|
Benny D |
|
|||
|
hi guys, today drivin around the suburbs lookin for some washing machine parts... long story..
anywho. brakes were fine as useual just touch them and you stop then the pedal starts pushing down further and further for no apparent reason. now as soon as you touch the brakes theres a tiny bit of braking done then nothing for half way down till almost on the floor the brakes work. it seems like somthings not holding the pressure in the brake lines till the pedal is almost on the floor and its a bit un-nerving driving in traffic after a bit of searching i have found if the booster has shlt itself the pedal should be hard. so probly not that. but one thing that caught my eye was possible master cylinder failiure which it might be anyone else had similar or has a better idea i would gladly try it out. also, is the master cylinder hard to change? it doesnt look too bad but i would rather not be swapping things for no reason. on my ba 3v auto. cheers.
_________________ BA XT V8. Ice Mint. 18" Speedys. XR6T LSD. Full Pacemaker twin 2 1/2inch Stainless Steel system. Custom CAI. Black XR interior with white trimming. Powerbond underdrive kit 25%. |
|||
Top | |
TROYMAN |
|
||
|
first check for fluid loss, if no aparent loss then more than likely the master cyl is at fault..
but while at the wreckers today i noticed the pedal box on ba is made of plastic, i would just check it , just in case... never heard of one cracking but you never know... |
||
Top | |
Benny D |
|
|||
|
She is full of fluid but one thing I noticed while checking was its f#@ken,hot. Lol.
Could this be the result of overheating the brake fluid? As I was just putting around slowly on a 40 degree day for a while. Also I parked my car for a few hours and now its cooled off the pedal is almost back to normal. So is it possible nothing is stuffed, just baked the fluid? And probly obvious but I have to flush the cooked fluid out now aye?..
_________________ BA XT V8. Ice Mint. 18" Speedys. XR6T LSD. Full Pacemaker twin 2 1/2inch Stainless Steel system. Custom CAI. Black XR interior with white trimming. Powerbond underdrive kit 25%. |
|||
Top | |
TROYMAN |
|
||
|
if the pedal has come good after a cool down, i would say the fluid is definatly overdue for a change / flush...
|
||
Top | |
Benny D |
|
|||
|
Yay spend more money on my car. Lol.
Whats the best order to flush the old junk out? Rr,lr,lf,rf? Or does it even matter these days?..
_________________ BA XT V8. Ice Mint. 18" Speedys. XR6T LSD. Full Pacemaker twin 2 1/2inch Stainless Steel system. Custom CAI. Black XR interior with white trimming. Powerbond underdrive kit 25%. |
|||
Top | |
Benny D |
|
|||
|
so after f**king around in the 40 degree sun all morning flushing the fluid.
note for all if you have to work on a car in 40 degrees just leave the c*%t on the road and sit inside drinking beer. trust me. i found somthing that was a bit concerning. the right rear caliper seems to have been stuck on for a little while, which has in turn made it sooo hot it has melted the heat resistant paint i put on them. the very same paint that is on my rocker covers and they are still nice and blue. which puts into perspective how hot it got. also my back pads were about half a mm away from metal on metal, so lucky i had some new ones stashed away for a day like this. i had to take the whole caliper off and use a socket and hammer to get the piston to move back into its spot. after it started moving a bit of crap flew out and it was fine. and the fluid that came out of that line was black. the other side seems to have almost started on the same issue but i caught it early and got it mooving again. all except that right rear had relatively green looking fluid but were still flushed with nice bright green stuff. now seems all good again. next on the list is changing the gearbox oil.
_________________ BA XT V8. Ice Mint. 18" Speedys. XR6T LSD. Full Pacemaker twin 2 1/2inch Stainless Steel system. Custom CAI. Black XR interior with white trimming. Powerbond underdrive kit 25%. |
|||
Top | |
efxr6wagon |
|
||
|
Sounds like a seized caliper was the problem and you caught it just in time. A seized caliper puts HUGE heat into the fluid at that corner. My EF did it on the left rear, and got hot enough to char the green paint on my EBC Greenstuff pads and cause the pad material to start crumbling. You could smell burning every time I stopped, and you could feel the heat from nearly a metre away. You could hear twanging and popping noises from the expansion and contraction. Brake fluid attracts and absorbs water. If your fluid is more than a couple months old, there will be enough moisture in it to vapourise and create a gas pocket in the system. Gas compresses, so your pedal would feel like marshmallow.
Getting the piston moving again will get you moving, but it's worth checking regularly. Whatever caused it to seize in the first place probably is still there. You may have to rebuild the caliper to fix it permanently (kits are readily available for a reasonable price).
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
||
Top | |
Benny D |
|
|||
|
cheers, yea will keep my eye on it.
after whakin it with the hammer a bit of burnt fluid flew out then it mooved freely as it was supposed to.
_________________ BA XT V8. Ice Mint. 18" Speedys. XR6T LSD. Full Pacemaker twin 2 1/2inch Stainless Steel system. Custom CAI. Black XR interior with white trimming. Powerbond underdrive kit 25%. |
|||
Top | |
Who is online |
---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 34 guests |