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| sexyr6 |
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fiend wrote: What is that book called, and where can I flog one from? Genuine Ford EF/EL workshop manuel (part number WM39) picked it up on ebay for $100 
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| Shortshift |
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Marvellous! You guys deserve an elephant stamp.
I also have something that looks like Part 7. Does that attach to the block, K-frame or bellhousing? The bend before the bellhousing looks sharp too.
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| snap0964 |
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fiend wrote: Anyways - Sounds like EF / EL cables are a little longer EB/ED cables are actually 4-5" longer than the EF/EL cables.sexyr6 wrote: Genuine Ford EF/EL workshop manuel (part number WM39) picked it up on ebay for $100 Yep, all 3 volumes are very comprehensive.Shortshift wrote: I also have something that looks like Part 7. Does that attach to the block, K-frame or bellhousing? The bend before the bellhousing looks sharp too. No, part 7 fits on the grommet you'll notice on the cable, and this mounts to the steering rack halfway along with a screw.That bracket you showed earlier bolts to the bellhousing bolt you see above the dustcover in the pic (As Cjh has explained). The cable sits in it so it enters the bellhousing straight - so yes, that bend is too sharp.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| fiend |
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BUGGER ME... I should have bought ED cables then... I had it on good authority that the EF ones were longer.
 BENJ I'd also like to point out that my cable is actually cable tied so that the path to the bellhousing is pretty spot on.... Spare parts bin or not, I may just stick it on at some point. It was late in the day on the original install and all that! |
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Thanks for the info snap. The wreckers, I bought the manual conversion from, just handed me a box of parts with the gearbox & alloy tailshaft (which was the wrong length).
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| snap0964 |
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Yep NP.
That's what generally happens, you get a box of crap, and have to sort it all out and figure out where it all goes.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| cjh |
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Shortshift wrote: Marvellous! You guys deserve an elephant stamp. I also have something that looks like Part 7. Does that attach to the block, K-frame or bellhousing? The bend before the bellhousing looks sharp too. See where the cable goes near the extractors, it will get fried. I put the cable through in front of the engine mount, then under the sump and back up to the bellhousing. Too many sharp bends when put near the rack.
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CJH - I tried the cable in front of the engine mount but it ended up making an additional bend. I fitted the first bracket as you mentioned and ran the cable in front of the steering rack. There's nowhere to screw the other clip on the steering rack (its an EA), so I didn't worry about it.
One other thing I'm stuck with. If I fit the spring to clutch pedal, where's the other end supposed to go? I tried using it to pull the clutch pedal away from the floor, but then the clutch pedal sticks out past the brake pedal by a few inches. Seems like there needs to be an adjustable stop attached to the pedal box if I do it that way. 
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| snap0964 |
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The spring is designed to put tension on the pedal to the floor, so this puts slight tension on the cable too - the throwout bearing in these models keeps light contact with the pressure plate.
There should be an anchor point on the floor for the spring, adjacent to where it mounts to the pedal.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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snap0964 wrote: The spring is designed to put tension on the pedal to the floor, so this puts slight tension on the cable too Well that makes sense now. I gather it's because the cable adjusting nut needs to be forced against the firewall, and the end of the cable needs to be in tension as well. I couldn't find an anchor point on the floor, so I'll use a bit of MS angle and screw it to the anodised plate on the floor (that the steering column goes through).
_________________ AU2 XR8 with Raptor VL, ported Yella Terra GT40P heads, Scorpion 1.6 RRs, XE264HR-14 Comp Cam, ceramic coated Hurricane Headers, 60lb injectors, Walbro 255, 200cfi cats, 3" exhaust & Snow Performance water methanol injection |
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
there will be something there. On my EF its a short flat strip of steel welded to the floor/firewall with a raised loop to hook the spring onto
you might have to peel away some carpet to find it |
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| snap0964 |
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Bursons and Autopro still sell EB/ED & EF/EL cables from Flexible drive agencies.
http://www.fdrive.com.au/products/02/searchcables.php
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| 67RCE |
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snap0964 wrote: The spring is designed to put tension on the pedal to the floor, so this puts slight tension on the cable too - the throwout bearing in these models keeps light contact with the pressure plate. There should be an anchor point on the floor for the spring, adjacent to where it mounts to the pedal. Is the AU the same? Could explain why i have a rattle from the throw out bearing he the spring isn't there
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
mine had a rattle too in neutral idling with clutch out, and had the spring on there & new bearings
noise would go away if you put slight pressure on the pedal, which led me to think a stronger spring mightve helped |
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| cjh |
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FordFairmont wrote: mine had a rattle too in neutral idling with clutch out, and had the spring on there & new bearings noise would go away if you put slight pressure on the pedal, which led me to think a stronger spring mightve helped That rattle could be the precurser to a failed/warped diaphram spring fingers. 
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