Hey Nathan,

Sorry about the thread mining, but I just stumbled across this thread. Had read your build thread, but somehow missed this one.

After you thrashed me at the last Drag Wars, it got me thinking. Your 'mont is really strong especially in third gear and I wonder if the modified throttle body is part of that. With 8% more area, and at least that much more flow, that would make sense. I decided that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, so I have done the same mod to mine - though not as pretty as yours . It does feel like an improvement, but will have to log some runs to be sure.

I did things a little differently. To make sure I wasn't reducing the size of the throttle plate, I coloured the flat edge with the side of a black permanent marker. That way I could keep sanding until only a thin black line was left.

Also, I sanded down only one side of the plate. As the plate sits in the throttle body at an angle, only the back (manifold side) of the leading edge and the front of the trailing edge contact the throttle body. So I left those two sides alone, and sanded only the sides not contacting the throttle body. That way, the point of contact doesn't change at all, and the idle can't be affected.

I also took a file to the remaining half of the throttle shaft to thin it about 25-30%, and blended it in. As there are no threads in that part of the shaft, the throttle plate screw thread engagement is not affected. I also thought it was a good idea to use thread locker on the screws, as they are no longer pegged in like they are from the factory.

I also swapped in a BA induction tube and bridged the gap to the throttle body with some 3" PVC pipe painted black - just like I did to my AU2. I'll check how much bonnet clearance I have - I might have enough to step up to the Territory induction tube

Anyway, we'll see if it makes any difference at the next Drag Wars. Thanks for all the help and the excellent write-ups.

Good stuff there Roger! Will be interesting to see if there is much of a difference to your 1/4 figures. I was intending to try get a before and after dyno run with a stock TB vs a modded TB, but it's hard enough just getting dyno time for just a power run let alone getting time to do some before and after testing, so haven't really bothered.

That run I had against you at Drag Wars was one of my better times I've got, so I guess I got a bit lucky there. Couldn't believe how close I stuck to my dial-in on that run too . I'd say the extra little bits of work on the intake manifold and the extra spark advance I've tipped into the midrange at WOT would be helping out big time. Previous to doing these mod's I was running 15.4 - 15.6 down the 1/4.

I'll try get down for the next few rounds of Drag Wars, but not sure if I'll be racing. Quietly working away on a few things, but trying to save as much $$ as possible to make it happen quickly

This has been cute to read. All this wot dyno masterbating, anyone here off their Ps yet? In a past life I had a 3.5L V6 AWD Magna which all have the GTA Evo Lancer automatic behind them. With a 65mm factory TB, we would perform a similar bore realignment and lip removal and routinely saw fuel economy gains of 1-1.5L /100. Ralliart 3.5L motors made 180kw/330nm with an oem 65mm tb, but were much snappier with a high flowed tb. Did it blow the dyno away, no. Did it make daily driving more pleasurable, yes. Did it save $ on fuel that could be put to other mods, yes.

Any cross section advantage for the larger 4L donk is going to be a good thing.

One day I'll talk about the water to air inter cooled supercharger I strapped on...

Wouldn't bother, still only a Magna hahahaha

True enough, I saw it as a V6 Evo Lancer with very cheap parts. Was good for killing imported crap and cammed VE SS commonwhores

It's a shame with the Magnas they didn't design the inlet manifold to not be removed when you have to change the rear spark plugs.