|
| fatnsticky |
|
|||
|
ABC runout tool? I use a magnetic base and stand, and a dial indicator. Base around $55, dial indicator $70-$220
No, brake dust covers won't have anything to do with brake shudder as they are not part of the hub. A bent cover may cause a normal driving shudder as it might stop the wheel from being on square. But u would see that on installing the wheel. Never heard of correction shims. It's great that ur having a go at it but for the time and money ur spending, and to buy measuring equipment is it worth going to a brake specialist to get them to diagnose. They can also look at bushes, ball joints, etc while u wait.
_________________ If u can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ronsta86 |
|
||
|
fatnsticky wrote: ABC runout tool? I use a magnetic base and stand, and a dial indicator. Base around $55, dial indicator $70-$220 No, brake dust covers won't have anything to do with brake shudder as they are not part of the hub. A bent cover may cause a normal driving shudder as it might stop the wheel from being on square. But u would see that on installing the wheel. Never heard of correction shims. It's great that ur having a go at it but for the time and money ur spending, and to buy measuring equipment is it worth going to a brake specialist to get them to diagnose. They can also look at bushes, ball joints, etc while u wait. i think i might just do that mate. instead of paying 75 buks for a tool, might as well pay that towards the mechanics and get them to pin point the cause. Appreciate everyones help. once i find the cause i will post here just for any one elses future reference. |
||
| Top | |
||
| fatnsticky |
|
|||
|
good luck with it all Ron
_________________ If u can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ronsta86 |
|
||
|
ok...being stubborn and insisting that i try everything i can myself before i see a specialist, i purchased the rotor runout dial tool.
The front rotor runout measured 0.06mm. After swapping the rotor 1-2 studs along, i managed to get both the front rotors down to 0.03mm and the rear rotors to 0.02mm. Shudder was significantly reduced but i still experiance shudder. The Ford workshop manual says the front can have up to 0.08mm runout and 0.05mm for the rear if i recall correctly. So im well below the specificiation, but still have shudder. Are my runout tolerances acceptable? I have 4 brand new tyres on... so i guess side wall issues are out of the equation now. i will wait to hear opinions if my runout is acceptable and go from there for the next step to tackle. appreciate your help. |
||
| Top | |
||
| AU99 |
|
|||
|
I would try swapping front wheels to the rear and visa versa..... possible could be a bent rim???
worth a try at least to discount it..... a wheel out of balance or bent will most like show up in 90kmh range, dunno why, it just does for some reason.... when they balanced the rims did you see the rims running on the balancer???
_________________ 2003 BA Falcon Egas Taxi Pack - XR Replica |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ronsta86 |
|
||
|
AU99,
i got the new tyres put on last weekend and balanced. I also got wheel alignment after. I saw the guy put the wheels on the balancer but i didn not pay much attention. Guy did the alignment at another shop and it was all good pretty much apart from the rear being 1.2 mm out. I will swap and put on my dads ED fairmont 15" rims on when i get a chance and see if that eliminated the issue. Trial and error is the key i guess. cheers |
||
| Top | |
||
| comagutsa |
|
||
|
all this time and money.
it would of been better to machine your discs in the 1st place and be done with it. if it still shudders after that you may have some loose suspension/steering/brearings |
||
| Top | |
||
| ronsta86 |
|
||
|
i have already replaced all 4 rotors to new, and brake pads.
ill check suspension. |
||
| Top | |
||
| BF XR |
|
||
|
dont try putting ED or 15" wheels on
ED wheels will not fit and 15s will not clear the brakes i also had this problem when i purchased my BA XR6 and i know what an annoyance it can be. i purchased DBA 4000 series Slotted Rotors for the fronts and DBA street series Slotted Rotors for the rear all with Bendix General CT pads (this was the same setup i chose for dads BF XR6 3 years ago and he had 3 years of 0 brake issues) i paid my local mechanic $50 to whack it all on and ive had 0 shudder since. sounds like a buckled rim to me, i hit a pothole coming home from work last week and buckled a rim its in getting repaired at the moment |
||
| Top | |
||
| Papa Smurf |
|
||
|
One other thing it COULD be, the front Hubs, when worn they can cause shuddering.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| ronsta86 |
|
||
|
hi all,
just thought id post my solution, incase someone does a search in the future they will have a possible cause. I started scratching my head and considering maybe my brand new front rotors were not machined properly from the factory or the new bendix pads were not good. I machined my front rotors replaced the brake pads with Australian Disc Brakes Performance (which is similar compound as bendix) except it cost half the price and i no longer have brake shudder. Problem solved...faulty front pads or disc rotor. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Stu5766 |
|
||
Age: 43 Posts: 78 Joined: 15th Jun 2010 Ride: XD Fairmont Ghia 351 Location: Blue Mountains |
Hey guys, I would check the booster.
BA's had a problem with booster rod tolerance causing the brakes to apply at 80-100kmh. A reco booster will fix this. Cheers Stu |
||
| Top | |
||
| arm79 |
|
|||
|
ronsta86 wrote: hi all, just thought id post my solution, incase someone does a search in the future they will have a possible cause. I started scratching my head and considering maybe my brand new front rotors were not machined properly from the factory or the new bendix pads were not good. I machined my front rotors replaced the brake pads with Australian Disc Brakes Performance (which is similar compound as bendix) except it cost half the price and i no longer have brake shudder. Problem solved...faulty front pads or disc rotor. That prob wont fix it. Chances are it will come back. http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11308077 <-- A good read. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| au055 |
|
||
Age: 69 Posts: 167 Joined: 3rd Jul 2009 Ride: 2002 AU Fairlane Sportsman Location: Narellan |
Hi ronsta86, the painter at my work had a similar problem and his calipers had a rattle as well. After a lot of hassling the local Ford dealer, they finally changed over one caliper and inserted a sleeve kit into the hole where the mounting bolts go though the caliper to the stub. It is cured at the moment but he has spoken to a few other BA owners and they have the same issue. It might help, just get a ruber mallet and tap the calipers. If they rattle it might be the worn bolts.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| 1Rik_Biel |
|
|||
|
Stu5766 wrote: Hey guys, I would check the booster. BA's had a problem with booster rod tolerance causing the brakes to apply at 80-100kmh. A reco booster will fix this. Cheers Stu Sounds exactly like my problem. Driving along in that speed range and no brakes applied - get the wobbles. Very annoying. I have the FTG upgraded brakes up front - so I know/hope they are not warped. In fact I know they aren't because Ford adjusted it but now it is back! It was good for a while after they did it. So how much is a reco booster worth and how difficult to fit?
_________________ BIONIC 2005 BA Mk2 XR6 - XR8 Snorkle - Typhoon 2nd CAI - K & N Panel Filter - polished BBM intake - polished ceramic coated Pacemaker 4490 headers - Magnaflow 3.5" high flow Cat - Full mandrel stainless exh syst - 4speed SSS -BPT Custom tune - 20% UDrive - XR8 Calipers/rotors - 175 rwkw |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 189 guests |
