea how to remove this crap. Obviously it is a mixture of water and oil, but it is impossible to remove! Mick has tried all his industrial solvents and cleaners and even just blasting with a high pressure cleaner, all to know avail. Anyone with any (helpful) ideas please share!!
_________________ Have YOU driven a monster truck lately?? Last edited by ef302 on Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:32 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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stockstandard |
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wtf?
Id strip and hot tank it.
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
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SpuDTE |
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man that is not cool...and hafta say, never seen that before
has it actually corroded the metal parts? or is that cream stuff just a layer on top of the metal?
_________________ Formerly SpuDEF |
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ef302 |
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The cream stuff is what the water and oil turned into... the corrosion was of the timing cover...
_________________ Have YOU driven a monster truck lately?? |
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ef302 |
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xf_man |
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Age: 46 Posts: 624 Joined: 21st Mar 2005 Ride: Triton ute BA Futura Location: Woori Yallock |
Mayonasse anyone?
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66 coupe |
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yeah its very common for the windsors to do timing covers and also intake manifolds due to the corrosion.
Id be looking into what coolant was used, id recommend using the genuine ford coolant as it does reduce the corrosion, unlike the tectalloy and other cheap crap coolants. |
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twr7cx |
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I read in a PWR catalogue about electrosalis causing premature failure of there aluminuim radiators.
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66 coupe |
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yeah with ally radiators and the like, you need to have them at the same potential as the engine block - ie either use the conductive hoses or run an earth wire from the radiator to the block.
All late model cars with ally rad's have conductive hoses to reduce electrolysis |
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ef302 |
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Coolant was just changed... Full Ford Service, so hopefully they put the genuine stuff in. Paid enough for it!!
_________________ Have YOU driven a monster truck lately?? |
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4.9 EF Futura |
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Nasty!
Mr landau had some good pics of a timing cover. His thoughts were that the material had been cavitated? Sucks that they cost $800 new from ford.
_________________ I promise..... I will never die. |
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66 coupe |
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Either that or it could have been a pourous casting - if its not that old are you able to make a warranty claim?
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MacGyver |
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It's gonna be hard but heating is probably the way to go. Unless the coolant and oil have reached a critical point either chemically or by extreme heat and have changed chemical composition, you should be able to heat until the water evaporates and the oil returns to some resembalance of normal.
I would scoop some off (you seem to have enough to spare) and heat it to see what happens. Hopefully the water will change to steam and you will be left with an oil/glycol mix that will flow. Otherwise a chemical bath may be the only option. cheers Scott
_________________ If it doesn't fit, jam it. If that doesn't work use a hammer. - Engineers Motto |
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66 coupe |
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nah its too far gone, for it to be mixed like that and have a sump full, its had water in the oil for a while. you will find its in need of a rebuild as the bearings most likely are burnt or pitted due to the water, and it would also be through the lifters etc.
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Walker |
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Jesus titty f**k christ Matt, i've seen some cream up but i've never seen it to that extreme.
Usually i change the oil and throw cheap s**t oil in and run the motor warm and drop it, but it wont work with that lol. Time to start scooping and scraping, buy a few bags of rags and spend a few hours on it... After that i'd be pulling it down and going through it. |
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