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| low_ryda |
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and no you don't need another tail shaft, although alot of people usually just get one with the conversion.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| Dansedgli |
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low_ryda wrote: and no you don't need another tail shaft, although alot of people usually just get one with the conversion. Yes you do. 
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| 67RCE |
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Dansedgli wrote: low_ryda wrote: and no you don't need another tail shaft, although alot of people usually just get one with the conversion. Yes you do. Only in AU-FG. But I'm sure Dan knew that. The AU onwards manuals are significantly longer than a pre AU manual box. The Auto's are the same length.
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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| Dansedgli |
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This is an AU manual conversion thread isnt it.
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| low_ryda |
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it's an auII thread actually
 with my conversion, side by side the auto tailshaft that came out was the same length as the manual one that went in (auII), just with a balancing weight(?) on the yolk which actually reduced the available travel in/out from the box. i know the au box is longer (40mm?) but i still thought the tailshafts were the same, if i've been supplied an auto shaft with my manual conversion (which i doubt, it all came from the same car) it still worked so proves it ? Now i'm confused hehe
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| Dansedgli |
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I tried fitting my auto tailshaft into the manual box because I didnt have a manual ute shaft at the time.
The yoke bottomed out in the gearbox and the shaft was still too long to mount to the diff. Is your car lowered? Maybe that makes enough of a difference to get the auto one to fit. |
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| low_ryda |
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i was going to say, as i understand the more you lower the car the further the yolk protrudes inside the box. Having said that though, as far as i know i'm only standard XR ride height. nothing non-standard.
I also never tried it on either, maybe the auto shafts have a shallower centre preventing the interchange like e series ? another ford killjoy lol
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| Dansedgli |
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How much room do you have on your yoke when the car is parked?
My car was standard XL ute height when I did the conversion. |
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| TROYMAN |
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the au manual tailshaft should be aprox 50mm shorter then the auto one..
eg, an au auto is the same as e series and is a direct swap into ed ect using e series tailshaft. but the au 5 speed is longer and is not a direct swap for e series,as the shift sits further back.. |
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| low_ryda |
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you have me worried now.... next time i'm under it i'll re-assess.
when your talking about measuring room dan do you mean from the box housing to the end of the parallel part of the yolk to assess travel ? because the 'balancer' i have on the manual tailshaft actually reduces this travel. hard to explain... Attachment: phpUIGbghPM.jpg [ 85.23 KiB | Viewed 192 times ] that was the manual shaft supplied with conversion, side by side with the auto shaft that came out, apart from that balancer they were the same.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| skidder |
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Not sure if sedans are different to utes, but I'm fairly sure as well as the tailshaft overall length being different the yokes had different lengths when I did mine...
I can't 100% remember and cbf pulling it out to check though.
_________________ EVL098 wrote: Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con. Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays? AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone. |
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| low_ryda |
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i've done too many trouble free km's already in mine to be pulling it out also... (touch wood) i'm still curious now though.
Thats why i miss my e series  go go gadget transformer!
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| adam_k |
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Grimketel wrote: At this point, with the gearbox changed over and the pedal box in you will need a tow to a tuner with SCT software to reflash your ecu. A guy in geelong did mine with ticky police maps, a 5700rpm limit and removed speed limiter for 200 bucks. Not that the ticky police maps do any good without the ticky head cam and fuel reg, but Ill take it anyway lol. How many tuners can do this? Anyone know someone in Melb? |
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| low_ryda |
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i didn't need to do that with an auII smartsheild xr......
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| adam_k |
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hi guys,
all went well with the conversion. still running auto ecu (but in contact with a guy off the forums about getting it flashed to a manual one as the ecu i recieved was an S1 WAAC catchcode). so i have a few questions with my last issues. clutch is QUITE hard... is this normal? (even though i replaced the clutch cable and bushes, and the clutch & flywheel i got were in quite good nick, also new throwout bearing) also will i have to change anything to do with the wiring? i had the clutch switch for cruise set up, i bridged the inhibitor for starting, and used the existing spade connectors from the auto for the reverse lights. anything i'm missing if it is to be flashed to a manual ecu? (what does flashing it to a manual actually do?) thanks guys! |
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