|
| TickXR |
|
|||
|
OK i have decided i'm not going to molest my original tickford motor so i will be looking for new block for my stroker
Now after certain aspects of late model blocks have been bought to my attention i realise i am better off using a different block than the ones the EF came out with I have thought about using an older 70 series block and having a retro roller kit put through the motor to bring up to our spec but was wondering how would i go legally in doing this? Worse case scenario is buy aftermarket but i don't really want to spend that much on this motor Any ideas?
_________________ If you don't do it whilst your livin, you aint got no bloody chance when your dead!!! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| -clampy- |
|
||
|
the old mexican blocks are the ones. i duno how to identify em tho.. if not then maybe getting a new block mite be in order.. the A4 i tihnk it is?
_________________ current ride: worn out chuck taylors |
||
| Top | |
||
| Jim Beam |
|
|||
Age: 35 Posts: 3505 Joined: 1st May 2005 Ride: EB Fairmont Location: Northern Suburbs, Adelaide |
Id go a Dart Iron Eagle block.
If i remember correctly they can handle 2000+ HP
_________________ Doin it for Scotty. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| xr8ute |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: I have thought about using an older 70 series block and having a retro roller kit put through the motor to bring up to our spec but was wondering how would i go legally in doing this?
How much power do you (honestly) expect to be making? All but the most extreme n/a setups should be fine with the later model HO block. If it is that extreme, then the $$$ for a Dart block will be only a small percentage of your total build cost. An early 70's block would be stronger than the HO block, but I wouldn't stress over it too much. |
||
| Top | |
||
| TickXR |
|
|||
|
HP wise not really sure what i will get but motor will be turning at around 6500+ rpm
The cams working range from memory peaks around there somewhere Just want to be sure i get it right the first time as don't want to pull it out again because of a stupid block issue
_________________ If you don't do it whilst your livin, you aint got no bloody chance when your dead!!! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| xr8ute |
|
||
|
RPM's are not a block breaker on their own, and 6500rpm is not especially high for a windsor.
By all means, go with an early 70's block if you can find one OK, and dont mind the extra cost of the link-bar lifter kit. But again, I wouldn't stress about it. |
||
| Top | |
||
| XR9UTE |
|
||
|
Mexican blocks have "Hecho en Mexico" cast into the lifter valley. They also have a pair of approx 1" diameter iron knobs sticking out from the front of the block on each bank. If the sump is off you'll notice they have solid 289 Hi-Po style main caps.
Tell us the intended specs of your engine...you may not need to go for an earlier or aftermarket block. Pete. |
||
| Top | |
||
| TickXR |
|
|||
|
general spec
scat stroker crank and rods forged pistons around 10:1 comp cams 2500-6500rpm (from memory) pro top line heads edelbrock Victor manifold 42lb injectors Still haven't decided on cam this is the problem We may go to next grind up and fit car with 3000 stall and this will take motor closer to 7000rpm level
_________________ If you don't do it whilst your livin, you aint got no bloody chance when your dead!!! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ltd351T |
|
||
|
most of the block failures you see are in stock engines, having a decent forged crank reduces the load that is placed on the block as the crank doesn't flex as much.
fitting a main girdle helps reduce the chance of cap walk and it also holds the bits together in case of a terminal failure. anything over 500hp and you are pushing the block past its design limits, many turbo engines break the blocks from 400rwhp upwards, n/a engines or supercharged engines making the same power levels would be more prone to block failure. who knows if you really need one? if its just a street car probably not. |
||
| Top | |
||
| XR9UTE |
|
||
|
What stroke?
Which Pro-topline heads? 2500-6500 rpm for a cam spec is meaningless..what are the actual specs? Is the Victor a carb type intake or the EFI version? Pete. |
||
| Top | |
||
| aber_run |
|
||
|
Are you allowed to put older engines in newer cars? or can it be disguised?
|
||
| Top | |
||
| XR9UTE |
|
||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Are you allowed to put older engines in newer cars? or can it be disguised?
An engine block is only part of an engine. As long as you have the required EFI parts on it, the engine number is irrelevent. Besides if you souce a mexican block from the U.S. for example it has no engine number...so you just stamp your original 5.0 one on it. |
||
| Top | |
||
| aber_run |
|
||
|
ah ok
|
||
| Top | |
||
| TickXR |
|
|||
|
Well it's official
There's a new block on the way 
Will give details out once i get it and take some pictures Damn my bank account took a blow though 
Reason for this block is i have always wanted to have a blown V8 so this motor is now getting built with this in mind although it will be another 6 months or so before s/c kit gets put on
_________________ If you don't do it whilst your livin, you aint got no bloody chance when your dead!!! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| xcabbi |
|
||
|
What block did you get? Dart or World ManOWar?
Would you have ever considered grout filling part of the water jacket in the stock block? |
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 26 guests |
