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| cjh |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Ordered in some a new clutch kit from Hightek Brakes and they should arrive at the end of the week.
Being the long weekend I am going to change the clutch over. Question...would any mechanic be able to machine the fly wheel? or do I need to bring it to a specialist? phong =P~ A machine shop can do it, if they have a proper machine to do it. They actually grind the flywheel. Machining them in a lathe isn't very easy, especially if there's hard spots. Tends to make the tool jump over them.
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| MooseMan |
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I took it to lalor clutch and brakes and they did a good job on mine phong.
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I took it to lalor clutch and brakes and they did a good job on mine phong.
Hey Rod, thanks for information on that Lalor Clutch and Brakes dude, did an excellent job an in about 2 hours which was pretty good too. Well over 2 days, punktured and I removed the transmission once again to get the flywheel machined, new Xtreme clutch assembly and new release bearing put in. After having heaps of trouble removing the old spigot bearing (mind you...only a week old, found the plastic retainer broke off), we decided to drill the thing out and it came out alright...lol nothing wrong with the back of the crank which was a relief. Anyways, car is running well now. No more bogging/shuddering anymore. Clutch pedal seems surprisingly softer then the standard clutch  ...so that got me confused considering the new clutch was meant to give 40% more clamp.
If anyone can tell us (and those who might be curious) of how to remove the spigot bearing in a safer and more professional manner, please do, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to everyone that has helped. Cheers. phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| Paulmac |
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Phongus,
Pity you didn't live closer, I could have lent you the correct tool, takes about 1-2min to remove one. I've heard of many desperate measures taken to remove E series spigot bush and bearing assy, some I've tried and have no idea how [or if] they really worked for others. The only safe, reliable, non destructive way I know is with a spigot bearing puller. They're not cheap, about $70 trade price from Bursons ATM but it's high grade steel. Cheaper ones will just break with the strain. First use it paid for itself in time saved and no risk of damage, with every other use it gets cheaper. LOL A hire place with a range of auto tools would be the go, if you could find one, I couldn't so I bought one and now 'hire' it out to mates for a few coldies. Bonus! I'm very glad that you got it sorted out and hope it goes smoothly for a long while. Cheers, Paul
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| phongus |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Phongus,
Pity you didn't live closer, I could have lent you the correct tool, takes about 1-2min to remove one. I've heard of many desperate measures taken to remove E series spigot bush and bearing assy, some I've tried and have no idea how [or if] they really worked for others. The only safe, reliable, non destructive way I know is with a spigot bearing puller. They're not cheap, about $70 trade price from Bursons ATM but it's high grade steel. Cheaper ones will just break with the strain. First use it paid for itself in time saved and no risk of damage, with every other use it gets cheaper. LOL A hire place with a range of auto tools would be the go, if you could find one, I couldn't so I bought one and now 'hire' it out to mates for a few coldies. Bonus! I'm very glad that you got it sorted out and hope it goes smoothly for a long while. Cheers, Paul Thanks Paul. My mates mate who works at Ford said they use grease to remove the spigot bearing. He said they keep shoving grease in the hole until it is full and using your thumb to jam it in the pressure will push the spigot out...*shrugs*. Maybe I should invest in a puller...that way it makes life just that little bit easier over time. Thanks phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| snap0964 |
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The factory spigot bearing will dry out over time, probably because the needle rollers are exposed. The new ones I've gotten from autopro are a parallel sealed bearing, which IMO are better.
I helped the_scotsman do his factory one a while ago - used a cold chisel to chip the bearing housing away, then split it eventually. This is an absolute last option, and you need to be careful not to damage the crankshaft rear - it does work, but it is time consuming, mainly due to the 'be careful' factor. The hydraulic method is just fill the cavity with grease, and use a round drift with a close fit to the spigot and a hammer to knock the drift in against the grease pressure - the grease forces the bearing out. I've used this to success on some old holden red motor spigots, but I'm not sure if you can get a decent fit with the ford spigot having it's rollers protruding - but the engine guys on here say they've had success with the ford spigot. Next one I do, I'll borrow a modified slide hammer setup. 
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Paulmac |
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Hey Phongus,
That's one of the the methods I've tried and as far as I'm concerned it's an urban legend, NFW anything short of dynamite was going to move that bush and bearing assy. I was using a pressure grease gun too, the puller got it in less than 2 mins. from package to out. When I questioned my Ford mechanic mate on how many 'grease extractions' he had done, he said he always used a puller and simply repeated what others said so he didn't look inept! I have other bearing pullers but they are too big for the E-series hole, a bit frustrating. Greg now has his own workshop and my spigot tool sits on his wall [on loan], in return he lends me any 'special' tool I may not have here. Next time either of us does a manual we're going to give the grease another shot, just for laughs, but we'll have the puller ready! LOL Cheers mate, Paul
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
{USERNAME} wrote: Clutch pedal seems surprisingly softer then the standard clutch
...so that got me confused considering the new clutch was meant to give 40% more clamp.Give it a couple weeks and the pedal will firm up alot. My standard EA clutch setup was replaced couple weeks ago with the later model flywheel and HD Valeo clutch. Felt really good to drive for a few days, pedal was very light, but now feels like a heavy duty clutch..... and has also recently developed a shudder when taking off for the first couple minutes of a cold start every morning which is f**k me off |
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| Damo |
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the packing grease into spigot works well. Also wet tissue paper works too. Use a socket extension or something just smaller than the hole and wrap it with electrical tape so it's a snug fit, then smash it in with a hammer. Repeat this a few times and it will come out a sinch.
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| sexyr6 |
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the grease method is a very effective way of removing the spigot, i have used it several time on various models.
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| Paulmac |
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Did you guys also remove the bush with the grease method? I had to fit an auto box to an engine from a manual and that bush was not going to move.
I'm glad I bought the puller, too easy, and I wasn't going to modify my slide hammer or use the cold chisel as Snap had to, that really is emergency stuff. LOL So far it's only on E-series bushes that I've found it difficult. Cheers, Paul
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| phongus |
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I see there are many different methods. Will try the grease method again whenever I have to pull the spigot out...hopefully not for a while.
Hopefully I don't develop a shuddering in my clutch assembly. I don't mind if it gets a bit harder over time, at the current rate, it is way softer then previous clutch. phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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