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| phongus |
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Hey everyone. As some of you might know. I have just put another motor into my car. Engine revs fine but when you let go of the accelerator it hangs there for a bit...that is just one of the problems that needs attention.
My main concern however is that when I took it for a test drive the clutch felt different. I did notice that the clutch was worn, which I thought would mean that it will slip when I drive, but it didn't. Instead it sort of doesn't release and just bogs. I have to ride the clutch and have the revs up to get the car moving without bogging. When changing into second, the revs drop to about 1500RPM from 2500RPM and I release the clutch pedal, the clutch grabs and keeps the car moving but bogs down until it hits about 2200RPM and from there the engine revs smoothly and car drives fine. It happens throughout all gears but noticeably less going to 4th and 5th. I was thinking clutch cable stuck or something. Going to lubricate it a bit more later on when the weather is better. What other things could cause this? All help appreciated... phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| fiftyone |
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ecu could still be learning or something? isc may have got a bit of s**t (oil, grease?) in it? throttle cable might need a bit of oil, could be sticking.
as for the clutch, the first thing i would think is the clutch might be shagged a bit. but also the cable could be a bit bent or something and making a bit of friction in the line
_________________ ** For Sale ** http://www.fordmods.com/ford-parts-for-sale-f17/assorted-e-series-parts-t124697.html |
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| phongus |
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fiftyone wrote: ecu could still be learning or something? isc may have got a bit of s**t (oil, grease?) in it? throttle cable might need a bit of oil, could be sticking.
as for the clutch, the first thing i would think is the clutch might be shagged a bit. but also the cable could be a bit bent or something and making a bit of friction in the line I am going to pull the clutch cable out tomorrow and lube it up and make sure it is not snagging on anything. Though I might just leave the clutch stuff for later on once i get a new one. cheers phong =P~
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| MooseMan |
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Hey phong. I had the same problem with my EL when I put the XR motor in it. Disconnect the ISC and then take it for a drive and see if its better. The car should rev alot more freely. I never got around to cleaning the ISC before I got rid of the EL so not sure how to fix it. Mine ran fine with it disconnected though. Its easy to just unplug it.
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| phongus |
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MooseMan wrote: Hey phong. I had the same problem with my EL when I put the XR motor in it. Disconnect the ISC and then take it for a drive and see if its better. The car should rev alot more freely. I never got around to cleaning the ISC before I got rid of the EL so not sure how to fix it. Mine ran fine with it disconnected though. Its easy to just unplug it.
that might fix the problem temporarily. I'll give it a shot and see how it goes. Not sure if that would help with the bogging down though would it? phong =P~
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| phongus |
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Hey rod, I tried the ISC thing...but when I started her she just coughed and died. So I plugged her back in and I could start it. I might get the ISC swapped over and see what happens.
Went for a drive last night and this morning and figured that it isn't the clutch cable. I believe me not machining the fly is kind of causing the problem. It also shudders when I accelerate from 80km/h to 100km/h in 5th with the clutch pedal untouched so I think the clutch cable is out of the question? phong =P~
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| Paulmac |
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Heya Phongus,
What condition is your pressure plate and release bearing in? Paul
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| phongus |
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Paulmac wrote: Heya Phongus,
What condition is your pressure plate and release bearing in? Paul Pressure plate seemed in good condition...slightly worn which I thought would mean it would slip, though release bearing probably has seen better days. It shudders when you accelerate from about 1500. Usually only under load...might need to replace the whole clutch assembly, get fly wheel machined and new release bearing? phong =P~
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| Paulmac |
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Phongus,
The machining may not be critical but would be advisable, the rest sounds absolutely essential. A tired pressure plate is often overlooked as the cause of shudders and killing thrust bearings and driven [clutch] plates, not just slipping. Binding pressure plates also aren't good for clutch cables either. While it may not be causing your problems, double check your spigot bearing and rear main seal while you've got the box off. You don't want them to seize or leak after you've put everything back together. We all seem to learn the hard way that replacing all of the above, unless known to be good, when changing engines or 'boxes is cheaper in the long run, I sure did, so I try not to cut corners now. LOL I'd be surprised if there's any real problem with your engine if it's revving fine in neutral, so hopefully sorting your clutch assembly out will end it. Cheers, Paul
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| phongus |
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Paulmac wrote: Phongus,
The machining may not be critical but would be advisable, the rest sounds absolutely essential. A tired pressure plate is often overlooked as the cause of shudders and killing thrust bearings and driven [clutch] plates, not just slipping. Binding pressure plates also aren't good for clutch cables either. While it may not be causing your problems, double check your spigot bearing and rear main seal while you've got the box off. You don't want them to seize or leak after you've put everything back together. We all seem to learn the hard way that replacing all of the above, unless known to be good, when changing engines or 'boxes is cheaper in the long run, I sure did, so I try not to cut corners now. LOL I'd be surprised if there's any real problem with your engine if it's revving fine in neutral, so hopefully sorting your clutch assembly out will end it. Cheers, Paul Thanks heaps Paul. I'll be getting a new clutch assembly soon and probably get the little things replaced while it is out. Nothing has been leaking as far as I know and the spigot bearing is brand new so hopefully that won't crack on me. Will keep all the things in mind when I pull it out again...*shudders* I'll keep you posted. phong =P~
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| Damo |
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Had the same problems on my EF, unplugged ISC fixed it FTW!!1!
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| Paulmac |
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Damo, phongus tried that about 6 posts in and it didn't solve the problem.
Paul
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| MooseMan |
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Paulmac wrote: Damo, phongus tried that about 6 posts in and it didn't solve the problem.
Paul Technically he didnt try it because his car wouldn't run with it disconnected. Phong, you have to adjust the idle screw again once you have disconnected the ISC.
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| phongus |
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MooseMan wrote: Paulmac wrote: Damo, phongus tried that about 6 posts in and it didn't solve the problem. Paul Technically he didnt try it because his car wouldn't run with it disconnected. Phong, you have to adjust the idle screw again once you have disconnected the ISC. Car doesn't idle when cold with ISC off...but once warm and ISC disconnected it works fine. But I since changed the TB over and ISC and idle is fine now. Just still shuddering so changing worn bits is the next step. thanks for all your help phong =P~
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| phongus |
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Ordered in some a new clutch kit from Hightek Brakes and they should arrive at the end of the week.
Being the long weekend I am going to change the clutch over. Question...would any mechanic be able to machine the fly wheel? or do I need to bring it to a specialist? phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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