bypass modules are available online, follow link below, or in my profile, they wire into the ecu harness, not the j3. I guarantee that they work, and will give full after sales support. I can also test the one you have if you want to send it over.

Righto

Power to the coil pack & injectors is present when ignition is on.

Pin 55 is always powered (except for when main isolator is off, dirt circuit reg’s require it to kill everything when in the off position).

Pin's 71 & 97 both go +12V when ignition is on (per coil pack & injectors).

Pins 24, 25, 51, 76, 77, & 103 are all 0 volts when checked against earth (EEC-V disconnected), igniton on & off.

Pin 91 is 0 volts ignition off, +12v ignition on, except when sync is unplugged, then it goes to zero.


For Codes 794 & 791, i checked the voltage of pins 46 & 17 respectively with ignition on, both yielded battery voltage. Also checked pins 68 & 42 (other relays) and they gave same result, so those codes still have me miffed.

Tried to check voltage drop of Injector 2 (pin 101) while cranking with EEC-V connected, by barring the wire at the EEC-V, meter from it to battery earth. Reading dropped to about 7 volts, but was sporadic, no indication of it going earth at all. I suspect the voltage drop was due to cranking more then anything. Unfortunately I don't have a functional test light at present which definitely would have been better.

I also tested the bypass module again, EEC-V disconnected testing voltage at pin 3, and it yielded an AC voltage of 6.6V to 6.7V when ignition is on. Supplier’s sheet says it should be should be about 6.4V AC when generating the code. Battery voltage is about 12.5V, new 900CCA out of my Hilux.

Fuel pump is still a no goer when cranking, still runs fro about a sexond when ignition goes live.

An order for bypass will be on the way tonight, had I known you supplied these I would have got it off you originally when I ordered a variable shift kit for the beast the other week , which has now arrived, but not yet wired up.

See comments within the quote above

Pins 24, 25, 51, 76, 77, & 103 are all 0 volts when checked against earth (EEC-V disconnected), igniton on & off.

Check with the ecu connected, should still be 0.0 volts.

Ans. Checked this evening and all 6 pins are zero volts with ECU connected and ignition live. All wires except that from pin 25 ultimately become one in the loom.



For Codes 794 & 791, i checked the voltage of pins 46 & 17 respectively with ignition on, both yielded battery voltage. Also checked pins 68 & 42 (other relays) and they gave same result, so those codes still have me miffed.

The ecu pulls the relays down, so will have 12v until teh relays are to be triggered then will go to 0v. The relays should be connected to ignition power pin 86 of the relay and ecu pin 85 of the relay

Ans. All four fan relays are still wired per original, I've only seperated the fan wiring, rerouted to run from ECU over pasenger side front gard, and shortend to a suitable length. Relays are mounted on the gaurd, orignal wires run to the fans. Each wire still controls it's original type of respective relay relay.



I also tested the bypass module again, EEC-V disconnected testing voltage at pin 3, and it yielded an AC voltage of 6.6V to 6.7V when ignition is on. Supplier’s sheet says it should be should be about 6.4V AC when generating the code. Battery voltage is about 12.5V, new 900CCA out of my Hilux..

Again, check it connected to the ecu, and its not an ac signal so those voltages will not reflect anyting useful.

Ans. With ECU connected ign. on yeilds 1.24V DC, 1.39AC. Not sure that means anything as it probably wouldn't be unreasonable for the ECU to sink some of the voltage.

I installed the new bypass unit today, as soon as the I switched the ignition circuit on I knew I was in business, the fuel pump ran for 3 to 4 seconds, before it only ran for about a second.

The new bypass is a shift kits Australia unit, the old one was an ebay job, which is clearly defective from the fact the new units done the job, with no wiring changes what so ever to a very cut & shut loom. So there’s some knowledge for future punters, lack of smart lock code to an EF ECU prevents the coil pack, injectors, & the fuel pump from operating. From reading other threads, I got the impression smartlock only took out spark & injectors (and of course the starter circuit at the BEM).

The engine started first crank, it’s a bit tappy, I suspect it may have a sticky valve or two, as it laid static & exposed to weather for a couple of years, and took a bit of elbow grease on a breaker bar to get the crank turning freely couple months back. It’s not smoking at all which is positive.

I still have to conquer the speed signal issue, getting on to that now, along with a significant pwr steering rack leak.

If you have any electronic speedo's around pull one apart and see if it uses a UAF2115 chip. XD, XE, EA, EB definately used this chip. You only need to hook a wire to pin #3 and you are in business with your SS input for the EEC. You only need to give it power, connect the 3 wires for the sender and the wire for the EEC. It really is that simple. You could do as XAfalcon said and mount the board inside a box of you dont want a speedo.

Commodores BMW's and Volvos also used the same chip. It is VERY VERY common.

You can connect the VSS straight to the ECU. I have done this with no problems.

Jason

^ as above, but you need to install a 1k pullup resistor