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Clutch Throw out bearing replacement Question 

 

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 Post subject: Clutch Throw out bearing replacement Question
Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 7:31 pm 
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My throw out bearing is on the way out, is it possible to replace this without removing the bellhousing on a T5?
Also can I repack its secondhand replacment?

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:16 pm 
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no you can not repack them thay are a sealedunit it would be better to take the bellhouseing off as you can maake shore it is in propaly
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:21 pm 
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Yeah, bellhousing can stay on, so you'll miss the fun of removing and fitting the top mounting bolts. It's held onto the fork by a wire circlip - ensure the fork lugs line up.
Since you've only done the conversion recently, did you use a 2nd hand bearing??
Stick with a new bearing, you won't repack the old one.
Refer your shop manual for greasing locations, etc.

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 8:37 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Yeah, bellhousing can stay on, so you'll miss the fun of removing and fitting the top mounting bolts. It's held onto the fork by a wire circlip - ensure the fork lugs line up.
Since you've only done the conversion recently, did you use a 2nd hand bearing??
Stick with a new bearing, you won't repack the old one.
Refer your shop manual for greasing locations, etc.

Thanks Snap, I used the clutch from the T5 kit but used the bearing that came with the AU bellhousing from the wrecker. They must have steam cleaned it and removed the grease. I want to install the original bearing as the clutch has a bit to go before it needs replacing. The original is dry as well and looks easy to grease. Your thoughts?

P.S> Its not the top bolts its the dam starter motor, you have BBM yet?.

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 9:27 pm 
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id spend a few extra backs and buy a new genuine bearing, peace of mind!

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:19 pm 
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Yeah defianltly go genuine, not cheap tho, about $60.00..

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:26 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Thanks Snap, I used the clutch from the T5 kit but used the bearing that came with the AU bellhousing from the wrecker. They must have steam cleaned it and removed the grease. I want to install the original bearing as the clutch has a bit to go before it needs replacing. The original is dry as well and looks easy to grease. Your thoughts??
NP Tony - go a new one, as a 2nd hand one may have bearing roughness which repacking won't fix. Falcons run the TO bearing always touching the pressure plate, so a good bearing is essential. A seized bearing can cause plenty damage.
With the bellhousing in situ, it'll be fiddly and not a lot of space to play with, but can be done - cable needs to be disconnected, if you have issues, undo all the bellhousing bolts but leave the top ones in so you can lift the bellhousing for more space.

{USERNAME} wrote:
P.S> Its not the top bolts its the dam starter motor, you have BBM yet?.
For starter motor, remove top bolt then bottom, install is bottom in first, then top one.
Yep, the XH has now a BBM, along with an EF cam to match ECU tune - noticeable difference that's for sure. Just have to setup the LPG gear to suit.

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:30 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
Thanks Snap, I used the clutch from the T5 kit but used the bearing that came with the AU bellhousing from the wrecker. They must have steam cleaned it and removed the grease. I want to install the original bearing as the clutch has a bit to go before it needs replacing. The original is dry as well and looks easy to grease. Your thoughts??
NP Tony - go a new one, as a 2nd hand one may have bearing roughness which repacking won't fix. Falcons run the TO bearing always touching the pressure plate, so a good bearing is essential. A seized bearing can cause plenty damage.
With the bellhousing in situ, it'll be fiddly and not a lot of space to play with, but can be done - cable needs to be disconnected, if you have issues, undo all the bellhousing bolts but leave the top ones in so you can lift the bellhousing for more space.

{USERNAME} wrote:
P.S> Its not the top bolts its the dam starter motor, you have BBM yet?.
For starter motor, remove top bolt then bottom, install is bottom in first, then top one.
Yep, the XH has now a BBM, along with an EF cam to match ECU tune - noticeable difference that's for sure. Just have to setup the LPG gear to suit.
If I am going that far then I will throw a new clutch kit in. Just being a tight a*** and trying to get my monies worth out of the existing clutch.

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:39 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
If I am going that far then I will throw a new clutch kit in. Just being a tight a*** and trying to get my monies worth out of the existing clutch.
Plus machine the flywheel, new pilot bearing, rear main seal and rear welch plug.
Best to do all of that when it's easy to get to, as you don't get the opportunity very often.

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2007 10:45 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
{USERNAME} wrote:
If I am going that far then I will throw a new clutch kit in. Just being a tight a*** and trying to get my monies worth out of the existing clutch.
Plus machine the flywheel, new pilot bearing, rear main seal and rear welch plug.
Best to do all of that when it's easy to get to, as you don't get the opportunity very often.
Rear main and crank bearing done during the install, Flywheel was good but I will get it done.

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2007 5:45 pm 
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{USERNAME} wrote:
Yeah, bellhousing can stay on, so you'll miss the fun of removing and fitting the top mounting bolts. It's held onto the fork by a wire circlip - ensure the fork lugs line up.
Since you've only done the conversion recently, did you use a 2nd hand bearing??
Stick with a new bearing, you won't repack the old one.
Refer your shop manual for greasing locations, etc.
I repacked the original throwout bearing and it is smooth (gregories manual say grease them prior to install) I then did some testing on its replacement using an old bellhousing and fork. I can't see how I can do it without removing the belhousing. The fork can't come out without loosening its retaining bolt and there does not seem to be enough room to manouver the bearing past the fork and out the input shaft hole. might have to save my pennies for a new kit, I can get an exedy for $279.

 

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,======o00o
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