i have the 165kw verion in the xh and i havent done anythin major to this motor but im planing to build up an au motor but for now i wanna squize a bit more out of em just wantin to know what some ppl have done. not sure if there is a thread on this aleady but i havent found anything.

so far all ive done was first up rebuild and work the auto as i lost 1st and 4th and was slipping majorly. 2 and a half grand later i got a pretty tuff auto that is very responsive and i can manually shift it.

only engine mody ive done is the basic repalement of plugs, leads and ignition modual, match ported the manifold, pod filter in the front bumper sucking cold air, 24lb injectors, adjustable fuel reg and bigger fuel pump, and most recently i put extractors on it and its opened it up alot( still need to put the cats back in and get a new tail pipe)

next thing im thinking of is under drive pullies and possibly a better coil and cam and gear drives

all im aiming to do with this motor is get it reving quicker and pull a bit harder i just need some more power to break traction on my 20s in the dry. in the rain is just to much fun. my motor does seem to consume a bit of water and it does leak a bit of oil. its pointless doin to much work to this motor without rebuild so thats why i want a new motor ro build up so im lookin for some basic mods to get it goin a bit harder before its days are up

also wondering if anyone has modded the rear suspension to contol the body roll and the occasioanal understear

You've pretty much got it nailed by your post. I would get underdrives, 1.7rr or a cam out of a 200, better ignition and have the plugs regapped/get a tune.

oonly problem with ther roller rockers is that i gotta get em to suit the head so if im upgradin the heads on the next motor they wont be any good. if i can find stock roller rockers( if i can find any??) it would be a slight improvent and quite it down a little well maybe. with the cam im guessing i can still use it in the next motor so it will be a fairly decent one. once i got some good bits on ill sort out a tune and im not sure about plug gaps yet i spose it depends on how good the ignition is those msd 6als look tempting is there much else to offer. there is a chasy dyno jus round the corner from my place i wouldnt mind throwin my car on to see if its got much more then the stock figure well it will be at the end of the list

my next motor i want to have stroked andsupercharged im likin the idea of like a eaton say m112 sittin ontop of a high rise manifold carby style, injectors bunged into the runner ive sussed out the have a bit on the casting where they can be drilled out. not sure if ill benifit from an au motor as il be upgrading the heads anyways, cam and all valvetrain only reall bonus is the ignition




also i want to updrage the diff my lsd only works best turning left and also goin around corners with speed gets it lockin up but still. full spool would probably be best fix but not exactly legal. whats the details on the diff is it a 28 spline 8.8 inch or somethin. anyone used a helical tyoe? all gears no clutch packs

For the diff, get in contact with 4wd systems and get one of their Lokka's, I have one in my XR8, and a few mates have them in E-Series, they = win. The AU Ignition system can only be used with an AU ECU, or aftermarket.

If you plan on a build with a stroker crank and a supercharger, then you'll be in the market for a new block regardless. Perhaps look at doing a mild 5.0L for now with some good parts, which you could sell off as a runner when you are ready for your next build.

AU220kw engine with a tune and cam swap will make ~260rwhp, add some alloy heads and you'll get near 300 at the tyres.

how much are the lockers? is 4wd systems a buisness that sell this gear? where bouts are they.

so if i get an au motor will i need all wiring harnes plus computer? the only reason i was consider stroker is beacuse i would be basically giving the motor a refresh at the same time plus upgrading and preping it for more power. new everything on the inside. but idealy i still want the supercharger even if im just running 10psi maybe a tad higher im not chasing max hp 300 to 400 hp would be fine

i dont plan to destoy my motor im currently using yes just some mild work to keep things interesting. its done like 250 000 ks plus and it doest miss a beat probably lacks compression a bit and sometimes goes through water but ive incresed the sealing pressure on the rad cap and its holdin up a bit better even tho its run down to like half a radiator of water it doest even over heat. i dont even bother with coolant

Sort out your cooling issues. Where is all the water going. does it have a blown head gasket. If you dont you will need a new motor long before you are ready for it. is the Rad split, do any of the hoses leak, what about the heater core.
Check these first.
As for your motor being tired, mine has similar kays, has half of the compression it should have but made a respctable 274rwkw on NOS at my last dyno day
Brett

there arnt any signs of blown head gaskits, oil is fine, no bubbles in the water. im only expecting the worst from a motor with this many ks. i cant see any hoses leaking, ive replaced the header tank as it split the botton hose conection. hoeses seem to be fine one has swollen up a bit and ill wll eventually replace it. when running i cant see any visable leaks. there is no smoke coming from the exhaust either. hen i do the cam im goin to replace the water pump aswell. the only leak ive seen it had was when i put the intake manifold back on it started leakin at the back but then it stoped???? im not sure if its weeping from there but thats all i can think off. i went for a drive to northside brizzy the other day ofter i moded the rad cap and its barely lost any water as it would normally do just normal driving. i will be checkin the compression soon to see where its at


cheers for all the imput btw

Get rid of the 24's...you don't need them and reducing the fuel pressure to compensate is a bad idea.
Get the underdrives, a Crane Hi-6 or similar, forget the geardrives, bump your base timing to 32-33 degrees max, a 65mm t-body(NO BIGGER).
When you get the AU engine to build up, chuck the 40P's away and get some AFR165's.
It will be easier to use your current EEC and harness and just swap your current distributor ignition into your new engine along with the early style harmonic balancer and front dress.
If you want a positive displacement blower use the Kenne Bell kit for a '94-'95 stang and adapt to fit.

i got the 24 lb injectors and cranked up the fuel pressure as i was having issues with it starvin on fuel and pingin under load i even tried differnt ignition timing, less ping and no pick up in power

If that's the case something is seriously wrong with your fuel system. Look for a blocked fuel filter and/or buggered fuel pump you may even have a stuffed hotwire on your MAF too?
Have you done an EEC self test?

the markings on the harmonic balancer for the timing are very faint and i can use a timing light. i usually set my timing driving olong one of the back roads here just trial and error untill it seems right. im probably best to get a new ballancer tho i think i can pick up a powerbond one cheap thru a mate

no i havent done a self test i dont no how to do that. i have had it checked at the mechanics for error codes tho nothin has come up. i have replaced the fuel filter also. i had isues before with the original fuel pump. ive cleaned inside the maf a few times before when it was running real bad and that fixed it up but i dont no y it has been starvin on fuel. i couldnt figure it out so i cranked up the fuel pressure to keep it safe

When upgrading change diif gears as well you have 28 spline axles which are tuff enough and chances are 3.25. unless xr8 3.5. get a set of 3.7/3.9 will be a noticable upgrade. I have 4.1 and love it but wouldnt recommend them to anyone using the 4speed Auto.

My moneys on a little hose leak, on one of them behind the upper of the HO....so many god damned coolant hoses on the Windsor...