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| henry95ef |
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 hey im chasin a set of 4.11 diff gears for my ef gli auto 6, im on the sunshine coast qld any help would be greatly appreciated 
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| EL XR8 |
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Of course, to state the obvious... You realise whats this will do to your car, as they are fairly high diff gears for a street driven car.
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| ryansvo |
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i can get you a detroit locker for like 1000 my mate is selling his
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| MikGan |
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The I6, isnt a particularly high reving engine, I have a 9" 4.11 LSD on my 5.8lt clevo and it suits that just fine and thats only because I have a large cam in there that demands 3500+ rpm, on an I6 I think you'll start hearing bad noises pretty quickly.
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| mrnasty |
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3.7's and 3.9's are your friend.
4.11's most likely are not your friend. Mine with 3.7's in an auto I6 revs at 2300rpm at 100km/h on the freeway. thats high enough for me!
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| sickd |
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{USERNAME} wrote: 3.7's and 3.9's are your friend.
4.11's most likely are not your friend. Mine with 3.7's in an auto I6 revs at 2300rpm at 100km/h on the freeway. thats high enough for me! does it go good with 3.7 diff gears i have 3.45 and would like to goto 3.7 mine is a manual tho.
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| veeate |
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{USERNAME} wrote: i can get you a detroit locker for like 1000 my mate is selling his
ive been told you cant get detroit lockers for a BW diff.....i was told by about 10 diff shops / performance shops, Rocket & VPW that if i wanted a detroit locker i needed a 9" 4.11's are s**t for the street on a stock car...i had them and there was s**t power in 2nd and 3rd gear, although very responsive in 1st..... |
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| ryansvo |
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unless you have lots of mods and the car is more of a strip car then the 3.7 are the better diff to go with
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| henry95ef |
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yeah the engine is fairly modified with big port work high compression 10mm leads pacemaker extractors hi flow cat 3" mandrel bent exhaust, 90mm throttle body and custom 12 litre intake manifold, cam coming soon. With 4.11's fitted it will sit on 2700rpm at 100 kph. The car is drivin 50% road and 50% strip
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| ryansvo |
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what cam you getting?
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| henry95ef |
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i'm lookin at a KEC cam or an ALTED cam or maybe a CROW cam, i want over 200rwhp using standard computer just to see how far i can push it before i go aftermarket chip etc, i'm currently getting 180rwhp at speed limiter, thats why im lookin at 4.11's
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| ryansvo |
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well if you wont that locker i think it is a 4.11 i can talk to my mate and see what he says and get more info about it for you
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| EL XR8 |
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You'll still lose speed by getting 4.11's with 'only' that much power. YOu would need a substantial amount of power to be able to run them without slowing the car down over the quarter.
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| veeate |
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{USERNAME} wrote: well if you wont that locker i think it is a 4.11 i can talk to my mate and see what he says and get more info about it for you
what is he just selling the locking centre or the whole diff, or the gear set and the centre ???? |
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| MikGan |
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And changin to a 9" will suck alot of power out of your combo, they are a massive unit and you will find that you're power figures will go backwards with it. Generally 9" diffs are best left to cars that will tear a normal diff to shreds, 200rwhp doesnt 'need' a 9".
I Dont know your gear ratios but 4.11's with my top loader from memory it is 3500rpm at 100, so might wanna have a really good think about it. My suggestion is always leave the diff to LAST, dont change unless you need to, a diff can make or break a cars performance. And is best matched to you're cam, I cant emphasise enough that you should get your fast bits in there cam included and THEN decide if you 'need' a new diff ratio. Whats the specs of the cams your looking at? You say that you take it down the track a fair bit, what numbers have you got at the moment? and at what speed, you may find (and I assume you will being an I6) that it will run out of legs with a 4.11 on there by the end of the strip. I'd say 3.7.... 3.9 would be a better guess if you really want to do it a** backwards.
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