I read about code that you could load onto the MS2 to turn it into a trans controller. From memory it worked with GM autos. MS2 will be able to control the auto's and engine at the same time when the GPIO board is released (adding 25 IO lines to the MS2). This might be a good way to go for some people (replace the EEC and trans computer in one shot)

Reprogramming an MS2 for trans control wouldnt be hard, its very easy to program. It is overkill though.

The MSII could almost be used on the Fords without a GPIO baord, controlling the automatic.

atleast 7 spare ports, not to mention others not actually used, would be enough to control our autos.

If I had an auto, Id look into it...but I don't. That said, if you know the order of operation, or the sequence of engagement and so forth, code can be chucked together farly quickly, just nothing to test it on.


Cheers

The BTR 4 speed manual posted up by data_mine not long ago, has nearly all that info in it.

This might have been posted already (hope so anyway - cant be stuffed looking over 5 pages), but this is how the gears get changed:



So you just need a board with enough IO to do ^^^ that. Sounds like a good weekend project

amen to reverse engineering ECU's beign hard. I'm been struggling my way through EEC's for many months and have little to show for it. But I'm getting through it.

I come from an extensive IT background including programming, but ASM on an x86 is NOT the same as ASM on a 8091 (as used by EECs).

its not even an 8091, its more extensive than that, 8061. The thing is they made the EEC so no one could crack it..

But the TCM who gives a s**t if someone finds out how to shift.. Well I haven't got a TCM or the time at the moment to try anything about it, just throwing ideas.



Cheers

If I was doing this as a project this is the approach i would take.

1. Get a 4 speed auto falcon (I dont have one), tap into the solenoid wires and measure the timing of the events for reference. This is pretty easy - I cant tell anyone with a laptop how to go about doing it.

2. Find a development board with enough IO to cover everything the factory board does, and a few more so that down the line you can add in car tuning etc. I have a handful of Digilent 2ft's which will do the job (168 I/O lines, Xilinx Spartan 2E 300 FPGA - cost about $90US each) but probably arent the best in this case as not many people around here will be able to code in VHDL/Verilog.

3. Implement 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-3, 3-2, and 2-1 shifts using the timings measuerd in 1. Forget about VSS, temp, rpm, tps etc for now.

4. Connect 2 buttons for upshift and downshift.

5. Install in car and debug.

When you have that working, you can get the other stuff working, code up a LUT for automatic shift patterns and play around all you like.

Wow xilinx spartan2e, I though my suggestion of a 68332 was overkill, hahah

VHDL is no problem here, but I think thats massive overkill considering you could almost get this done with a PIC chip.

Your plan however is EXACTLY what I would do.

Anyone got the time and patience to start now....if you do I'll give a hand to debug code etc. Please for the love of god do it in either C C++ or basic. At least the code will be readable by the majority of hobbyists, and if its left open source then it can be expanded by other users. I'm sorry that I can't offer more than advice and minor help but I don't have the time atm.

Yep, nothing like overkill - although spartan chips are probably cheaper than microprocessor's, but people with software backgrounds can have a lot of trouble programming them.

Going the other way, you could drive the whole thing from a laptop parallel port and do it all from software. Its really not important how it is done to begin with, just that it gets done. Once you have a prototype working and know what to do it is trivial to build a production model

And yeah, C/C++ is the way to go for sure.

Dont know why but im tempted to give this project a kick start and build a board to do it . I can bench test some of it using my old btr but then someone else is going to have to take over and fit it to a car and tune it.

lol

start building i can test in the darg car EL im doing and not to mention i have a few other cars

can perform any testing and tuning u want

testing is not a issue have engine dyno and chassis dyno faciliies , can make a engine and transmission jig up to couple to a dyno and laod the tranny up and pereferm all the testing u want wyth out getting speeding fines.

but my thoughts would be to make the early EA and all the V8 equipped cars transmission controllers via a laptop programmable rather than making a new control box

cheers

I pulled the valve body out of my old BTR this arvo, set it up at my computer desk (house stinks of ATF now). Hooked S1 though S5 up to a I/O board connected to the computer and programmed up a little app in C to shift according to the table I posted above.



I planned on spending some time working out PW vs current for S5 but both my multimeters had flat batteries so S5 is currently on/off only. Going to have to put a bit of work into s5 control and find out how much feedback its going to need for accurate movements. 1st through 4th shifts and back sequences work although the timing will be way off (just programmed a constant 200ms delay between initial and ending state for the shifts).

short and uninteresting vid of it working HERE

I got someone to help me get it into a car down here so when I get the chance ill head down the wreckers, pick up a factory TCU and use the plug to make an adaptor for the laptop.

hi

LOL " (house stinks of ATF now). " if u get a chance wash the valve body with petrol and leave out side the house for a few days this will eliminate the burnt transmission oil smell and the most of the petrol will evaporate

i wish i had ur back ground , some of my ideas that i have wouldn't hesitate to start some of the electronic projects but this would be a whole new ball game for me

The bug has bitten i see stockstandard , its nice to see you having a go at it cause i think u will be on a winner here.

some of the crappy methods i have seen transmission specialist trying to control the BTr transmission is amazing and the phenomenal amount of money there charging , i thought cars sales men where crooks.

I looked at the Vid clip excellent work stockstandard
keep up the good work , would love to mimic what your doing at ur place just for learning exercise purposes.


cheers

Ive just gone through the 135 page manual for these gearboxes because to be honest its probably the part of a car I know the least about. To summarize what was in there -

As previously posted, S1 and S2 control the gear selection. I was happy to read that the position of these in each gear was the same as what I had worked out, being:

1st gear: Both S1 and S2 on
2nd gear: S2 on
3rd gear: both off
4th gear: S1 on

S3 controls the application of the clutch C1, and S4 controls the front band. Both of these need to be applied in a controlled way for smooth shifting, which is done by S5 controlling the pressure delivered to them while their solenoids are open. The more current delivered to S5, the lower the line pressure. Im a little confused as to how these are used at the moment. In the manual it says the front band needs to be applied while in 2nd and 4th gears, and the C1 clutch applied in 3rd and 4th. But the table above indicates that S3 solenoid (controls C1) is on while shifting into 3rd and the S4 (controlling the forward band) is on during all shifts. Logging what the factory TCU does will tell us how to control it, but I suspect that the solenoids are used for the application of the clutch/band, which then may or may not be held in place by hydraulic pressure depending on the gear.

The remaining clutches C2, C3 and C4 and the rear band (none of which we need to control) receive line pressure regulated by the primary regulator valve. Under light throttle, the line pressure is reduced by switching on S6. Under heavy throttle, S6 is switched off, increasing the line pressure so the gearbox handles the extra torque

Finally, S7 locks the torque converter. On pre-ef 4 speeds, the lockup occurs when in 4th under "suitable driving conditions", which I read as cruise or light throttle. On EF's and onwards and when the gearbox is in economy, lockup occurs late in the 3rd gear and partially disengages for the 3rd to 4th shift. In all gearboxes, the S5 solenoid is again used to provide smooth engagement.

Oh, and reverse requires both S1 and S2 to be on. C3 is locked by hydraulic pressure to reverse the rotation of the output shaft.

I believe the ECU also expects a signal from the TCU. Looks like this signal is 12V to send ECU into LHM, 0V to report a thermistor error, or a 10,20,30 or 40Hz wave indicating the temperature of the gearbox which is used to adjust idle speed.

well done stockstandard

seems u have started some serious work here


cheers

how r things going???