Hi all..

Quick question.... I have discoved that i have a leak between the brake booster and where the master cylinder bolts on...
its on an EL XR8.
Is this common? easy fix???
I havent pulled it apart yet as i dont know whats wrong and wanted to have the parts ready when i did... Is there some kind of gasket between them that i may be able to replace and get away with.. without having to change the whole booster and master brake cylinder???
And any idea where and how much i may be looking at to fix this up?

Any help appreciated..
Ben

I cant say its common. I've got an EL XR8 and havent had that problem.

I'll type out what it says in the Ford Factory manual.

Removal.
1. Remove the brake tubes from the outlet ports of the master cylinder.
Disconnect the plug from the warning light switch.
Disconnect the cruise control tube from the master cylinder (if fitted).
2. Remove the two nuts attaching the master cylinder to the brake booster assembly.
3. Slide the master cylinder forward and upward from the vehicle.

Installation.
1. Position the master cylinder assembly over the booster push rod and onto the two studs on the booster assembly.
2. Install the attaching nuts and torque to specification (30nm)
3. Install the front and rear brake tubes to the master cylinder outlet fittings. Install the cruise control tube (if fitted). Connect the warning light switch.
4. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid to the level marked on the side of the dual reservoirs. Use the motorcraft approved brake fluid. Do not mix low temperature brake fluids with the specified fluids for the disc brake system.
5. Bleed the brakes. While bleeding the brakes check the brake light failure warning light operates and resets.
6. Operate the brake system several times and check for leaks.


There is also a note that says it uses special rubber components. The master cylinder should only be repaired using the genuine kits.

Hope that helps.

this is a must

It'll probably be the o ring on the rearmost piston (primary IIRC) leaking. You could dismantle the master cylinder and replace the orings/seals/cups etc, but it may be cheaper to get a reco'ed master cylinder. This would be the better option particularly if you find the bore is worn or damaged, and if you're not sure what you're doing.
I wouldn't just replace the o ring and slam it all back together.

As for the brake fail light, after you've bled the brakes, you need to unscrew the switch (which sits underneath), cycle the brakes and put it back in. This allows the spool to centralise.

thanks guys... appreciate the help..

Ben