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metal-mania |
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hey,
My au11 sr is having probs when i replace the brake pads. I get preped remove my cap for brake resivor and place a flat block of wood on the brake pistons, use a g clamp to push them back, fit new pads. But every time i have done so 3 times now the brakes seem to stick or not release and over heat. I bought 2 dif pad brands, bendix n some cheap s**t n makes no difference. I bleed my brakes properly, and even checked the rotor diameters and its all flush. I Regreased my calliper slides and it helped till i drove about 10 kms then My ABS light on dash lit up and i stopped, sure enough my brakes were red hot. Any help plz? |
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hans hartman |
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{USERNAME} wrote: hey, My au11 sr is having probs when i replace the brake pads. I get preped remove my cap for brake resivor and place a flat block of wood on the brake pistons, use a g clamp to push them back, fit new pads. But every time i have done so 3 times now the brakes seem to stick or not release and over heat. I bought 2 dif pad brands, bendix n some cheap s**t n makes no difference. I bleed my brakes properly, and even checked the rotor diameters and its all flush. I Regreased my calliper slides and it helped till i drove about 10 kms then My ABS light on dash lit up and i stopped, sure enough my brakes were red hot. Any help plz? how tight was the g clamp pushing the pistons back?pistons may be stuck and not springing back when the pressure is released.
_________________ R.I.P HANS HARTMAN |
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tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
The pistons are tight. need a rebuild.
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cjh |
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AU2's have Phenolic caliper pistons...you'll need a rebuild by the sounds of it.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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efxr6wagon |
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Piston seized in the caliper for sure. Had the same once on my EF.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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metal-mania |
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the pistons went in smooth. It just seem that once i put the pads in, i pump the brake they just stay on. I have to keep putting my old pads back on. They work fine with the old pads.
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cjh |
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Crud builds up behind the pistons in the caliper, hence why I change the brake fluid the way I do.
I use a vacuum brake bleeder......suck out the old fluid from the reservoir, clean out the crud there if possible and refill with new fluid, clamp off the brake hose, remove and clear the bleeder nipple, put Antisieze compound on the thread of the bleeder nipple, refit, and put the vacuum bleeder on the nipple, crack the bleeder open anmd suck out the fliud till clean stuff comes through. Then reclamp the hose, and help the piston/s go back in, then undo the clamp till clear again. Do this on all 4 calipers. Remember to keep an eye on the reservoir fluid level. Fit new pads if required, check the caliper slides are free. then pump out the pads with engine running, BUT, only pump it anout 1/4 to 1/3 the pedal travel..... DO NOT PUMP IT TO THE FLOOR. A brake master cylinder really only wears the first 1/4 to 1/3 of the cylinder.....pumping it past this point can be detremental to the master cylinder.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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metal-mania |
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thanks heaps for the tips and the pics mate. ill give it a go, will keep posted.
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metal-mania |
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It tried as stated above, there was minimal sludge build up. There was a difference but the brakes still stick on after a short drive. I thought maybe uneven wear on the rotors but they are flush and smooth.
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