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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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I believe that the noid light or injector were plugged in when testing, KOEO if I recall correctly. He must have tested at least some of the others to isolate the problem at no.3. He showed me the graph when probing a couple of other wires and there was plenty of juice to those injectors. No.3 was dead as a doornail.
You are correct, it has to be a continuity or resistance issue to that plug alone. No doubt high or low resistance on those particular wires could tell the ECU to shut it down? Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| XR9UTE |
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The EEC won't shut down anything...they are linear drivers. If there is high resistance or open circuit it simply won't be able to drive it. With high resistance you would still see a slight drive signal but if you see nothing I'd say it's open circuit.
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| EBXR8380 |
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Check BOTH sides + and - are working..
The - [earth] operates injectors.. Try a wiggle test...
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| XR9UTE |
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Jeez ebxr, don't tell me you're not reading my posts either!?
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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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OK, quick reply and a thank you to all who took the time to help me out- cheers!
 Car is up and running. It was a broken wire to injector 3. The whole injector loom is pretty crispy after 15 years of sitting right on top of the motor, no surprises there. I'm still running the HO manifold on the GT40P heads, but now with the existing mild cam, Genie headers and some new high flow cats, it's making some nice power with a pretty fat torque curve. Hasn't been tuned on the dyno yet, but there is a definite power gain and it sounds really meaty. One thing, the soon-after-hitting-the-road power drop seems to be still there, but much less noticeable. I'd guess it still decides to run a little lean for unknown reasons and then clear itself. I could feel the ECU compensating for it a couple of times tonight. I might look at the fuel regulator next- not much left to change. I'll keep you posted. Cheers, Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| XR9UTE |
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Ah good! finally! make sure you don't put the stupid hot plate back on because that's the biggest cause of f**k engine harnesses.
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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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Nope, that's been off for years!
Hopefully the next dyno will sort that little lean-running gremlin, but I'm pretty happy with the new power.  Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| XR9UTE |
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Bloomin marvelous!
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| EBXR8380 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Jeez ebxr, don't tell me you're not reading my posts either!? Sorry.. Missed your post... Reminds me of a auto elect who though he knew what he was doing.. While working on my car way back...# 5 injector wasn't working. It would flood and hard to start on cold days leaving the house.. He had connected it to ISC ... This was after SEVERAL dyno pulls and tunes.. Sheesh !! Prick didn't even want to come around and check his work !!!
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| SPArKy_Dave |
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Just a tad of thread mining here, but................
I'm currently starting on a quest to solve the very same problems with my EL Windsor. It's driveline is 100% stock, and I have learnt one VERY important thing so far......... If the auto trans gear position switch / inhibitor switch is faulty, then the ECU will NOT let you run the KOER test. My current fault codes are - 327 - EGR voltage low. 172 - HEGO bank 1 lean. |
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| CPOCSM |
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Hi there - I reckon you should investigate the EGR issue again, even though it is buried back in the annals of this thread. I had exactly the same issues with the EB XR8 and changed nearly everything you did with no success. I then saw a stain on the EGR plate and saw it was coolant when I wiped it with a damp rag.
I sourced some new gaskets from a mob in Melbourne(including the EGR valve gasket itself)and replaced them on the week-end. Went from slug to super in a day and really made a big difference. I looked at the lower intake manifold and saw very heavy carbon buildup due to the coolant dripping into the airstream. I see you have bypassed this with yours; however, it could still be letting air into the intake as well which will cause the same symptoms. The burnt valve more than likely was caused by this. Mine were heavily coked and getting to the burn stage as carbon was igniting in the combustion chamber on every firing stroke, causing all sorts of issues including pre-ignition. For $23, it is worth doing and I would strongly recommend re-connecting the water to the EGR plate... See how you go and let me know if you want the supplier of the gaskets. Hooroo |
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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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Thanks very much CPO, it's been a while since I updated this thread! Yes, my car still runs lean hot or cold after every single start, but only for about a minute or so until the ECU says enough and things are back to normal for the rest of the drive. I got the TAFE auto guys to put the scanner on it and got the engine lean code. Its an EGR fault apparently, and they think the diaphragm might be leaking eve though it holds vacuum. I'm.planning to pit a new one on with gasket so will report back. EGR block is disconnected, should I put the hoses back on?
Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| CPOCSM |
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I think so - I was told by the lekky expert here in Woombie that the computer takes a reading from it to set the idle I believe. Most just screw the idle out until it stays steady at idle but it will still hunt the 500-1000 rev range. Replaced the gaskets and it sits happy on 650rpm all day and cranks after less than a second. It idles at 900rpm for about 30 seconds then drops to normal and doesn't hunt anymore. A bonus is the A/c system wont stall the car anymore as the leak was made worse when the car was put under any load!! Now I have a brand new AC system also and it is like the frozen tundra in the car - again happy as a pig in poo!!
As I said in my post regarding my EB XR8 woes, turned out the bad fuel didn't help and after draining 50 litres out of the tank manually and replacing most of the fuel/ignition system in the process of sorting my issues. Again I thought the worst case in the problem and worked from the most to the least expensive(a*** I am!!)so the $20-odd part fixed the issue and I am a very happy camper again. I now have a virtually brand new system in VDO 20lb injectors, new fuel pump, new lines, new filter, cleaned tank, new dizzy and module, new MAFF, new injector loom, new hoses, new iridium plugs, new headers and exhaust, new O2 sensors, new leads, new rotor button and then the new EGR gaskets!!! F**k I am a fool - do it every time. At least I know it won't have an issue anymore!!!  Hooroo and good luck with your car. |
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| V8 Ghia Mike |
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Hi guys, been a while, bought a new house and have been very busy discovering the joys (and cost!) of tropical garden landscaping...
Still have the EF, been trying to keep it neat and tidy with the most recent work being the replacement of most of the suspension bushes and ball joints. The steering gear really needs looking at as I have a lot of slop at the wheel. Has anyone experienced an annoying squeak right behind the steering wheel when turning it? I've had a good look and pumped WD40 in there with no success. But my main issue is still, STILL, the hot/cold start leaning out issue which clears itself after a km or two of driving. If I hit a hill right after starting it, I can feel the ECU compensating with power surges every 10 seconds or so trying to correct the lean issue under load. Car always starts easily, will idle normally for about a minute, then runs very lumpy and stally for another minute or so until the (new, standard) ECU kicks everything back to normal until the next start. Like clockwork, every time, hot or cold. I'm now looking at replacing the EGR valve (have resealed all the gaskets around EGR spacer, TB etc.) but am having trouble finding a new one anywhere. The code on mine is A58 F3AE-9P483-A28 but can't seem to find a replacement. I'm assuming the 94-96 Mustang EGR has a different part no. Can anyone help out suggesting a compatible EGR from the US that would suit? Also, she's running a bit rich these days. I replaced the HEGOs a few years back, but might try a new set. Again, help with a compatible set would be appreciated if anyone has been able to source a cheaper set from somewhere. Cheers, Mike
_________________ EF Ghia 5.0 - XR8 in a tuxedo....classy, low and loud |
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| XR9UTE |
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Hi Mike,
You want an '86-'93 mustang EGR valve like this; http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-egrvalve-8693v8.html But I wouldn't, Just make a block off plate and take it off if you think there's a problem. That way you haven't wasted money on one and will eliminate the vac leak if the valve itself is faulty. Sounds like the problem occurs when in closed loop. Did you ever check that the HEGO ground was good? Got any fault codes? Pete. |
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