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| twr7cx |
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Anyone about to tell me about these - ball joints (upper and lower?), rack ends and tie rod ends.
Over the next month I'm going to be redoing all the wagons bushes with Nolathane replacments (got a Evolution kit for the front and then just the loose bushes for the rear (as they only offer the full Evolution kit for the sedans)), aswell as fitting the King Springs (lows replacement leafs for the rear) and Monroe Sensatracs I've had lying here for ages. Now back to my question I've got a nice clunk when I'm breaking which I've been told is a rooted ball joint. And I was talking to another bloke the other day and he said that there pressed in so to just remove the arm and bring it to him and work and he'll remove it and fit the new one. So how do I know which ones f**k? Or should I just replace them all? And what about tie rod ends and rack ends, how do I check them? |
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| msman |
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balljoint check, jack up car and use a lever to try and lift one side of car from bottom ball joint if theres any play its gone.(err hope that makes sense)
i would personally replace them in pairs, i.e. if doing the right lower one then do the left lower as well. the bloke is right they have to be pressed out and in, i believe there is a clamp like tool available which means you don't need a press, don't know price. tie rod ends check, jack up car peel the rubber boot off it and get someone to move steering side to side and look/listen for any loose ness in em. tie rod ends check, just twist em and feel for any looseness, or put your hand on em when someone is moving steering and feel for looseness.
_________________ why do u write in here. |
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| arm79 |
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But seeing as you work at a Repco, I know they can get changeover replacement spindles with new ball joints.
Alot quicker and easier than having to get yours pressed, and only a few $$$ more. |
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| twr7cx |
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I looked at the Nolathane ones, and they were bloody expensive. I didn't have much time to see exactly what it was, but it was something including ball joints by them, it was a busy weekend at work this weekend, sucks.
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| arm79 |
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mmm... I didnt know Nolathane did new spindles.
I know there is another company that does them. You're price would be around the $90 mark I would guess. |
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| twr7cx |
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The Nolathane tingos I came accross were $340ish mark. A set of TRW Ball Joints (which are replacing the Repco brand ones, and are the decent brand ones compared to the poxy Silverline - a brand which Repco own) are like $41.00 retail a pop.
Do new spindles have both upper and lower ball joint fitted to them (I don't even know if both fit on the spindle or were they go)? |
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| arm79 |
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Yep. Have both upper and lower fitted.
If your going to goto the effort of taking the spindle out, I'd do both. |
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| twr7cx |
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Redranger Nolathane Control arm - lower arm pair 45908, Complete remanufacturered arms - easy installation refer page 26 (http://www.nolathane.com.au/proc_selection.php). Comes as a pair with both sides in it.
I dunno if these are them? |
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| twr7cx |
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there's a picture on the site, but it's not working for me.
http://www.nolathane.com.au/photos/45908.jpg |
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| twr7cx |
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And I can't get to page 26 of the catalogueonline. Only got vehicle listsings that I can find.
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| arm79 |
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The lower arm and spindle are 2 different things. The lower arm doesnt have any ball joints in it.
And I know those arms well... Fitted them to my car last weekend. And if thats your buy price as Repco staff, you are getting ripped by over $100. I assume if you're looking at lower arms, then you've been told your bushes are rooted too. If you want a cheap way out, I have the lower arms with genuine Ford urethane bushes from my wreck. I only replaced them mid last year, so they are still pretty new. Still hard like new and undamaged. |
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| twr7cx |
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I got no idea what my price is. I'm not even sure if that's what I came accross. I'm gunna replace all the bushes to Nolathane anyways. The new replacement Nolathane arms are no better than the standard one (fitted with new Nolathane bushes are they? As the bushes come in the Evolution kit).
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| arm79 |
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The replacement arms are just cleaned and repainted factory arms with new Nolathane bushes.
They work out a good deal because you need special tools and presses to get the original bushes out as they are metal cased rubber or urethane. When I changed my Tickford ones last year, it took my mechanic over an hour to do them. |
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| msman |
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afaik the nolathane arms are just like you say standard items fitted with nolathane bushes, so you don't have to press any thing in.
noltec also do exchange uprights but rrp is $300+ i think superpro/fulcrum is your best bet for exchange uprights as other posts have mentioned prices around the $150 mark.
_________________ why do u write in here. |
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| arm79 |
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msman wrote: afaik the nolathane arms are just like you say standard items fitted with nolathane bushes, so you don't have to press any thing in.
Dunno why you say "afaik" and they are like I say. 
I've just said that I just fitted them to my car... I have a spare set at home. So I know exactly what they look like, exactly how much the cost, exactly how they fit together and exactly much fun they are to put in. So the info I am giving it 110% correct. 
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