On 2 occasions now, once when car was warm, and once this morning on a cold start the car jumps forward when starting it in Park.

Then i find there is no reverse, you rev it, and you can feel its not quite free revving but it doesnt move. Also will drive forwards in Neutral, and Park. Then the problem will all of a sudden go away. This morning i just revved it to 3000rpm and it clicked into reverse and was fine then. The 1st time it happened i had to get the mechanic to push the car out of the shop, and within the 1st set of lights i found the problem was gone also

I was thinking inhibitor switch, but it im not sure? I removed it today and sprayed WD40 on the terminals & plugs as they were a bit oily. Next time it happens i will try & see if it starts in Drive, then will that mean its defintely the switch?

Seals in the gearbox I'd say.

Your burnt out C2 clutch is starting to weld it's self together.
When the lining wears off the friction plates,It goes metal to metal with the steel plates & welds it self together as if the clutch has been applied - that is why it binds up in reverse & wants to drive forward in neutral & park.
Eventually you will not be able to "break it free" & the symptoms that you have will become permanent - New transmission time & soon!

An easy test for a faulty BTR inhibitor switch is if you select manual "1" & drive off, If it automatically shifts into 2nd while the T-Bar is still in 1st gear - The switch is faulty.

thats f**k great ..... but thanks for letting me know !!

so you reckon the labour & parts involved might not be worth fixing this box? It shifts nicely once it gets going, thats why i was debating to fix this one or get another reco box

and yeah tried putting it in 1st, and it stays in 1st so doesnt look to be the switch

btw: i hope your reading this "Sommers NL"....... nothing wrong with the gearbox my a** !!!

All you can do is pull it out & take it to your chosen trans shop for a "strip & quote" - They will assess the damage & give you a quote to overhaul it & take it from there. If it was only done recently,you might be up for a basic rebuild + new C2 steels.

It all depends on if there is any "Hard part" damage - Pump, planetary,clutch drums etc.That is where the $$ come into it.

ok, the gearbox does whine, especially noticable on the highway.

If the filter is blocked with your burnt out clutch, It causes the pump to cavitate - starve for oil & make the pump "whine".

But i would say you have the dreaded "BTR 93 geartrain noise" They are usually noisy 1st & 2nd - quiet for 3rd & noisy again in 4th.

The earlier BTR 85's & 91's (EA EB ED) didn't have the problem as much, But when they made the BTR 93 in the EF, nearly all of them had it.

Mention it to the guy who does the strip & quote - He will probably won't find anything wrong with the geartrain (It's the pitch & angle of the teeth of the gears that causes the noise) & if you don't mention it, you'll get it back with the same noise - And it's not the fault of the rebuilder.
Does the noise bother you? - If it does,you will be up for another geartrain- $$

And yes, you can use a BTR85 or 91 geartrain in a BTR93...

i can live with a whine if it means the box can still function normal and not get worse after fixing the other parts. It only started whining after the box lost all its oil and i limped it to the servo ...

i tell ya what, its complete s**t when ive ended up with. In the last 5 months that ive spent on mods, then add up what THIS is gonna cost me..... i couldve sold this car and bought a f**k AU Fairlane/Fairmont Ghia, or a BA/BF

Mate... That just sucks, but you've had a good time playing with cams and the like and if you like your car half as much as I pretend to like mine you'll persevere.

Xpvanman knows his stuff... Real interesting reading all those posts, above... Not sure what it's like there, but in NZ you can get a auto of this nature for $200, or $350 with a guarantee for a month or so. If it fails, you can just swap it for another within your allotted time frame.

From the interactions I've had with auto repairers I'd say throw it back at Sommers Bloody NL and get that $700 she offered you on another thread. Give her the torque convertor and the box and take her $7 hundy. You could then get another box with a real guarantee.

If you can get a similar tranny for a few hundred and start from scratch then do it that way man. Sommers box can go back to where it came from. Wasn't it driven quite hard for a while anyway?

""Some mods work, some mods are hard work.""
(Hey - that could be a t-shirt..!)




Question for xpvanman, or anyone who knows, if you don't mind...
How much should a good performing auto drive the wheels when in neutral? One of mine would hardly turn a wheel at all if driven wheels were lifted and motor was running with shifter in Neutral, where as other one would turn the rear right wheel (non lsd diff) quite a bit when a*** end lifted and in Neutral.

i'd rather find out how to fix this myself, and whinge & complain in the meantime.

whats a quick way of indentifying what box it is?

85le, 93le etc.

Tag numbers must have a list around the internet somewhere... I found the actual real people at Borg Warner and Tremec very helpful with the specifics of my T5, but surely there'd be a tag number luist of sorts around the world wide whatever.

It is the rear band slightly applied or dragging that makes the rear wheels turn when the car is raised with the engine running - It is nothing to worry about.

The rear band is only used in manual "1st" or reverse so it is kept at a tight tolerance to prevent a harsh reverse engagement.If you had a 85 or a 91,You can adjust the bands externally - the rear band adjustment is up tight,back off 3/4 of a turn. You can adjust a 93,but you have to drop the valvebody & it's a "shim" adjustment for them.

If one car drives more in neutral than the other car,it just means the rear band hasn't been used as much as the other - It is a "solid" band-about 10mm thick,you will never break it!

The easiest way to tell the model of your transmission is - An 85 or 91 have 4 bolts holding the bellhousing to the case where as a 93 have 7 bolts holding it to the case.

Another way is there is a raised serial stamp near the front cooler fitting, if it goes 0593 - it's a 93

If you want to know the exact year & month of manufacture, Just above the inhibitor switch, there is a raised "O" - about the size of a 20c piece. It the middle there will be a number (95, 98, etc) - that is the year manufacture & around the outside of the "O" there is 12 segments, where the segments of the ones "dotted" in finish - thats the month of manufacture.

ok thanks, that info will help me find a suitable box to go with my new stall