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| crossroads |
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Hi everyone. I decided to give eddy the ed falcon and birthday present about 4 months ago of
Bendix ultimate front pads Rda slotted and dimpled rotors New front wheel bearings New brake fluid Cleaned and greased caliper slides The car only does about 70-100km a week and does get driven hard or through city traffic. And it has horrible brake shudder. It can occur usually within 5 to 15min of driving. Light or heavy brake applications. Mainly light. Its really annoying.they would be lucky to have done 2000km! Ive rechecked the slides and wheel bearings there both ok. Ive even pulled over when they have started shuddering jacked up the car and spun the wheels to make sure there is no drag. I can live with the rediculous amount of brake dust but the shudder is driving me insane. Has anyone else had this combination of pad and rotors? Any dramas? Im tempted to rip them out and just put the cheap and nasty pads and rotors on. Thanks everyone.
_________________ the road to hell is paved with good intentions. |
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| 93EB |
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Age: 47 Posts: 2486 Joined: 6th Oct 2005 Ride: 93EB Fairmont / BA Falcon XR6T Location: Western Sydney |
They shouldnt have warped that quick. Possibly the back rotors are suspect ? Both my Falcons have a tad brake shudder on fairly new rotors as well and they are slotted and drilled on the EB. I think its a standard feature they come with.
_________________ 93 EB II Fairmon8 with 17' EL GT's / Clear indicators / H.I.Ds / Sports exhaust / Lowered 2' / K&N / XR6 ECU. |
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| crossroads |
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Ha yep it seems to be standard
Im sure its front because when i apply the brakes the steering wheel shakes badly. Thanks
_________________ the road to hell is paved with good intentions. |
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| 93EB |
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Age: 47 Posts: 2486 Joined: 6th Oct 2005 Ride: 93EB Fairmont / BA Falcon XR6T Location: Western Sydney |
Check wheel bearing nut torque and maybe torque up wheel nuts to correct tightness too. See if it helps.
The the next thing i will look into myself when i get a chance as well.
_________________ 93 EB II Fairmon8 with 17' EL GT's / Clear indicators / H.I.Ds / Sports exhaust / Lowered 2' / K&N / XR6 ECU. |
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| 90na2 |
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I have the exact same problem. I have rda slotted and dimpled discs and I had ebc pads on. Once the shuddering started I checked the wheel bearings and found they are fine. I then replaced the pads with bendix ct and the shudder is still there. I've done about 1500km with the new discs and 500km on the new pads. The shudder is still there and it makes my steering wheel shake like crazy.
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| TROYMAN |
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bendix ct pads are rubbish, they leave material build up between the slots on the rotors causing shaking..
I have found, believe it or not ,, the rda extreme hd pads are really cheap and work great. only downside is they are dusty. and just a bit of trivia, rda is owned by ebc, |
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| 90na2 |
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I dont have any build up in my slots and I know rda is owned by ebc. When my discs turned up the box had rda and ebc on them. I was using ebc green stuff pads which was good when I was driving quick and stupid but now that I've slowed down my driving the ebc pads were horrible.
I haven't anything bad about the bendix ct hence why I went with them. What the difference between ct and ultimate? |
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| SWC |
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I wouldn't run Bendix pads on slotted rotors.
{USERNAME} wrote: bendix ct pads are rubbish, they leave material build up between the slots on the rotors causing shaking.. I have found, believe it or not ,, the rda extreme hd pads are really cheap and work great. only downside is they are dusty. and just a bit of trivia, rda is owned by ebc, Listen to what Troyman said. |
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| 90na2 |
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So crossroads and I should should swap pads to rda extreme hd then? If we get those pads and the problem is still there what do I check? Where would one get the pads would recommend have them?
Sorry about all the questions. |
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| crossroads |
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As above but also do i need to get my discs machined? The brake shudder isnt always there straight away so can i possibly get away with just replacing the pads.
Thanks
_________________ the road to hell is paved with good intentions. |
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| btv |
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I have a 97 EL Futura wagon with 260ks
Each year over the Xmas break I change the oil and filter and check it over. Replace or repair anything needed that I can do. Normally travel about 15k a year. Last year replaced front rotors and pads. Just the cheap ones from Repco, on special, pads and rotors, I think it cost about $100 all up. Checked 3 days ago, discs hardly any wear, pads will do at least another 40ks. This year the old and reliable falcoon had 2 trips to Melbourne and covered 24ks. The brakes are perfect, no shudder, no problems. If you don't do a lot of k's and don't want to be a boy racer, why change to slotted rotors. Don't mess around with all the fancy upgrades, you don't need it. Ford sold it with a standard brake set up, stay with it. |
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| 90na2 |
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I got mine because of what Launceston is like. With my old solid rotors I would have to come off the brake pedal and go back onto it as the gas build up caused my lane to lose half its braking capacity. I thought it was the pads so I got the discs machined and put on the ebc greenstuff pads. I had the same problem but I dealt with it for about 2000km then I put on the slotted and dimpled rotors and I no longer have to come off the pedal. Now I've got this shuddering problem shaking the steering wheel when I brake. It lessened a bit with new pads but it's still annoying. I'll try the pads suggested when I get paid and see how it goes.
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| phongus |
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I have run DBA slotted rotors with Bendix Ultimate pads and haven't had any issues with brake shudder or poor braking. Gone through 3 sets with the EL. This was when I was driving like I stole it and I'm heavy footed on the brakes.
Do you bed the brakes in after replacing them?
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| xcabbi |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I wouldn't run Bendix pads on slotted rotors. {USERNAME} wrote: bendix ct pads are rubbish, they leave material build up between the slots on the rotors causing shaking.. I have found, believe it or not ,, the rda extreme hd pads are really cheap and work great. only downside is they are dusty. and just a bit of trivia, rda is owned by ebc, Listen to what Troyman said. Bendix CT pads are used by taxi drivers who arent afraid to open their wallets. The ones that are use Prime Pads. I've got a set of RDA dimpled and slotted rotors on my AU and included in the purchase was a set of pads. I found they have a bit more bite than normal rotors and defnitely don't fade as much. I have noticed some light shudder going down some pprolonged downhil runs but I am yet to really push them as I'm worried I might warp them big time. |
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| TROYMAN |
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this might help
{USERNAME} wrote: Hi guys,
What you are seeing here is friction material deposits. The dark spots on the back of the slots you can see is excessive pad material buildup which causes a high spot on the rotor. As the pad passes over this high spot it will 'pickup' and release in the low just past the buildup. This will create a 'grab-release' type effect, hence the shudder. Friction material deposits are most common in cars that run either a slotted or cross-drilled rotor and a general everyday pad such as the GCT that has been fitted here. To combat this we suggest running a high spec pad ie. a Bendix Heavy Duty (HD) or equivalent in another manufactuer of pad. The compound of the friction material is slightly different and uses less bonding resin to hold the compound together. Now as for what to do with these rotors, just changing pads won't solve it. Depending on how close to min. thickness the rotors are you may be able to have them lightly skimmed to clean up the friction faces. See here for more info. http://www.dba.com.au/system/files/priv ... sits_0.pdf Cheers, DBASteve |
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