That gearbox is XE Falcon 3.3 only from memory. Its not a T5 - it will work and get blown up.

No worries Nigel bean. Have been trying to sell it for what I paid for it, and no one appears to want it, so will throw it through the guys workshop wall if he doesn't have my money to give back Monday morning. XE... I have been saying "3.3L XF..." Thanks for fixing up that one for me.

Novices ARE dangerous.
I am one.

Good luck getting a refund dude, and if you don't, i wouldn't throw it thru the workshop window, i'd stick it where the sun doesn't shine! The guy deserves it if he won't refund you for a dodgy sale!

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Am taking the box back in a minute - First I must drive over and see if he has any money for me (which I doubt - the guy is a looser and seriously should not be allowed into your fair country...!)

Have just bought one labelled BORG WARNER 0552 066900. It is complete alloy housing, and as such am very interested in it. Even if it has come out of the EB - at least it will run behind my mostly stock EF without bending. If it is from a XF 4.1 or something, can anyone tell me if this is a better bet than the M76? Although - Looking at the bellhousing, the starter motor recess is on the passenger side, so it would be an EB or similar. It's just that its part number starts BORG WARNER 0552 xxxxxx, but it is a five speed with an E series bellhousing, is it not?

Guess it is EA or EB as the condition of the alloy suggests 20 odd years, not 5 or 10.

If that is enough info to find out the gear ratios, then please tell!

If fifth is similar to the M76's 1:.76 or similar, then I'm happy with my purchase.! Do not want top gear to be 1:1 ....


Silly me - Got carried away with the "BUY NOW" mouse clicking again... Never mind, I have to pay it off over a couple of weeks, so I am now one step closer towards having a manual. Snails pace, but better than no pace at all.

...............................................
........................................................... Hope it looks a bit better when I get it to Wellington and clean it up a little! aparently the clutch was rooted so that's the reason for it not being a complete kit - And some bugger went and bought the cables and pedals... At least I have the box, just hope like hell someone can tell me what it is...

BORG WARNER 0552 066900???

It looks much more like a T5. Here's a linky to a pic of my T5, but the opposite site.

http://www.fordmods.com/forums/gallery. ... f=9895&m=0

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Yeah dude - No worries, am sure this one I just bought has come from an EB. Now all I have to find is ;

a cover plate, or whatever stops dust and gravel getting in the hole for clutch fork
(arrowed in the blow up of your picture, attached)
Is there even a cover or rubber there?!!!

a clutch cable

some method of pulling the clutch cable
(a pedal of some sort might do the trick)

maybe a spigot bearing

As well as this, I'll need a good long time with the car off the road in order for me, with very little knowledge, to go about it. This will be, by far, the most complicated and potentially destructive thing attempted thus far.

If all goes well, you'll be hard pressed to stop me putting an AU motor in within the next six months.

Thanks for the photo - they do look awfully similar! YAY

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The cover thing you are talking about is a big black dust cover, may be able to get it from ford or a gearbox joint. Spigot? Ummmm i can't remember if my flywheel had one, but my clutch plate, pressure plate & flywheel were really close to new when i pulled the box out of the car, and the clutch fork still hard a ford parts sticker on it!

Make sure you get a flywheel for a EF/EL, they have more bolt holes for the pressure plate & better options for better than stock clutches.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

Hey guys, dont mean to cut in but does anyone know where the hell (and possabily have a picture) the loom is that you need to add resistors and plugs to to turn it into a manual loom?

Thanks,
IR

It's the loom that runs from the plug on the side of the auto upto the socket on the firewall. IIRC it's a round socket on the firewall end.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

cheers

I pulled the manual loom out of an EB - I still have an auto computer though....

So saying, the manual box is still not attached to the engine or driveshaft....

Should I just get a manual EF computer, or can I kill two birds with one stone by putting one of Jaysens chips into it with a manual data put on it?

the ef ecu wont plug into the eb loom..
as ef has 100 pins and eb has 60 pins...

Sorry TROYMAN... I merely meant the cable that goes from the manual box to where it plugs into the car loom.

No worries --- I hear the EL computer is similar to the EB then? Also the memories are much smaller than the EF or AU.

Sorry for the confusion...

EDIT DOUBLE POST (how the hell did that happen?)

Did anyone ever do anything with the clutch switch in an EF / EL cruise control setup other than turn off cruise?

CLARIFICATION ---
I would like to use the CLUTCH PEDAL of my upcoming manual install to push the DECEL (or SET-) button on the cruise control so that the engine doesn't rev when the clutch is in and cruise is on. The standard Ford wiring for this part (clutch switch) seems to turn cruise off, and you must push the RES COAST button each time you push the clutch in to get cruise working at the previous set speed. The idea of using SET- instead is that you push the clutch in, the engine will not rev, you change gear, release the clutch and the cruise picks up pretty much where it left off. Cruise seems to use an "average" of the last second of travel to calculate its new speed setting, so although it should be slowing down 2km/h every time it changes gear, in practice it probably wont.


Have just pulled apart some cruise control switches (EF) and found it's not simple as what I'd hoped.

The switch I want to use for the manual clutch is the DECELERATE (or SET - button) is not a straight switch at all.

Before it goes into the clock spring it is actually a positive connection through a 120ohm resistor as the other two buttons on this side of the cruise control setup use other resistance values to feed the information through the clocksprings limited resource of connections.

In other words - when you push the DECEL button, it provides a bit of resistance on a completed circuit between the black and the blue / black wires. The blue / black has a label of BLU on circuit board.

The ON button provides a completed circuit between blue / black (label of BLE on circuit board) and purple/pink where as OFF connects BLK and BLE


The photo, attached, shows the front and the back of the circuit boards. The back view has been mirrored so that you can directly see what components of circuit board line up and connect to others....


***
I have two questions -

1) What does the normal clutch connection (terminated under dash near the brake pin) do? Does it do the equal of pushing the RES COAST button?
2) What connections to the cruise computer does the DECEL / SET- button actually use, or do I need to replicate the 120ohm resistor and run new wires to somewhere?
***


Edit --- Found this on CRUISE CONTROL INSTALL tech doco ---

# Cruise Control Connector Pin out Information
Please note, the Wiring loom connector will have the Pin Numbers marked on both sides of the connector.
# 1 - Electronic Cluster Indicator
# 2 - Not Used - Not Connected
# 3 - Vehicle speed signal (From The Instrument Cluster - White Wire Speedo Sender Output)
# 4 - Stop lamp Switch feed (+12V when stop lamps are on)
# 5 - Command Signal
# 6 - Command Return Signal
# 7 - Ignition Switch Feed (+12V when Ignition key On)
# 8 - Not Used - Not Connected
# 9 - Deactivator Switch (On Brake Booster - +12V when Brakes NOT Depressed)
# 10 - Ground (-)

I guess I am looking at doing something d**k to the Command and Command Return signal. Could I just run a light weight (low resistance with any luck) wire from the #5 and #6 positions through a switch connected to a 120ohm resistor?



Am leaning towards splicing a couple of wires to #5 and #6 and putting a resistor and switch into the equation. Chances of blowing the whole thing to bits seems minimal, chances of it working seem okayish.


Where the hell is DATA MINE when you need him?

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