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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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Hi guys, well I haven't had time to get much done with the car yet, still running like crap on the standard ECU.
Quick question, the car faults into a lean condition like clock work about 1km up the road after every start, hot or cold. What would cause lean running, electronically speaking? Fuel, plugs etc. check out OK. Does a faulty MAF cause the car to go lean. I would have thought a dead MAF would run rich to protect the engine? Thanks, Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| XR9UTE |
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Hows your HEGO ground?
Done a self test? |
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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Hows your HEGO ground? Now THAT is a good question! Something's telling the EEC that it should lean things right out about a minute after every start. I replaced the two HEGOs about a year ago, but I'll check the ground when I get a chance. Getting home after 9 every night, weekends too wet and crappy to brave the carport lately. Say, a blocked cat would cause an O2 sensor to read funny at start up, right? But it would richen the mixture if the exhaust temp was too high wouldn't it? {USERNAME} wrote: Done a self test? Admittedly, no. Tried it a few years back, couldn't get a peep out of the test light. Car wouldn't high idle either after jumping the pins when trying to set base timing. Weird. Thanks, Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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Hi guys, car still a bit grumpy but have had to deal with a stuffed S5 solenoid in my 11 month old tranny, a new radiator and d**k central locking....sheesh.
ChipTorque STILL haven't returned my ECU, so my big question right now: does anyone have a dead EF/EL V8 ECU I can grab? The auto elecs are jumping down my neck as they want the old one returned (it was an exchange basis) to their supplier for recon. Thanks! Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| XR9UTE |
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I've got one or two but they ain't dead.
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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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Well, I finally had some time to get the car onto a dyno this morning. It looks as if at least one of my HEGOs is dead and it's my fault!
 It seems at this stage that I've used the wrong type of silicon sealant when relocating my intake temp sender from the manifold to the intake tube and it has killed the sensor! I do have a couple of spares, so if our heat wave isn't too bad on the weekend, I'll swap them out and see what happens. Interesting that two other scanners didn't pick up the HEGO fault codes. BTW, it said bank 1 was faulty, is this the left hand HEGO?The mixture was getting as low as 18:1- wow! The good news is that everything else seems to be good. It was also running a little too advanced so it was knocked back a tad and despite the wonky mixtures at times, is going a lot harder now. Another thing is that after my S5 trans solenoid replacement, the box is shifting really hard. It's awesome for performance, but I'm getting whiplash. Does the trans computer control this, or is it a manual adjustment that needs to be done? The trans guys reckon it's my ECU doing it, but I think they are trying to palm it off. Cheers, Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| banarcus |
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Re the auto shifting hard, my auto in my old statesman did that for a while before it settled down, maybe 300km or so. Can't comment on BTRs as I've never had one repaired.
BTW, you do not need to have the engine running to extract fault codes from the ECU. Bridge the far left top and bottom terminals and hook up a analogue multimeter to the 5th top pin from the left or use a LED. Turn the key to ON and away you go. They are 3 digit codes on the EF/EL ECUs. It isn't hard and will take away some of the headscratching and guess work. |
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| wrexed03 |
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Check the TPS if the lower has been filed and not adjusted correctly. This will cause harder shifts. If its dead probably will cause the same.
Regards |
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| TUF250 |
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does the lower one still need to be 0.99V at koeo?
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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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AFAIK, they both have to be 0.98V? I got both of them smack on 0.98V. I got a couple from the wreckers just to try them out, so maybe the lower one is shot. But damn, kickdown to first is hard, but the car really hammers when it does.
39 degrees out there today, so I won't be working in a hot engine bay just yet.  Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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Hi guys, resurrecting this thread from the grave as the saga continues....
 To cut a long story short, the engine burnt a valve and went down to 40psi on cyl. 5. I have sourced some GT40P complete heads and the car is in the workshop back up and running BUT the injector on cylinder 3 isn't firing. We've tried two reco'd ECUs. Both show no injector pulse on no.3. The mechanic put his little injector test light thingy on the plug and no go. Before you say it must be the loom, he is convinced that it is OK as all others are pulsing OK. Same old story, new dizzy cap/rotor, coil, plugs, leads, fuel pump/filter, TFI, ECU, O2 sensors, new extractors, cats, reco injectors.... It can't be the dizzy as it is only no.3 not working. A dodgy Hall Effect sensor would cause intermittent problems over all cylinders. The car starts instantly with good compression but settles down to a lumpy idle after a minute or two as no.3 isn't pulsing. Mechanic is sure the wiring and plug to no.3 is OK, but the test unit was showing a compete flat line on the injector when probing the ECU direct. All other cylinders are perfect which rules out dizzy, fuel pressure, coil.... Any ideas, it's driving us nuts! BTW, got my ECU back from ChipTorque and the car won't even start (seems like massive advance when cranking) with the chip plugged in. Unplug it and the car starts straight away. So that ECU is fine without it. I find it unlikely that both new ECUs I have would be faulty running injector no.3? Cheers, Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| XR9UTE |
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When you say he is convinced the loom is ok "because all the others are firing" is that his reasoning? Has he actually tested it? When you say "flat lined" is the flat line high or low? ie a 0v or 12V flat line?
I'd be actually checking the harness has continuity between the EEC and injector connector. Plus you need to make sure the pin hasn't been or, doesn't get pushed out of the EEC connector or the injector connector when it's plugged in. Use a multimeter to actually make contact with the connector pins rather than use a noid light that still relies on the pins staying put in the connector. Another possibility(although less likely) is some kind of aftermarket device fitted by a f**k who has picked up the injector drive wire for power instead of injector power. I fixed a car with just this problem once. Even less likely is that the encoder wheel in the dizzy is missing the tooth associated with cyl 3. Once again I have fixed a car that someone had widened the signature pip tooth so that is was the same as all the others, therefore the EEC would lose it's way and wouldn't know where #1 was and would run like a bag of s**t. |
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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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I'm not too sure on his reasoning, but he's pretty confident that there is continuity between ECU and plug after spending a lot of time on it. Not sure if he put the meter on it while I wasn't there, but the noid light definitely wasn't on when I saw it. I think it's the plug like you say, but that must have been checked, I hope. He was aware that sometimes the pins get pushed out of the connector, but I'll make sure he probes the wire direct to make sure.
There was a zero voltage flat line on the meter display, zippo, nothing. Probed right at the ECU connector harness. The injector harness would run a common ground, not individual ones to each plug? The dizzy is still the original and from what we could see, all the teeth were OK. I thought maybe a worn bearing, but that would be an erratic signal, not precisely on no.3. The possibilities have been narrowed right down, so hopefully tomorrow will be up and running. Cheers, Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| XR9UTE |
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Ok the injectors are low side drive ie; the EEC grounds the injector to turn it on. Therefore the other side(the red wire) is injector power which is common to all the injectors. So with the ignition on there will be 12v on the red wire of the injector connector. He will always get 0 volts on the drive side(the one that goes to the EEC) of the connector because there is no voltage there unless the injector(or test light) is plugged in. So when he checked it at the EEC connector was the injector or test light still plugged in?
To be absolutely sure; It's best to actually check the resistance with a multimeter, between the actual injector connector pin back to the actual EEC connector pin for #3. |
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| milo 302 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Re the auto shifting hard, my auto in my old statesman did that for a while before it settled down, maybe 300km or so. Can't comment on BTRs as I've never had one repaired. BTW, you do not need to have the engine running to extract fault codes from the ECU. Bridge the far left top and bottom terminals and hook up a analogue multimeter to the 5th top pin from the left or use a LED. Turn the key to ON and away you go. They are 3 digit codes on the EF/EL ECUs. It isn't hard and will take away some of the headscratching and guess work. How did you find out the procedure to check for ecu fault codes? Sorry to go off topic a bit 
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