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RuchEa |
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I know happy can help with this but any other input is greatly appreciated!
Basic background- bought an complete EBII xr6 that didnt run as a fixer upper. Currently drive a well modified EA (ie head, exhaust,thermos,intake,cam,vernier,rims,tyres,cat,rotors,newly built 3.45 lsd,T5 and other bits and pieces! So my questions are: >Are the axle bearings the same in an EA as they are in an EB(both are 3.45 LSD)? >What does the EA diff(which im keeping, selling the EBs) need to be ABS compliant, in other words what do I need to do *EXACTLY* to the EA diff so I can use the ABS system from the EB? >Bush mounts on the EA diff are narrower than on the EB, is there any (mod) way around this? can I just use an EA bush in the EB Control arm? Any other tips or information will be appreciated massively! Thanks boys.
_________________ EB XR6 project almost complete!
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uglybob |
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the axles hold the ABS sensor ring, the diff itself is not an issue
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RuchEa |
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What about the aluminium plate on the diff centre case of the EB?
and the contol arms?
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cjh |
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Why do you wish to stuff around like that. The EA housing doesn't have an oil drain for starters. The EBII may have 28 spline axles. The EA has 25 spline axles. The rear covers are the same apart from having a bigger bottom hole, ( for the oil drain ).
I recently changed the diff in my 88EA to an EBII housing, using the 3.27:1 gears it had, put my LSD centre in with my 25 spline axles. Added strenghtening gussets to the lower control arm mounts on the diff housing, made alloy spacers of appropriate sizes to still use the EA lower trailing arms. Have had no probs.
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RuchEa |
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I know its a pain in the a*** but I only just had the EAs diff rebuilt and dont wanna risk a failure in the EBs diff!
Might just go and swap centres and use the EB housing! save sum f**k around! Im pretty sure the EBs axle were 25 spline aswell! What about advive on the ABS side of things incase I end up using the EA housing?
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-clampy- |
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eb2 diffs should be 28 spline
_________________ current ride: worn out chuck taylors |
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RuchEa |
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{USERNAME} wrote: eb2 diffs should be 28 spline
Cool will take another look!
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cjh |
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You'll have to swap over the alloy brake caliper mounts, they should have the holes & stuff for the abs sensors, but as for the ABS tone wheels on the axles, i don't know if you could swap them over or not. Haven't seen it done.
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philaddis |
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I have to ask, why are you bothering with the EB ABS anyway,
The system is more of a hinderance than a help, especially to anyone who understands effective braking. Best braking is achieved just prior to brake lockup. If your ABS is cycling, you have gone to far........ but then I am sure you all know that. Upon ABS activation in the EB's the pedal just dives away from you, resulting in reduced braking effort and to pull the ABS off cycle, you have to completely remove your foot from the pedal and start again. WTF? A crap system which is better off left on the rolling wreck so you can stick with a system that is far less of a liability....... assuming you understand effective braking and don't suffer from panic braking. Another issue with ABS which gives me the irrits, is braking over bumpy, irregular surfaces. If you are into the anchors and you are braking effectively, if there are major bumps in the road over say a metre in distance and brake lockup results, due to the suspension struggling to maintain tyre contact with the lumpy surface (and even with only one wheel locked up) for that very short time, ABS starts cycling and you have to come off the pedal to stop it cycling. Anyone familliar with the Reid Highway bridge, turning right onto the Freeway North in Balcatta (when you are out for a fang) will know what I am talking about........ Like so many of these driver aids, they are only useful where the driver lacks the necessary skills for proper car control.
_________________ ED XR8 Spri-mitatio-nt |
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RuchEa |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I have to ask, why are you bothering with the EB ABS anyway,
The system is more of a hinderance than a help, especially to anyone who understands effective braking. Best braking is achieved just prior to brake lockup. If your ABS is cycling, you have gone to far........ but then I am sure you all know that. Upon ABS activation in the EB's the pedal just dives away from you, resulting in reduced braking effort and to pull the ABS off cycle, you have to completely remove your foot from the pedal and start again. WTF? A crap system which is better off left on the rolling wreck so you can stick with a system that is far less of a liability....... assuming you understand effective braking and don't suffer from panic braking. Another issue with ABS which gives me the irrits, is braking over bumpy, irregular surfaces. If you are into the anchors and you are braking effectively, if there are major bumps in the road over say a metre in distance and brake lockup results, due to the suspension struggling to maintain tyre contact with the lumpy surface (and even with only one wheel locked up) for that very short time, ABS starts cycling and you have to come off the pedal to stop it cycling. Anyone familliar with the Reid Highway bridge, turning right onto the Freeway North in Balcatta (when you are out for a fang) will know what I am talking about........ Like so many of these driver aids, they are only useful where the driver lacks the necessary skills for proper car control. One word "registration"
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philaddis |
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Yeah, fair call....
I just got my wires crossed........ I thought you were wrecking the EB and putting the system into the EA. Just disregard my comments......... .......although it is still a crap system, I get that you HAVE to have it for registration.......
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