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northerlythechamp |
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i am having a bit of trouble deciding if i need to replace my clutch.
BenJ helped me replace the clutch cable and we had to tighten it very far inside the firewall all was well for about 5 minutes then it went back to normal for the rest of the trip home. So this morning I adjusted it even further, so that now there is no thread left to tighten pretty much. It drove perfectly to start, and then bagn to deteriorate (albeit not as much as yesterday) That is the only symptom. It does not slip or an anything, it will go into gear perfectly as long as the friction point is not at the floor. Is my cluth gone? I wouldn't want to replace it if it is ok..pressure plate? I have no idea... Advice would be great |
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tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
By the sounds of it your pedal box is letting go.
A new revised one is available from ford, but IMO it still needs reinforcement before you fit it. Was the cable stuffed? or was it still easy to move by hand? Bad cables will hurt the pedal box. |
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One Drone |
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Best way to check is to pull the gear box out. Cheapest way to do it, because if it isn't the clutch, now you know how much you've got to go and all you have to do is put it together again. You don't want to get stuck on the road somewhere trying to drive home with no clutch. Trust me, it sucks. If the clutch gets down the the rivets, you'll get a metal on metal grinding sound as well.
_________________ There are 10 types of people in this world. |
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northerlythechamp |
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pedal box letting go?
i hope not.. but maybe it is the case.. I badly bent the clutch pedal about 4 months ago and had it welded back up with an extra steel bar as reinforcement.. but the thing is that if drove fine until now and i haven't unleashed any hot fury on the car since.. The cable wasn't in tip top condition but then again it wasn't absolutely shagged. easy to remove by hand. there is no metal grinding sound at all. really it is just a low clutch point. so if i could reduce it to two options would I be in the right ball park? 1. because the clutch cable is adjusted to its tits then the clutch/pressure plate is on its way out and needs replacing or 2. the pedal box is not doing its job and that is why I have to push it so far down to get into gear. And assuming that this is the case then there is actually no problem at all with the clutch and I just have to tighten the cable so far to rectify the misaligned pedal box thanks for the advice |
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BenJ |
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Hmmm, looking at the pedal box when putting in the clutch cable, it looked like a pretty messy weld job. It is feasible that there is an issue with the clutch pedal placement.
In reality it could well be a combination of both a worn pressure plate, and a not perfectly positioned clutch pedal. I would suggest you visit Joe at CMS to get his opinion, as he has a lot of experience to draw from. Cheers BenJ
_________________ BenJ's EB T5 DOHC Ghia Wagon - Current Ride |
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burnoutxr6 |
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I had a similar problem with my old xg xr6 i replaced the clutch then 2 days later the clutch cable snaped it was the cable all along i would give the cable a good going over before you get caried away pulling the gearbox out.
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GASSA |
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Mate
I would start from scratch 1 check the inner clutch cable see if it is frayed or damaged 2 take off the dust boot at the bellhousing check the fork see if it is damaged or came of the mounting ball 3 check the pin on the clutch pedal see if it is bent 4 check the dash panel for cracks where the clutch cable goes thru. 5 Adjust the cable cable to spec. 15mm between adjusting nut and tube in dash. Check clutch operation if you can not select gears your pressure plate has most likely collapsed good luck gassa
_________________ When the clutch drops the bull s**t stops!!!!! |
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fiend |
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northerlythechamp wrote: i am having a bit of trouble deciding if i need to replace my clutch. BenJ helped me replace the clutch cable and we had to tighten it very far inside the firewall all was well for about 5 minutes then it went back to normal for the rest of the trip home. Uhm - dude... WHAT EXACTLY IS "NORMAL"? I've reread this post three times and cannot figure out what your actual symptoms are. You say "that is the only symptom - It does not slip or anything - It will go into gear perfectly" etc etc and then ask if you need a new clutch. WHAT SYMPTOM?! What, exactly, is beginning to deteriorate as you drive it? |
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northerlythechamp |
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re normal, i mean that the operation of the clutch/pedal/changing gears etc is as it should be. Take it as 'feels as though everything is fine'. It is hard to describe in words but that is the best I can do. Normal in that it drives without problem - gears change easily without crunching because the friction point of the clutch pedal is sufficiently high
re symptom: that is, it is ABnormal. That is, the friction point of the clutch pedal is so low that the clutch at times cannot fully engage hence a crunch when changing gears. gassa, thanks for the pointers 1. new cable perfect working order 2. is cool 3. unknown cant inspect myself 4. will check when get home 5. will measure when get home thanks |
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northerlythechamp |
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i have pretty much come to the conclusion that it is the pedal box.
Maybe over time the metal has bent since it was not completely re-enforced. At the moment I am getting by by using the tightest setting on the clutch cable, but i think that the only only way to rectify the problem is to replace the pedal box all together. does anyone make a re-enforced box? how much should I be paying for one without getting ripped off at the wreckers? Do I really have to remove the dash to fit it or can I just remove the front driver seat to give greater manouvrability when i'm down there? EA ones do not fit? (i recall reading this somewhere) - which one to purchase (to fit 4.0 EF sedan) thanks |
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FLASH |
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I had a similar problem with the clutch im my EB. The "bite" point was just up from the floor, it happened all of a sudden. I went through and looked at all the normal spots for the issue,
pedal box.. nope fine. Firewall cracked... nope fine. I was thinking maybe a pressure plate spring had colapsed. Got a friend to pump the pedal whilst i was under the car and BINGO! It was the dampening rubber that is on the end of the outer cable where it goes into the bell housing. When the clutch was being pushed in it was crushing up (too much), hence, shortening the pedal stroke at the other end. I just took the rubber out and made up a steel bush to go in there and replace it. All is now well Maybe something to look at.
_________________ FALCAHOLIC |
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fiend |
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Here is a post showing exactly that - It is termed a BUTLER JOINT...
post978736.html?hilit=butler%20joint#p978736 Uhm --- That is a good bit of advice FLASH. Get under the car and get someone to "drive" it. I sat in the pit and got Butler to drive backwards and forwards, fast, slow, clutch release slow, dump clutch and all that kind of thing to find where a knocking noise was coming from. Worked well, had it sussed out in minutes (which is less than the amount of time it has taken me to pick my words through this early morning message...) |
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FLASH |
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fiend wrote: Here is a post showing exactly that - It is termed a BUTLER JOINT... post978736.html?hilit=butler%20joint#p978736 Uhm --- That is a good bit of advice FLASH. Get under the car and get someone to "drive" it. I sat in the pit and got Butler to drive backwards and forwards, fast, slow, clutch release slow, dump clutch and all that kind of thing to find where a knocking noise was coming from. Worked well, had it sussed out in minutes (which is less than the amount of time it has taken me to pick my words through this early morning message...) Yeah mine is not quite as "engineered" as the "bulter joint" but thats the idea.
_________________ FALCAHOLIC |
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BenJ |
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I suggest you go and see Joe at CMS and get his opinion on it.
As we have installed a new cable, we know it can't be that, so one of the other components must be at fault. BenJ
_________________ BenJ's EB T5 DOHC Ghia Wagon - Current Ride |
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TROYMAN |
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im thinking the clutch/thrust bearing throw out arm is bending or cracked??
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