Hi all done a bit of a search but not finding much.
I got a el xr8 cheap its a auto looking at putting the engine into a xp but want the old school look.
Just woundering what will need to be done to get the holley sniper or something similar to work?
Looking at a mild cam aswell.

Cam?
Manifold?
Ignition system?
Will anything need to be done to the auto?
Cheers for any help.

If you really want to get rid of the EFI intake, and go with a Sniper or similar, you will need an intake manifold, like maybe an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, a distributor, and the Sniper system.

You should be looking at around $2100 for a Sniper kit, $550-odd for the intake, and allow $1200 for an MSD Pro-Billet, Coil and 6AL, and a set of leads. I saw a Sniper kit recently at Performance Wholesale - might be worth a call.

If it is a Hydraulic roller lifter engine, a cam and lifters will run to $1500 or so, plus all your bits like gaskets, chain, oil pump, etc.

You will need a trans ECU to run the 4-speed auto, but double check it will fit in the XP tunnel before you get too deep into it.

Don't forget, if you are getting rid of all the front dress, pulleys, etc, and want to use the old-style stuff, with just an alt and water pump, you will need to change the timing cover for the early style. The std rotation water pump doesn't fit the rev-rotation timing cover.

Sounds like a cool build. Good luck.

Most of the aftermarket tbi injection systems are the same. I went Fitech with the last build, as theyve been around the longest and have been the base for the sniper aswell. They also have more adjustability than the sniper. A basic 400 Fitech runs about $1300. About $500 for the eddy air gap (best for sbf). Ignition wise, unless you want to run timing control, you can run a basic coil and dis system, which, at entry level, will run about $250. Going with timing control is stepping up to a mag pickup, phasing and locking out your rotor, and adds to the setup headaches. I strongly recommend not using timing control, at least until the motor is running well. That way, any issues after enabling it can be traced.
Cam for an efi 302 ie, hydro roller, is an expensive upgrade, and really not worth the effort. I wouldnt go that route unless you are doing it alongside a head swap. Trans control may be able to be utilised with an early (eb) era standalone TCM, but it will require inputs from tps etc to work, so youll likely be limited to a controller from shiftkits.com.au which only allow the BTR to shift manually.

I was in a bit of a rush when I wrote that. I just want to clarify what going with a tbi entails and their drawbacks.
First of all, you will have to modify your tank, how you do it depends on how reliable and how good you want your setup. Ideally, youll chop it up, make it able to take a drop in pump, and add a return line fitting. Im a welder, so I just made my own tank from scratch. I assumed because it was quite an angry, loud motor that I could get away with a frame mounted bosch 044 pump (cheapest, easiest option). Theyre unbelievably loud. You could hear the pump over a worked 351c. Youll also need to run bigger lines to feed the tbi, and a return line to the tank, I went with 3/8" both ways which is a bit overkill, but if youre gonna do it, better do it right. So what Im saying is, you need almost a whole new fuel system capable of efi, and if you're gonna do that, you might as well use fords smpefi. (sequential, multi point). Dont use a fuel command centre or any similar device either. Nothing but issues from anyone that has. But then you cant anyway, as the EL motor wont have a mechanical fuel pump drive.

Getting onto the tbi itself. They look cool. If you are wanting timing control, youll be stepping up to a 600 (in fitechs catalogue) or a mid range sniper, which will be running around 1800-2000 depending on the aud. And as I said, it adds a degree of complication. If theres a problem and youve just installed timing control and the tbi, the problem could be with air, fuel, or spark. Do it one at a time, and get it right before going timing control. As sooty said aswell, a dissy to do that is very exxy.

The tbis are better than a carby, but not as good as the injection it already has. They arent a plug it in and forget it kind of deal. I did the best install possible with all wiring and ancillary systems in the bronco done with it in mind. If you take any shortcuts with wiring or plumbing, whatsoever, a tbi will give you no end of issues. Also, if you go tbi, the edelbrock air gap isnt the best intake. I had some small issues with mine, I knew I would (but it looks coolest so I went with it) but a lot of people have big issues with the fuel slightly pooling at the flat decks after the divide. Its recommended to run a single plane intake if you are going this way. Saves a few $ too.

Dont forget, youll need to weld a bung into your exhaust for the o2 sensor aswell, its an m18x1.5 from memory. Placement of this is paramount aswell. Or you could just use your old headers off the xr8 and block one of them (one o2 for tbi)

Its best to use an electric fan aswell, and utilise the cts that the tbi comes with to trigger them. So if you have autometre gauges now, youre gonna have to find another place to tap into coolant, or somehow, double adapt them (I just tossed the gauges, as fitech has them all anyway). Itll trigger a relay ground at a set temperature, this isnt really clear in the manual, but dont, under any circumstances, connect that wire to anything other than the relay ground, or goodbye fitech.
Fuel pump wiring is debateable, the unit wants you to connect a wire straight to your fuel pump positive. Do that, and youll burn out the ecu. Connect it to a relay trigger, and run the pump off that. Youll thank me for that while installing, cos theres no way that pissy wire is powering a 044 at full chat. Connecting the wire straight to the pump makes it able to utilise pwm, so its not at 100% all the time. Its not really necessary though, even if the 044 burns out, theyre cheap and easy to replace. If you went with an intank pump, the risk would be even less of burning out, as itll be cooled by the fuel. Mine lasted 5000km with no issues at all, and is still going, and it was just a $70 ebay one.

As for tuning, as I said, they arent easy. The car will fire instantly, but very odd issues occur very randomly. Coming from carbies on sbf's for years, some issues just boggled the mind and made you want to kill yourself, and then theyd totally dissappear 2 minutes later. If you dont have issues at first, just wait, and something will happen eventually. But its actually rather fun sitting in the car tuning it from the drivers seat. The line of traffic 400m long behind me probably wasnt having much fun though. I did have a couple of full on break downs with it. But a master reset (takes about 2 minutes) would get it going well enough to make it home. I think they were likely caused by the dual plane pooling up at low rpms.

In essence what Im saying is, dont go with a sniper or any other tbi unless you have to for roadworthy reasons, and be prepared for a steep learning curve and a lot of hidden expenses. As much as I loved doing the install and tuning, looking back, Id have much rathered just dropping in an xr8 motor and using factory injection. There was a lot of support on facebook for tuning, but not any more, as dumbasses would make dumb install mistakes and blame the product. The technology just hasnt been around long enough for it to be feasable to a beginner or someone wanting a quick fix. Its not refined enough, although, if you have the time and energy, you can make it awesome. In a build like yours with basic bolt ons, I wouldnt be so quick to discount a carby. The holley XP range is the best you can buy now, and still run less than a tbi unit. Easy, simple tuning, while still taking advantage of the xr8's refinement and power over an older 302w. Fuel system is easy with a simple holley blue pump and youre good to go. A 750cfm would be a tad too big with what you want now, but should cope well if you go with a better flowing head. Even a 600 holley would be ok, and they start at around $500, coupled with an intake and dissy, youve got that modern motor in there for less than $1500. Good luck with it, and if you go with the Fitech and have any issues or questions, hit me up.

I would(and I am) use AU EECV which will run both trans and engine and tune(although you wouldn't need to) with a Moates 1/4 Horse.