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dingo ford |
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by looking at the photo i would guess that the trailing arm was tightened up whilst still on stands this puts excess straign on the bush and they rip, next time lower( on to some bricks if car is lowered ) if not lowered you may be able to get under backend enough to tighten up control arm bolts, control arms must be in the operating position eg: on ground before tighting hope this helps
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arm79 |
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dingo ford wrote: by looking at the photo i would guess that the trailing arm was tightened up whilst still on stands this puts excess straign on the bush and they rip, next time lower( on to some bricks if car is lowered ) if not lowered you may be able to get under backend enough to tighten up control arm bolts, control arms must be in the operating position eg: on ground before tighting hope this helps Not necessary for urethane bushes with an unbonded centre crush tube, which by the looks of it, these bushes are. |
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Nigel |
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What they said - unbonded crush tube should have free spun.
The Superpro stuff is available at most suspension shops, Supercheap (only usefull when its 25% off), Bursons, Fulcrum etc etc Nigel |
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snap0964 |
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arm79 wrote: Someone bought Whiteline, Noltec and Red Ranger as a group a few years back. p****d off Noltec as a company and kinda merged the product ranges of the other 2. From memory, Noltec was then known as Whiteline Extra.TimmyA wrote: your other option is nolathane bushes... Hard as s**t and will last probably longer than the car I'd reckon... Provided you pull them out and lube them every few years(like any urethane bush). Like most things exposed to the road, water/crap, etc will degrade the lubrication.+1 for for Superpro, just changed over some bushes into another car after a few years/30 000K useage, very hardy. As opposed to rubber bushes, I guess it's up to you what sort of compliance (roadfeel, flexing, etc) you want your suspension to have.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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Nigel |
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Superpro also dont insist on urethane everywhere - in fact often will tell you where rubber is better.
On my XF, the steering idler is half rubber and half urethane. The ride and feel of superpro is substantially better than nolothane as well in most cases as its not as harsh, but still controls the ride movement |
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EFFalcon |
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my upper control arm bushes looked WAY worse
_________________ FALCN6 - EF GLi Turbo, 20" Rims, Air Bag Suspension, Straight LPG, 225rwkw |
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low_ryda |
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i couldn't keep nolathane in the 4 link rear of the ea, replaced every rubber bush in the car, remarkable difference, transformed it from a street car to an absolutely rough as schitt ride that was best suited for track use.
rough roads & poly = broken poly. the 4 link rear i went through 3 sets of bushes (all replaced under warranty) same as the swaybar bushes, 2-3 sets. i replaced the swaybar bushes with brass, that solved the problem and was as effective as doubling the thickness of the bar i think. i'm not game enough to make the 4 link bushes out of brass so i went back to rubber. they're still in there...
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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