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| misk_one |
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66 coupe wrote: google btr manual controller im sure we could make something similar if not better for alot less. its good that its there, but a couple of switches and relay is alot cheaper than $200
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| Shifteh |
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this could easily be done with a pic controller, might go to jaycar today and grab one and start fiddeling
_________________ Crank Assembly balanced, HV oil pump, ACL Trimetal bearings, "1 extra oil clearance taking to around 0.0650-0.0700 on mains and big ends, Moly rings,, Xr6 Cam, POD ( Possibly oversize injectors), Block, Head, Timing cover, belt idler, Alternator,painted in ford light blue |
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| misk_one |
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well even through a crude setup it can be done.
all i did was touch a 12v signal to the wires as i drove and it shifted. it did make a few funny noises - but i think disabling S3-S5 would fix this. if you could create a PIC controller that had 4 programs that could be moved between sequentially then thats all thats needed. ie. program one would be 12v to S1 and S2, program 2 would be 12v to S2, program 3 would be no power sent to either solenoid, and program 4 is 12v sent to S1. if you could make the trigger to go between programs in either direction a 12v signal, then we could use any momentary style button, ie. the outer most buttons of the cruise control on a EB fairmont steering wheel, or anything really, could be alot of choices. if i had the money to buy the hardware and PIC controller id look into the code and do it myself, but i just dont have the time or money atm.
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| rainoffire |
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Definately good to see some people messing around with this, its always been the one area that holden auto's are better than ford ones.
As a side note, has anyone ever used one of the shiftkits.com manualising kits? I have been on and off that website for ages and never noticed it before!! did a google search and got nothing, it be dead keen to try it thought!! |
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| Shifteh |
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i would much rather do it myself, than by one of the kits pureley because its fun lol
_________________ Crank Assembly balanced, HV oil pump, ACL Trimetal bearings, "1 extra oil clearance taking to around 0.0650-0.0700 on mains and big ends, Moly rings,, Xr6 Cam, POD ( Possibly oversize injectors), Block, Head, Timing cover, belt idler, Alternator,painted in ford light blue |
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| misk_one |
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if its anything like the shiftkits they sell, its $5 worth of resistors and a controller of some sort in a box.
in theory, this could be controlled using a rotary style switch. and say you want lockup on the converter in 4th (or 3rd) for cruising, you just send a signal its way also. or have a separate switch that would allow control over the lockup whenever you want. having an on/off switch between the ECU and the solenoids would only need to break the circuit (ie disable S1/S2 in the eyes of the ecu) and then control would done through the rotary switch. i know my diagram isn't drawn correctly for the switch to work in that way, but im sure you can figure out how it can be done. 
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| rainoffire |
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I'm with you on the DIY part of it, did the kit for my ED myself. I was mainly curious as to whether it was just a simple resistor trick in their manualised one or theres a bit more to it than that. I'm guessing no one has wanted to fork out to find out, haha fair enough really
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| skidder |
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Definately not just a resistor trick.
If you want a manualised on/off kit look to DPDT switches. Depending upon the system you end up going with may be able to find one with enough poles (is this the right term?) that can pass enough current. From memory I found some up to about 10dpdt but they didn't support enough current unless I wanted to run amplifiers before the solenoids.
_________________ EVL098 wrote: Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con. Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays? AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone. |
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| misk_one |
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could just use a switch such as this:
http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID ... BCATID=410 when i was at jaycar i found one with 4 positions. ill get the multimeter out tomorrow and see how much current is being sent to the solenoids, but i think it should be ok.
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| skidder |
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Are you talking about to change the gears?
I was meaning that once you figure out your manualised circuit if you want to make it an on/off system you could use a DPDT switch to switch between your manualised circuit and your standard circuit. Goodluck with it!
_________________ EVL098 wrote: Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con. Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays? AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone. |
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| misk_one |
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ahh sorry, yeah, i've already got the switch hooked up to choose between standard or manual.
i forgot to add it into the paint diagram lol. im only aiming for a very simple setup, nothing flash. so the dpdt switch and a rotary switch is pretty much all thats needed for my first setup, changing gears will just be twisting a knob for the time being but theres obviously many ways of obtaining the same goal.
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| 66 coupe |
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Quote: your solenoid logic is not quite correct, also what happens when your rotary switch is in the 2nd position - it will be the same as in the 4th position. You also need solenoid control in reverse as the manual valve works in conjunction with the solenoids to apply both the rear band and c3 clutch |
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| misk_one |
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sorry, 4th is S1 only.
i have driven the car with the S1/S2 solenoids disconnected and park, reverse and neutral all operate as per normal, the car just drove down the road in 3rd as per the solenoid configurations. im more than happy to be proven wrong, but what the ECU is doing when its changing gears is doing things like controlling line pressure and softening the gear change through the control of the S3-S6 solenoids preparing to change gears to ensure a smooth and soft gear change. we know these can be disabled to have a shiftkit style shift, so there is no reason that controlling S1 and S2 manually shouldnt work. it will be a harsh gear change, but i know i dont care, skating second down the road was good fun with just the normal shift kit, with the manual style setup it should be quite nice indeed 
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| misk_one |
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so i got this to work using a rotary switch and 2 relays (relays only needed for first gear).
dodgey video and obviously not 100% together, but you get the idea. this is with all other solenoids connected and i have a switch to changed between the 'manual' mode and normal shifter. ill change the switch or how its operated in the future, but for now, it works lol. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osi2jrHa44I
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| misk_one |
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no one else keen on looking into this?
can do things like control lockup through an on/off switch, real hard firm fast shifts by disabling S3-S6 as all they do is soften shifts...
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