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justfordima |
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hey,
I got me a parts mobil..... it's an EA Fairmont Ghia, with a T5, so I am converting my WAGON next weekend... the wagon is an EBII pre smartlock though... Anyway, there was a doco that I read on FF, or FT or soemthing like that, Quote: We have found, swapping the EA box into an EB, that the front yoke has a different spline pattern inside.
Q's: 1) All EA parts can be used, fine, apart from ECU ofcourse (remember its a wagon, and the parts car is a sedan) 2) According to the same DOCO, the car is meant to be jacked up 1/2 meter... jack stands? they go that high? do the jacks(floor jacks) 3) do I need 2 or 4 jacks? or maybe 8 to get the two cars up? neccessary? 4)After its unbolted (the auto), place the floor jack under the auto transmissions pan? and use that to bring it down? how heavy is it? 5) Do the manual starter motor have to be used? the one on my wreck is snapped at where it bolts in. 6) Should I "while I'm there", buy an EB fly wheel, and clutch? will I regret using the EA one? 7) Doable in one weekend with 2 or 3 mates? 8) The DOCO doesn't include how to take out the manual, any different from the auto? what are the differences? 9) What problems will I definately run into, which ones will I MAYBE run into? any helpful hints? someone mentioned a tbar thourgh the shifter whole for the top bolt or something? 10) Anything good or "service" related item I can clean/replace while the tranny's out? like bearings, or adjusting something on the box? 11) What the hell is aligning a clutch? aligning with what? I'm confused on that one. 12) how much is a jack (I don't have one), and jack stands capable of such heights? 13) Anyone in western sydney with experience/tools wanna come by and do the conversion with help from me and 2/3 mates for $100 bucks, or maybe 3 cases of beer or whatever... around $100 bucks.... or maybe tell me how much you wanna be payed... as long as its within the weekend, and around $100 I'll agree. Sorry for the long post, all input appriciated. I know this is a millionth post of manual conversions, but its different when you are about to do it yourself Thanks heaps,
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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Low EL |
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Age: 44 Posts: 314 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 Ride: Fairlane Location: Cairns, Far North Queensland |
OK, I can help with a couple of the questions.
To get the manual out, remove the center console. Then, you should see 2 10mm bolts holding on the gear stick. remove these, and the gear lever. Unhook the clutch cable at the clutch pedal. Then, under the car, you should be able to remove the clutch cable by un hooking it at the gear box (underneath the plastick cover. Remove the tailshaft. Have something ready to catch the fluid, or something to cap the end of the box. Put a jack under the box, and remove the two bolts holding in the cross member. Slowly lower the box a little. Remove the four bolts holding the box to the bell housing. Now, by sliding the box back, you should be able to remove it. Next, undo the two starter motor bolts (be warned, unless you have removed the inlet manifold, the top one is a real pain. Then, undo all of the bolts holding on the bell housing, and remove it. The splash sheild will drop out now too. Then, you will see the clutch and the flywheel. Remove the three clutch bolts, and remove the clutch. Now, remove the 6 bolts holding on the flywheel. Once thats done, that should be all thats needed for removal. In terms of tailshaft, lengh should be fine. Pedal box removal, whole dash pretty much needs to come out. Your starter motor will be fine, no change from auto to manual Auto box is very heavy, try to drain it first, but it will still be heavy. One jack should be fine, but make sure you remove the manual first, and have all of the parts ready (degreased/cleaned) to go in before you remove the auto Make sure you get the bearing that goes in the back of the crank of the car you are fitting the manual to, dont try to re-use the one from the wreck You should be able to pick up a jack and pair of stands for around $80 from any auto store (repco etc) Consider replacing the rear main seal while the auto is out Clutch aligning, ill leave to someone else. Hope that all helps. Tim
_________________ EL GLI, White
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justfordima |
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Low Na wrote: One jack should be fine, but make sure you remove the manual first, and have all of the parts ready (degreased/cleaned) to go in before you remove the auto all the parts been? degreased, ok, but grease them back up with WD40? or new engine oil or something? tranny fluid? Low Na wrote: Make sure you get the bearing that goes in the back of the crank of the car you are fitting the manual to, dont try to re-use the one from the wreck Are these obtainable from Repco? or the like? Low Na wrote: Consider replacing the rear main seal while the auto is out
Is this hard? what is involved? I am assuming its a gasket of a sort, where can you buy it? Cheers, and thanks for the reply.. much helpful
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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Low EL |
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Age: 44 Posts: 314 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 Ride: Fairlane Location: Cairns, Far North Queensland |
Yeah, all auto shops should sell the bearing, cant remember its name though lol.
Drain the manual box, and refill with new fluid. The rear main seal, again from any auto shop. Main thing is to make sure it goes in straight, but then again, if its not leaking, probably best to not touch it. Degreasing mainly to clean the outside of the box, much nicer to work with clean parts. You will probably need some grease to lube up the input shaft, again, someone else can explain.
_________________ EL GLI, White
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altedxr6 |
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Low Na wrote: Yeah, all auto shops should sell the bearing, cant remember its name though lol.
spigot bush! |
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One Drone |
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Yep spigot bearing, they can only go in one way really and you will figure that out when the time comes..
_________________ There are 10 types of people in this world. |
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justfordima |
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spigot bearing it is.... thanks for that.
how about the jack stands? will they be high enough? Cheers
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Jaysen |
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yup the jack stands will be high enough. Drone and I did my EF conversion with the cars tyres about 12"off the ground. We only had it on ramps at the front and stands under the rear. The spigot bearing needs to be punched in and the best way to do this is with a socket the same size as the bearing itself and the hit it in with a soft faced mallet. it has a lip on one side so its easy to figure out. The clutch will need to be aligned with the spigot bearing so that the input shaft lines up, failure to do this will lead to great amounts of frustration. With regard to removing the manual, just remove the bellhousing bolts from around the back of the motor, dont remove the bellhousing from the box. A good trick to getting those barstard bolts at the top of the bell housing is to undo your exhaust at the back of the cat converter and then tilt the motor back as far as it can go ( it wont go very far cause the rocker cover soon finds the fire wall ) it wont harm your engine mounts either for any one who might be concerned. its then very easy to get to the top bolts with a very long extension and a uni joint. Make sure to relube your clutch thrust bearing or buy a new one as mine when it was washed out I suspect had no lube put back in it and now it gets a little noisy from time to time.
After all that where abouts in western sydney are you cause I might be in for the punishment of doing another one
_________________ Dima, Mitch & Jay's RPD |
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Low EL |
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Age: 44 Posts: 314 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 Ride: Fairlane Location: Cairns, Far North Queensland |
Jaysen wrote: With regard to removing the manual, just remove the bellhousing bolts from around the back of the motor, dont remove the bellhousing from the box. :
Mate, have to dissagree. It makes things soo much easier it you seperate the two. makes it a lot easier to get to the top bellhousing mounts without the box there, and also makes getting the box itself back in easier. The less weight you have to lift at a time, the better, expecially when working upside down under a car:P
_________________ EL GLI, White
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neil101 |
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Yeah I agree too sepperate the box from the bell housing make life so much more simple and makes the gearbox easier manhandle in (especialy if you do it by yourself as i did) I'd put a new clutch in while your there saves pulling it out later on, Use the xr6 clutch kit it's clamps better and it's cheaper than the std on (don't ask me why) from memory the part number is pbr no R1220N or I have a daken one in my garage which is brand new you could have for $220 (cost 295)
With the EA ghia you interest in selling the power window? I could probably do the conversion for you how soon do u need it done? takes about a 6-8hr's depending on problems drive in drive out $400. Cheers neil
_________________ HSV I JUST BEAT ONE !
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justfordima |
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neil, I don't have $400 drive in drive out firstly, and secondly it doesn't drive, nor in nor out lol. But thanks for the input and offer...
jaysen, thanks for the info, I might try that, but if you wanna come by for the punishment as you call it, I am near parklea markets... how much you want for the help? Cheers
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neil101 |
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Well you didn't mention that
I'm at kellyville if you want a hand to do it you'll have to pick me up as I don't have a licence at the moment (4 mths to go yippy) Might make things a bit quicker for having someone who's done it before. Cheers Neil
_________________ HSV I JUST BEAT ONE !
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justfordima |
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lol, sounds good... I can pick you up no problem... I'm still organising this weekend, but if it can't be done this weekend it will definately be the next.
Also, how much/what do you want for the help? have you got the jack and stands? if not I'll go out and get some. I'll let you know closer to the date. Thanks heaps. Cheers
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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Jaysen |
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I can pick you up on the way through Neil, and that will make 2 of us who have done it. Im coming from Richmond. Ive got stands and a jack but its too bloody big and heavy to bring along so some one else might have to bring a jack
_________________ Dima, Mitch & Jay's RPD Last edited by Jaysen on Tue Feb 01, 2005 7:05 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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justfordima |
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lol, 2 FMers... awesome!
well, it depends on how long it will take to do??? I have the spare car sitting here with a manual... and the wagon next to it.... so, just a swap over... I just need the gearbox part out of the way.. pedal box, wiring etc I can do myself, its more of a time consuming job rather than difficult. So what do you reckon for just the gearbox swap? Cheers
_________________ ;++JustForDimSim++;
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