Hey all,

I as driving home yesterday from work when my car started feeling a bit weird (It had a slight wobble, like and unbalanced wheel) This then began to get worse, to the point that the wheel was shaking. This also brought with it a really bad smell. So i pulled over the first chance i got.

I walked around to the front passanger side of the car to notice that the brake caliper/pad smoking. So i jacked it up and pulled the wheel off. And it seems like the piston was stuck out (ie engaged). So i game it a solid tapping with a ratchet and tried to pry it open a bit with a screw driver.

Now i know that the discs are a bit old (as they have a slight shudder under braking, and have a lip on the edge). But what could have casued the piston to stay engaged???

After i put it all back together, i thought maybe if i jump on the brakes a few times it mmight reset itself. And it has, i mianaged to drive home yesterday, and drive to work this morning with no issues.

Could it be that the piston needs to be overhauled???

SO what is the problem and how do i fix it????

PS car has about 152k on the clock

Cheers in advance

My first suggestion would be to replace the brake fluid, it should be flushed at least once a year as it absorbs a lot of gunk over time.
Then, look at new pads and Rotors and check the front hub.

Mate
Check the thickness of your brake pads they should have at least 10mm on both inner & outer pad. The calipers are floating check that there is nothing stopping them to do that, you also need to check the disc thickness you mentioned a lip on the rotor is that on both side or only one. quick check is to raise the front wheels of the ground turn the wheels see if the move freely if the dont you need to check the above

gassa

as papa smurf suggested,
the front hub bearings could be gone and the hub and disc are wobbling and that has allowed the piston to come out from excessive movement.

It happened again the other day on the way home. So i decided to bite the bulet and i went and bought DBA slotted and Bendix CT pads (but there was Ultimates in the box....SCORE).

When replacing them i had to push the piston back in, but it was extremly hard to do, so i loosend the bleed nipple on the top. I was then able to push it back in with a g clamp and the old pad. But i have noticed that the left hand side is getting alot haotter then the right. So i am led to believe that the piston is in need of a overhaul/recondition.

So my question to all is, Is it possible to do recondition them myself or do i have to pay the $520 i have been quoted by ABS???

PS The quote was $160 per caliper (they recommended doing both) as well as a fluid change and labour.

IF someone could reply ASAP that would be muchly appreciated.

$520!?

The rebuilt kits will cost you maybe $40 trade price. Easy to do, just a few seals really.

You pull them out, rebuild them, bolt them back up and bleed the fluid. Don't know how much fluid you will need, maybe $20 worth. Have the key in the ON position, engine not running, to bleed, so you have the ABS pump running and it bleeds it all nice. Spend $10 on a one man bleeder.

Total cost maybe $70.

I don't know how they can charge that much for labour, would take 15 minutes to swap the calipers and bleed.

Anyway, do it yourself.

Remember to lube the caliper slides too, I can't remember what to put on them though. Somebody will know.

I'd be weary of the Bendix Ultimates. They are a VERY harsh pad, munch the rotors quickly. I warped three sets of rotors on my EF with them. Changed to Bendix GCT, no more rotor warp....

Thanks for the reply!

I contacted Repco and i can buy a whole new caliper for $148. So i was even thinking of going that route. Mainly because i noticed that when i took the Bleed Nipple out its was all corroded and rusted.

ALso, in regards to the pads, i got the ones that have the corners cut off (sort of like diamonds), are these ultimates???

Cheers in advance

If you don't want to, or feel up to rebuilding them, buy them. Who is the supplier? Rebuilt Ford PBR Items? You could get a couple of calipers from the wreckers and have a go rebuilding them.

As for the pads, no idea.

It's a pity I haven't done my upgrade on the XR6 I. I have most of the stuff to add BA calipers and Rotors and that would leave my series I calipers up fro sale.

Like SLO 247 said, it would be advisable for you to get these Reco Calipers from Repco and replace them, especially if you are not confident with reco-ing them yourself?
I would also get about 4 500ml of same make brake fluid when you replace the calipers and bleed the WHOLE system, not just the fronts.
Brake fluid is Hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture, and it can become quite useless after a while and not hold it's heat resistant properties. Most people NEVER flush their brake fluid while they own a car, it is recommended to flush the system every year AT LEAST.

Thanks for all your help.

Is there/can anyone give me a quick rundown on how to bleed/flush the whole system?

Muchly appreciated

Go and buy a manual. I can't stress enought that it will be useful for everything that goes wrong, snd they cost f**k all.

Look it up on google, same principle for all cars. Just remember to have the ABS pump running.

I CBF typing it out.

Good luck!