After reading that I'm definitely getting new pads.

O.K., I used to get brake shudder, usually after only a few thousand K's until I found the problem. What I found was that one of the front caliper pistons was not retracting properly, and causing a pad (usually the inner) to remain dragging on the rotor. This of course caused heat, which in turn created the DTV, or Disc Thickness Variation.

I have solved the problem by, each time I renew the pads, I also put a kit through the front calipers. At this point in time, I have had no further problems with DTV.

BTW, I have used Bendix pads solely for 35 years now, and have never had any problems. Also use RDA rotors with no problems

I use Bendix because they are dust free

the bendix of today is much different to the bendix of say 10 years ago.
look at there current ct pads with the stealth technology "wtf" lol ..
the pads don't last no where near the amount of km from the old design, or as long as any other brand, yea there fine on a std car wth std rotors driven by a normal person that drives like old lady..

They may be fine on Std Rotors but I have found them not good when using Slotted rotors. I doubt Taxi's use slotted rotors .

I was recommended Repco Thermoquiet Pads by a good friend and have found them quite good on slotted rotors. Good bite from cold and stop quite well. Bit dust but no where near as bad as some.

ive just bought some repco pads, they tell me there rebranded forodo's?

so il put them in over the next couple of days and I let use know how they go.

bit disappointed with how the bendix and rda went I used to have a vq stato and I had dba slotted and cross drilled with bendix ultimates and never had one drama with shudder.

o well that's life.

you should get the rotors machined.
you may find that if you just fit the new pads to the current rotors the problem will still be there as the damage has already been done..

Dunno about the "normal person" bit..............

Are you still running ADB (Aust disc brake) rotors Paul?
Also running the ADB pads ?

If so, how are you finding their performance ?

I had Bendix Ultimates on DBA slotted and drilled rotors... It was shocking... I had good pedal feel but just no bite out of the pads... Even the dual diaphragm booster couldn't help it, nor braided lines to increase the pressure at the caliper...

Now I run DBA T4's with RDA pads... Much better pad than the Bendix... Old man was Bendix through and through but some sets he used a while back were just crap so he has switched to RDA's now and other than being a bit dusty (esp on the turbo which is on std rotors), at least they stop...

Cheers,
Tim

I was running them. I have them now on the wagon and find them very good. Pads are great, good stopping power and very long lasting with little dust.

I must have a dud batch - I'm running their slotted and dimpled rotors - pads are very ordinary though.
I get bad shudder through the steering wheel - much like the OP's are. It's not disc runout, or bearing adjustment. It did this right from the outset.
The pads were losing material - here's how they looked at 1500 km.

 

 

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I had RDA slotted and Bendix Ultimate no problems for many many kilometres. I concur with other comments - I kit the front calipers and lube the slides every time.

I got sick of cleaning snowflake wheels every few days so recently I tried going to Bendix CT. That lasted less than 2000km horrible noise and truly truly scary brake performance.

I just did the EA all round new DBA slotted rotors and trying the Bosch Quikstop pads. Seem good but have a slight squeal in rear end. Looking into it but seems the Bosch pads are a good compromise between dust and good braking.

As a comment, I recently did my XH with DBA T2 and Bendix HD pads. I think this is the perfect combo but if you don't mind dust I always found Bendix Ultimates are a very good product. They are aggressive on discs but I change discs every set of pads anyhow.

ok folks a bit of an update.

ive pulled the bendix ultimate pads out of eddie the ed and had a look.

the boots on the caliper pistons look all fine, not cracked or broken and the pistons are all the way back in the calipers so il assume there retracting in as per spec.

the discs look ok I suppose (the orangey mark in the pic is just the light on the shed) there dusty as.
im going to go to repco tomorrow and get a dial gauge to check the runout.

the ultimate pads do look a bit glazed.
now heres were it gets interesting, the lighter colour pads are the new unused repco/ferodo pad. I measured the thickness of the pad friction material and the ultimates are 8mm after approx. 3000km and the new repco/ferodos are 7mm.

the overall pad thickness
bendix ultimate 14mm
repco/ferodo 13mm

so my questions are

1. does anyone know what the spec would be for acceptable disc run out? id like to check it before I put the new pads in. if im up for a machine I may as well just buy some aftermarket normal rotors as there wont be much price difference and at least il know the rotors have plenty of meat on them.

2.why are the bendix ultimates 1mm thicker? 2x pads in the caliper, thats 2mm thicker maybe this is making the brakes drag. I have stopped the car when the shudder occurs, jacked it up and spun the wheels and the don't feel like there dragging

 

 

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The pad thickness is fine. How do you decrease the cost of a brake pad? Easy, less friction material. Some accountant got a bonus for that....

As for runout I work off a maximum of 0.002 inch approx. 5 mm in from the disc outer edge or the area at the edge where there are no slots. For reference the factory manual specified 0.08mm total runout which is close enough to 0.003 inch.

Ok folks final update.

I went to repco and tried to get a dial gauge. They didnt have one in stock so i got a can of brake cleaner and went home cleaned the rotors and fitted the repco/forodo pads and im happy to say after 2 days of driving there has been no shudder.


Im very happy now and starting to enjoy eddie the ed again.

Cheers folks!