cheers for the suggestions XTT909 ill have a bit more of a look into it but i still think i might run out of length on the wheel studs?
Will still have to nut it out and see if it can work for me, but they simply need a heap of clearance which the dish and spokes on the rims just isnt giving.
I looked into what other people put on when using 6 and 4 pots and i noticed the offset is always heaps further out.
I did find some other wheels which are very similar and will just fit and the dish on that is about half of whats on these ones..... but theyre not available for another 5 weeks so will see how we go.



Whats the point in down grading from 6 to 4 when the 4's dont fit anyway?

mate im looking at bolting brembos to my wagon as well.. hard to do? I cant find anyone that has done this.

From what i can gather is you need brembo calipers, front and rear, which come with a bracket to suit mounting, brake lines and rotars to suit. correct? Would you happen to have a pictures of how you did the rear end?

Did you use typhoon or tornado setup, because from my understanding, you need the tornado rear setup??

Yeah mate with the fronts when you buy the caliper and brackets new together you'll find that the right caliper will have to go on the left side and the left on the right as AUs mount over the front of the rotor where as the B series mount over the rear of the rotor with the front brakes.
It all bolts in sweet just the right has a big "L" sticker on the caliper and left side has a big "R"
As for the brake lines its just the hose that goes between the caliper and the connecting point on the inner body of the wheel well that needs to be changed, i reckon i could have got away with the B series brake line it come with but was just a bit shorter than the au one and wasnt able to clip it onto the side of the shock.

I still havent decided on the rears as in my opinion with this wagon the brake bias is not really worth spending the money on the brembos for the back.
Im prob going to just go with a PBR upgrade on the rear and make sure the rear calipers are red to match but if i was to put brembos on the back id look into getting a brake bias set up as i just dont think the rears would work hard enough??
In saying that though the last thing you want is the rear end locking up and overtaking the front of the car, but to be honest i just dont know how well the brembos would work on the back of a non B series car especially a wagon and if its worth the extra money??
I havnt looked into the brembo rears fitment as yet but cos the wagon and ute in the au are very similar with the leaf springs ect it would make sense to use the tornado brackets if theres a difference, im pretty sure the caliper would be identical, but again you prob know more than me with the rears at this stage.
Brent

well in one way lucky for me lol. I have a ba xt wagon. So the front calipers will bolt on the right way. But i can still buy them second hand with the brackets included. If you dont mind me asking, how much did it cost you new?

tornados dont get a brembo rear, it's the stock single piston caliper painted red no matter whether 6 or 4 piston fronts were optioned.
i doubt the sedan brackets will fit.

As you saw with mine the other day, the 6-pot callipers are bigger again then the 4's.

Unfortunately it's simple with the 6-pots. You need wheels with clearance, and this means (almost always) no dish.

They were new off ebay a bloke had a few sets a while back how he got them i dont know? but they were new rotors, calipers pads and lines, i paid bang on 2 grand which i thought was pretty good at the time going off a set of 4 pots for sale at ferntree gully auto salvage.
Yeah you will be sweet then if your in a BA already, but any idea on what to do now with the rears if the tornado's dont come with 4's??? where theres a will theres a way and there will definately be a way to get em on there just the question.... how?

Last edited by WGN-485 on Wed Sep 30, 2009 1:10 am, edited 1 time in total.

I think i just found my answer.....$$$$$$$ ouch????

For those wondering why the FPV Utes don't get rear Brembo's apparently it's due to pad knock off. The opposing piston set up of the Brembo callipers (instead of the sliding carriage set up of the PBRs) doesn't like being on the live rear end.



And as for the brake bias. On my GT-P, I've only just replaced the rear pads (Brembo 4-pots), and the discs are still ~70%. The fronts have are on their third set of pads, and second set of discs.

The front callipers are also heat discoloured, while the backs are fine.*

There's certainly not much rear bias in the factory set up.

*note: It's only ever been a problem on a circuit and even then only Oran Park. Regular street only use they'll last ages.

ok cool. I want new brakes at the front because 1. I tow a car and the brakes are ok, but i want better, and 2. i push my wagon sometimes, and i have been buying turbo parts to make it equal to an xr6T.

Ok now i have to find 6 pot brembos cheap lol. If i find a solution for the rear champ, ill let you know. All i can gather, pbr rear brake upgrade.

Cheers for the info yeah i just cant justify that sort of money for looks i reckon, especially on a wagon rear end like you said, as i dont reckon they get used half as much as even the sedans.
The drilled and slotted rotors i put on it 4-5 months ago are still almost new looking!
Just wondering if you are running the soft compound pads that are still chewing out the rotors?
The dandenongs are 2 mins from home so they will often get a bit of a work out up around there But still not worth the money, and wont be looking forward to the day if i ever have to change the front rotors people seem to chew through them way too quick for my liking!

The turbo setup sound cool, like you said we tow a boat over summer a fair bit which always helps to have some comfort under your right foot.
Will start looking into the PBR setup might speak to FTG auto see how much they sell em for and if they have any in, otherwise a price from them is a starting point they seem to get that kinda stuff through quite often.

I track mine (a lot), and the factory set up lasted ~60,000k. I then changed to street/race pads, the first set lasted about 35,000k. The factory rotors lasted ~75,000k. And I'm running DBA 5000 two piece rotors on the front (and have a set of DBA 4000 for the back, still not needed).

People who don't do track work, report over 100,000k from the factory pads/rotors.

FWIW, the DBA5000 front rotors are about half the price of the Brembo replacements from Ford, and still significantly cheaper than Brembo replacements from the importer. All while being better. And once you buy the DBA 5000, all you need to replace is the rotor surface, and hats are reusable, so they're cheaper the second/third/etc time). They're also lighter, the new 5000's were still lighter than the worn to minimum thickness Brembo rotors. And as we know unsprung weight = bad.

I'm running Ferrodo DS2500 pads (street/race compound), they're a little soft when cold, but I haven't made them fade on track. Next step up is the DS3000 a full race compound, I was warned against these, as they really don't work until warmed up.

after speaking to Chris at FTG, he reckons the best system i can get is the pbr system. I will state the reasons why.

1. Brembo fronts alone cost anywhere between 2000 to 3500 new/used
2. The pbr kit only costs 1400 and covers both front and rear (new) which also can be found on territories and bf xr8 falcons. They have slotted discs, and the rear is ventelated unlike the solid discs we have on our cars
3. brake pads for brembos cost near 500 bucks where as the pbr set is the same as your average brake pads.
4. The smallest wheel you need is 17'', and dont need a crazy rim for clearance issues with the brembo.

The only question i have is, has anyone done this and what is their review of the brake system, including the bf xr8 braking performance...

The only reasons you have noted are based on money, not performance. If you're just worried about money - keep the factory setup and get some good pads