I thought I'd share the story so far in case anyone else is considering this.

I bought the kit on ebay (where else) {DESCRIPTION} No affiliation and there are plenty to choose from, but this one was cheap (did I mention my Scottish heritage). The kit has the motor and drive gear, a s**t load of plastic things, the switches, wires and instructions (well almost).

The instructions are less than clear, but it's pretty straightforward. Just find the correct fittings for the winder sprocket then the appropriate profiled one that links to the motorised drive, fit the drive and motor in place and wire up, easy right!

Well I was buggered if I could find a place to fit the motor where it wasn't clashing with something, mostly the window or it's mechanism at some point in the travel. Here's a couple of pics of my eventual mounting point in the passenger door.



Not ideal as I wanted to keep the drive cable runs as straight as possible, but I just couldn't get it to fit. I'll be trying to make this better, but I'm not convinced that I can.

The kit has a bunch of pseudo self tappers that need a small (3mm I think) drilled in the door then just screw up tight, they seem to work ok, but I'd prefer to use something more robust and will ultimately change them some small bolts.

I ran it from a spare battery and it works fine, a little slow due to the window mechanism rubbing on something that I'll fix up later.

Decided to mount the switches on the centre console so I can reduce the wiring running to the doors and dispense with the need to have the extra switch to control the passenger door from the drivers side since I can easily reach both on the console.

Fitted the switches and ran some of the wires last night, but forgot to take pics.

I fitted a central locking system (universal aftermarket thing) a while back and the control box has a 30 sec -'ve output to close windows and I reckon I've got a plan using 6 relays and a couple of switches and some diodes (yes 6 relays) that will automatically close the open window(s) when I lock the car.

I'll update this as I go.

Comments, advice, flaming gratefully received.

Last edited by falcopops on Mon Jun 24, 2013 12:01 am, edited 2 times in total.

I like alternative setups - don't see enough 'outside the square' setups.

I did mine with XF ghia motors (see the tech doco), but I'd say XD/E/F motors would be harder to come upon. I guess long term, depends how those plastic spline adaptors hold up.
Be essential the window is adjusted so the motor isn't struggling to wind up.

You can get autowinders off ebay also ford-interior-f14/automatic-window-winders-t60540.html

You can rework the EB/ED switch panels as well - assuming you're running the XH centre console.

 

 

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Cheers Snap, I found those auto winders after shelling out a shed load on relays at jaycar

I did see your post on using the x series motors, but decided to go the "easy" route.

The setup I'm aiming for will use 4 relays to break the feed and return from the switches and use a dedicated constant 12v supply and earth to roll up the windows when the central locking sends its 30 second ground. I reckon I've got the wiring for that sussed, not too difficult and I'll post a schematic that I drew up when I have access to it and the final wiring arrangement.

However, I don't want the motors to be straining against the closed window every time I lock the car and the window is already up. So I plan to install a couple of relays and switches to act as proximity cut offs to stop the motor when the window is up, I recon I figured the wiring, but then realised I'd have a problem getting the windows to wind down again if one of the wires was on an open switch. I recon that I've got it figured using a diode that will allow the relay to flip back to normally closed once the power from the switch or auto roll up has been removed. Again I'll post schematics and wiring etc once it's done.

I take your point about the plastic gears and I don't think they look that robust, but apparently these have been used quite a bit so we'll see. Fortunately there are a couple of alternatives in the kit that will work, so they can be changed if they pack up.

Last edited by falcopops on Mon Jun 24, 2013 12:06 am, edited 1 time in total.

Had me intrigued why a HX ute would need power windows.

The PO put speakers in that clash with the winders enough to be a PIA and 'cos I'm a lazy a*** and can't be bothered leaning across the car to get to the other window

Not questioning why you would put them in a XH just a HX.

Now I see the error, must have come over all Holden for a minute

quickly edits title and walks off whistling innocently

Looks like the kit has caps to fit over the manual wind spindle - impressive.
All ford did with the X series ghias was have a vinyl covered disc that stuck over the manual winder door card hole.

I think you'll be better off with an autowinder module - overrun, etc are already sorted.

The kit does have a range of different profiled caps to hide the winder. I'm hoping that I've kept the profile of low enough to use a very flat cap.


I realise that now, but didn't know those kits had overrun protection

Still I'm a glutton for punishment and so the battle continues

I got a couple of pics of the switch positions.


Here's wiring diagram for the auto close relay set up I've still to finish off, fortunately there's plenty of room under the centre console to hide it all and make disconnection easy when I need to lift the console in future. The bottom half of the page has the real wire runs to minimise connections. The diodes across the relay coils are probably not necessary, but it's a habit that protects other devices from the back emf from the collapse of the relay coil and diodes are stupid cheap.


And here's the diagram of the wiring for the overrun protection that I reckon can be triggered near the bottom of the door by the gear plate that the winder acts on, looks like a simple place to put the switch, also in the picture.

My theory is that as the motor winds up with the + on the green from the up button until the overrun switch is closed when the window is just closed (that's going to be the fun part). The switch completes the circuit to the relay coil which breaks the + feed to the motor and the window stops. When the window is closed, any time you hit the up button the circuit to the motor is broken and nothing happens. When the window button is released the green and blue wires drop to earth so the relay coil denergises and the relay reverts to normally closed, re-connecting the green wire to the motor.

When the down button is pushed the blue wire goes + and the green wire goes -. The overrun switch will be closed, but the diode on the right blocks the current to the coil and stops it from energising, keeping the relay in the NC position, which lets the motor current run to earth through the green wire and allowing the overrun switch to open again. Simple really

Latest update.

Managed to get the time to put together the relays and the overrun switches.

Apologies for the poor photo's my phone struggled to figure out what to focus on and it was dark so I was guessing what was in the viewfinder.

Here's the block of relays, I mounted them on a piece of old plastic I had laying around


Here's the wiring spaghetti underneath


And here it is mounted under the centre console, utilising two conveniently placed mounts


The door switches were a b**ch to figure at 1st, but fell into place quite simply eventually.

Here's the location of the cut off switch, it's actuated by the mechanism in the door, the copper coloured part to the top of the picture


Here's a video, you'll need to stand on your head to understand it, I couldn't figure how to spin the video round Click on the pic to play it
{DESCRIPTION}

The relay block let me down unfortunately, I had allowed one of the diodes to touch one of the other terminals and caused a short, which I've now fixed.

Last edited by falcopops on Tue Aug 27, 2013 6:55 pm, edited 3 times in total.

The final instalment.

With the fitting of the AU centre console complete and eventually getting a replacement central locking system fitted (I fried the last one with the short in my rely set up) I've got the windows closing on lock up and the overrun switches seem to be doing their job too.

Happy bunny