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glenneaux |
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posted this on AFF and i dont even think a tumbleweed saw it :p
What's involved when someone converts a 4speed auto BA to manual (5speed for simplicities sake)... the obvious physical changes, box, flywheel clutch, blah blah what happens with the wiring/ECU side? current wiring left intact and adapters? possible to trick it all e-series stylez? can the program be changed in the ecu for it? |
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twase |
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glenneaux wrote: posted this on AFF and i dont even think a tumbleweed saw it :p Definately need a tailshaft from the manual version, interior trims and seal from the manual, ECU trick should work plus the Manual pedal box clutch master and lines.
What's involved when someone converts a 4speed auto BA to manual (5speed for simplicities sake)... the obvious physical changes, box, flywheel clutch, blah blah what happens with the wiring/ECU side? current wiring left intact and adapters? possible to trick it all e-series stylez? can the program be changed in the ecu for it?
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
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Nicko |
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to be honest i think you need to change the loom and ecu
And then ford will have to do a reset on it with the wds
_________________ Nicko |
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67RCE |
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Loom doesnt need changing, the ECU has to be changed (from Auto to Manual) and Ford has to do a WDS reset. Clutch pedal, Hydraulic Clutch Master cylinder and hydarulic line is all IIRC, i'll ask my housemate later, he's done it
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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MaTTeB |
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everyones pretty spot on..
You will need a manual wiring harness, unless you modify the wiring on the auto harness - i don't know how you'd go about it tho. ECU can be resistor tricked so i am told, but ford couldn't make mine work with the auto ecu, even after they told me they couldn't use the manual one.. In the end they figured out what ecu map would work and the manual ecu went back in. They still have to change the ecu map on the manual ecu in almost all cases. You'd be surprised how many different maps there are from BA to BA II.. You need the pedal box, slave cylinder and piping You need the gearbox, clutch, pressure plate - and you need the pressure plate compressed before it goes into the car (ford will do it for you if you dont have a bench press) You need to get the old ecu out with a little skill, then get actual bolts to put the new one in. You'll need the new gearstick surround, gearstick neck, and the head. You will need a new tailshaft, the auto is about 100mm longer than the manual, i got mine modified. Don't forget a spigot bearing either.. my conversion came with everything except the spigot bearing. I recommend getting a full conversion, you'll find it alot harder to find all the parts seperate. You only put yourself up for more hassles later on. Do it right from the start. hope this helps.. Happy Motoring
_________________ Wrecking BA lots of parts available Pictures and prices here |
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67RCE |
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OK, Ausman can confirm this, but IIRC the BA ECU cannot have the resistor trick done to work, the ECU must be changed, it's a simple conversion, and Ausman can give more details on this have done it on Ken's BA XT
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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